Espar Heater Installation

[druid]

Hi Folks

I just go a new-to-me Ontario 32 and after last weekend, some form of heat apart from the "solid-fuel heater" went from "might do" to "MUST do" I thought I'd give a diesel furnace another try. I'm looking at installation possibililties, so was wondering what other people did. (I'm talking forced-air here - not interested in coolant heaters)

1. Intake air: do you route it from inside the cabin? Outside? Just suck it from wherever you've mounted the unit?

2. Outlet(s): How many? Where? How long is your ducting?

3. Fuel inlet: do you run a separate intake standpipe in the main fuel tank? Tee off the engine or return lines? Have a separate "day-tank"? (and if so, how do you fill it?)

And of course comments on how you feel your installation is working, what you'd do if you were to do it over again, etc.

And if there are any other Ontario 32 owners out there, I'd LOVE to hear from you! (especially since where I ran the duct on my Catalina 36 is totally filled up with water-tanks on the Ontario 32!)

druid

 

[Bosman]

My setup is different, as the heater is propane as opposed diesel, not too mention different boat. Besides that, both systems are forced air.
1) My heater was installed in a way that allows air to be drawn from the outside or inside. Inside re-circulation increases interior temperature when outside temperature drops below +5C. This is done by mechanical means of shutters on air intakes.
2) I have three outlets: fore cabin, main cabin and rear cabin. There is also ambient heating ducts going into the head (perfect for drying clothes in the head overnight). All three outlets have adjustable shutter to equalise temperature inside the boat. Ducting wise - I cannot answer as system was installed by factory authorised installer, but main duct runs from beneath the cockpit to just after the wall separating fore cabin. About 24 feet total length.
3) Fuel inlet - as I mentioned, mine system runs on propane hence the answer would be N/A

Would I do it again - absolutely. Heating is fantastic and makes the sailing season so much longer (assuming one does sleep on the boat frequently). Would I switch to diesel? Depends on how new system work. I have been on a couple of boats with Webasto diesel forced air diesel heaters and found them quite noise. Perhaps with additional sound insulation this would be different.

 

[Maine Sail]

1. Intake air: do you route it from inside the cabin? Outside? Just suck it from wherever you've mounted the unit?

Yes, most definitely. It helps keep the cabin drier, reduces condensation and makes the heater work less hard as the air passing across the HX is warmer than taking it from a -10C lazarette. The return air is best located low in the boat to return the colder air down near the floor to the furnace..

2. Outlet(s): How many? Where? How long is your ducting?

On a boat your size 1 duct can work but two are better. Often times getting this duct work into the head or v-berth is a futile efforts but some 12V fans like a Caframo Bora work well to circulate the warm cabin air. When you branch off for the furthest outlet it is often best to go up one size in duct or use an adjustable vent outlet on the first one to "balance" the output of both outlets... By dampening down the first outlet you can balance the second one that is further away.

3. Fuel inlet: do you run a separate intake standpipe in the main fuel tank? Tee off the engine or return lines? Have a separate "day-tank"? (and if so, how do you fill it?).

I tap into the tank and give the heater it's own feed.. You can do a day tank but with the Espar or Webasto it is not necessary. Installing the fuel metering pump properly is critical and it needs a filter..

And of course comments on how you feel your installation is working, what you'd do if you were to do it over again, etc.

And if there are any other Ontario 32 owners out there, I'd LOVE to hear from you! (especially since where I ran the duct on my Catalina 36 is totally filled up with water-tanks on the Ontario 32!)

druid

Exhaust outlet should be on the stern and have the correct angle to prevent water from sitting in the exhaust outlet.. Often times this means a custom SS fitting as the Espar and Webasto "factory" offerings usually lack the correct angles for many transoms.

Insulate the feed duct right up to the first vent and if you can, all of it...

Insulate the heck out of the exhaust hose. Multiple layers of fiberglass dry exhaust wrap works well. The exhaust outlets get very hot. If the run to the transom is long you can substitute SS tube like used for dodgers & bimini's. Due to the smooth walled interior you can go slightly longer in distance than you can with the flexible SS. I come out of the heater with the SS flex pipe and go to smooth wall SS. I then convert back to flexible at the transom fitting.

Be sure the combustion air intake is also properly angled so water does not sit in it...

Install your heater so you have access to it for servicing. A removable "shelf" works great for servicing. Servicing them on the boat is usually laughable at best so an easily removed unit is key. You can also "isolate" the shelf with some rubber dampener/isolators and reduce hull transmitted noise.

 

[Les]

Hello Pender Harbor druid--I'm your neighbor to the southeast...

I've had ten new boats and eight heating devices. The Webasto and Espar seem to me the best for boat use. I agree with everything Main Sail has written for installation. In the past few years Webasto offers their entire furnace line in a box for the DIY person. I suspect Espar does as well but I haven't seen it yet. The middle sized Webasto would probably be best for your size boat.

I am now on my fourth year with a Webasto forced air furnace in a Hunter 27 and my dealer says it doesn't need any maintenance--it is running well for the past four years. I have three openings, one in the aft cabin, one in the head and one in the main cabin. I tend to operate the furnace about three times a week during the winter at the dock.

I highly recommend a muffler for any type forced air furnace so that when operated at the dock your neighbors will not be disturbed otherwise that is a loud whooshing sound. Webasto says they've eliminated this but I put a muffler on anyway. It's very quiet now in the cockpit.

I agree with Main Sail for tapping into the main fuel supply line. Add a small Fuel Filter when you do.

Sure Marine in Seattle are the experts in Marine Heating--I don't know who is in Vancouver.

Agreed you can't live in the northwest without having a furnace. Only way to go. Good luck.

 

[druid]

Thanks for all the info, guys!

How many heaters have I had.... let's see... kerosene Force 10, kerosene portable, Volvo forced-air, Dickenson diesel, Dickenson propane, Dickenson solid fuel... I think that's all, not counting the electric ones.

The reason I'm asking about the ducting is that the last time I installed a furnace (Volvo - pile of crap - long story) I ran a long duct with two outlets: one in the main cabin and one in the forepeak. If I opened both, there was barely a dribble of sorta-warm air out of them. I figured most of the heating was from the duct itself. I noticed a lot of people had the outlet on the rear bulkhead, using only maybe 5 ft of duct, and the hot air blasted out.

I think I'm going to need a day-tank simply because my main tank is only 60 litres and I want it all for the engine. Also, if I use a jerry-can type of day-tank, it can double as a reserve for the engine.

SOME form of heating is certainly required, but I tore out the last forced-air furnace partly because it's not something you can warm up on immediately after spending the day in the cold cockpit like you can with a bulkhead heater. But... bulkhead heaters are dirty and smelly, no matter how careful you are.

So - next step is to see how I can route the duct in the cabin...

druid