I've developed a fresh water leak and am accumulating water in my normally dry bilge. I know it is fresh water because I bought a salization gauge for fish tanks (very handy) at my local pet store. I've eliminated the chain plates, water tank (drained), and hot water heater as sources. The ice box drain is plugged, and not in use anyway. Same with the shower. I've stripped the lockers looking for evidence, and can find none. Seems like it has to be a small leak in the hull/deck joint. I'm thinking about cleaning the joint with a power washer (with all of our Northwest rain, it quickly turns a little green this time of year), and using a syringe to calk a fine line of expoxy into the narrow gap between the two rail and the deck. Anybody think of a reason why this wouldn't be a good idea?
Epoxy the Hull/Deck Joint to Stop a Leak?
- Thread starter Dean Strong
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Dean, a leak in the deck joint is possible...
but unlikely considering the way Hunter seals this joint. I'm assuming you have the traditional extruded aluminum toe rail, I would first torque all the toe rail bolts. They tend to loosen over time. Another fresh water source would be at the compression post, push pit or pull pit rail mounts, hand rail mounts, dodger, bimini, etc. I have a fresh water leak coming from an aft head fitting that I can only get to if I remove my two 8D house bank batteries. Your fresh water tank could have leak, or your hot water tank... The best way that I have found to determine whether it is fresh or salt water is the tast test. Works every time
. Terry
but unlikely considering the way Hunter seals this joint. I'm assuming you have the traditional extruded aluminum toe rail, I would first torque all the toe rail bolts. They tend to loosen over time. Another fresh water source would be at the compression post, push pit or pull pit rail mounts, hand rail mounts, dodger, bimini, etc. I have a fresh water leak coming from an aft head fitting that I can only get to if I remove my two 8D house bank batteries. Your fresh water tank could have leak, or your hot water tank... The best way that I have found to determine whether it is fresh or salt water is the tast test. Works every time
. TerryFresh Water In The Bilge
Some time ago I started finding fresh water in the bilge of my 30T (1991) and spent months trying to locate its source. Finally discovered a malfunctioning pressure release valve on the hot water tank. I have a hose from the valve running into the bilge. When I put a plastic bottle on the hose end I discovered that when the engine heated the tank the valve was leaking fresh water. This may not be the source of your fresh water but it is worth checking. Incidentally, did you ever install engine water temp and oil pressure gauges using the material I sent a couple of years ago?
Some time ago I started finding fresh water in the bilge of my 30T (1991) and spent months trying to locate its source. Finally discovered a malfunctioning pressure release valve on the hot water tank. I have a hose from the valve running into the bilge. When I put a plastic bottle on the hose end I discovered that when the engine heated the tank the valve was leaking fresh water. This may not be the source of your fresh water but it is worth checking. Incidentally, did you ever install engine water temp and oil pressure gauges using the material I sent a couple of years ago?
Engine water temp and Oil press gauges
i also have a 1991 Hunter 30, and the lack of Oil presuure and water temperature gauges is frightening. I am considering to relocate exhaust from below water line to above waterline, so at least I can do a visual that the water is flowing out of the exhaust - any thoughts and comments about that? Roy - can you please give me more info on insalling those gauges ?
i also have a 1991 Hunter 30, and the lack of Oil presuure and water temperature gauges is frightening. I am considering to relocate exhaust from below water line to above waterline, so at least I can do a visual that the water is flowing out of the exhaust - any thoughts and comments about that? Roy - can you please give me more info on insalling those gauges ?
Response To Andre
You should have received email from me today. As soon as you reply I will mail the material.
You should have received email from me today. As soon as you reply I will mail the material.
from wet to bone dry
I had an aggrevating fresh water leak. Kept getting water in the bilge after a rain. Turned out to be from the steering quadrant cover. The access port caused the core in the cover to water log. The water then migrated through the screws that hold the cover in between the two aft cockpit seats. The water then went into the bottom of the lazarette(sp?) It wouldn't built up there since it would drain through to the lumber holes to the bilge. Since I fixed the cover my bilge needs to be vacuumed to get the dust out! -Doug
I had an aggrevating fresh water leak. Kept getting water in the bilge after a rain. Turned out to be from the steering quadrant cover. The access port caused the core in the cover to water log. The water then migrated through the screws that hold the cover in between the two aft cockpit seats. The water then went into the bottom of the lazarette(sp?) It wouldn't built up there since it would drain through to the lumber holes to the bilge. Since I fixed the cover my bilge needs to be vacuumed to get the dust out! -Doug
Do what the factory does - leakcheck
Close all the ports, duct tape the dorade vents and put the hatch boards in except one, Fabricate a board from cardboard and put a four inch hole in it. In the hole duct in the exhaust from a shop vac or use a leaf blower. Now walk around the top side and cockpit with a squirt bottle filled with soap water. Wet everything and the bubbles will show you leaks. You only need a few pounds of positive pressure in there trying to escape. I got the idea from a Hunter factory rep and successfully tried (several times, it's a Hunter).
Close all the ports, duct tape the dorade vents and put the hatch boards in except one, Fabricate a board from cardboard and put a four inch hole in it. In the hole duct in the exhaust from a shop vac or use a leaf blower. Now walk around the top side and cockpit with a squirt bottle filled with soap water. Wet everything and the bubbles will show you leaks. You only need a few pounds of positive pressure in there trying to escape. I got the idea from a Hunter factory rep and successfully tried (several times, it's a Hunter).
Find it qiuck!
Last yearI had a leak from up forward after a rain. I wanted to make sure I found it and called in 2 fiberglass repair crews to look at it. Seems the forward,through deck fairlead for the roller reefing line was not bedded properly. With a little "tapping' they found the water had travelled 3 feet down the deck core! The estimates went from $2800 to $3500 to rip out the rot and replace! Merry Christmas. I haven't fixed it yet, but needless to say, I rebedded everthing!
Last yearI had a leak from up forward after a rain. I wanted to make sure I found it and called in 2 fiberglass repair crews to look at it. Seems the forward,through deck fairlead for the roller reefing line was not bedded properly. With a little "tapping' they found the water had travelled 3 feet down the deck core! The estimates went from $2800 to $3500 to rip out the rot and replace! Merry Christmas. I haven't fixed it yet, but needless to say, I rebedded everthing!
Gotta hand it to Daryl
This forum continues to amaze me! After five years I have found solutions to most every problem, but never one as creative as Daryl's (thanks!). And here I thought the chances of finding this leak were minute at best. If it doesn't rain (or snow) this weekend, I'll be trying this!
This forum continues to amaze me! After five years I have found solutions to most every problem, but never one as creative as Daryl's (thanks!). And here I thought the chances of finding this leak were minute at best. If it doesn't rain (or snow) this weekend, I'll be trying this!
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