Evaporative A/C

[All U Get]

What we have discussed so far only needs to be simply modified such that WHEN ANCHORED for the evening, all one might want to do is to toss a hose overboard and pump cold water up from the bottom to run through the heat exchanger.

I'd even go so far as adding a quick garden hose connect to a through-hull in the transon. When in use it would reduce some of the head and then capped when sailing. When are we going on "Shark Tank"?
All U Get

 

[DanM]

shipwreck66,

Your maths seems logical to me, but after installing a battery monitor this year I did find a few things in my boat that didn't quite run the way I calculated them, so it's hard to say exactly what is going on without one.

A group 31 battery is somewhere in the neighborhood of 110a/h though, so in theory you wouldn't run to pull more than about 55a/h out of it on a regular basis or will dramatically shorten it's life. Of course there is some give and take depending on battery type, but this thread is about the evaporative A/C so I don't want to hi-jack it.

The ideas are very interesting though, I'm looking forward to the results!

DanM.

 

[shipwreck66]

Don't worry Dan, it's all about power here. If I had a fancy inverter I could run the window unit on a series of Group 31's, already tried using a regular one, unit kicked on, kicked off, kicked on etc. This is a weekend toy so if I ruin the battery, no real harm done, it is not connected to the two house batteries, those I leave alone. Cruisair has a neat little boat a/c unit designed to run off a series of 12v and comes with a continuous sine wave inverter, for around $2900, and only puts out 3500btu of cooling, and still requires the two thru hull water lines. In this Texas weather 5000btu is minimum.