I am replacing a hatch and plan to fill and redrill the screw holes. The expoxy stick was recommended. It seems easy and convenient for a relatively small job. Anyone used this stuff? Comments? Andy "Baroque"
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Marine Tex
I use Marine Tex. Mix two parts & apply. Worked for me. I'm afraid of anything that doesn't need to be mixed with a catalysthardner when it comes to repairing fiberglass. My two cents.
I use Marine Tex. Mix two parts & apply. Worked for me. I'm afraid of anything that doesn't need to be mixed with a catalysthardner when it comes to repairing fiberglass. My two cents.
Epoxy sticks are
a two part epoxy just like Marinetex is. The second "part" is not a catalyst. It is a reagent. I guess you could call that a hardener, though.
a two part epoxy just like Marinetex is. The second "part" is not a catalyst. It is a reagent. I guess you could call that a hardener, though.
Marinetex in screw holes
I second the motion on Marinetex; as it has the advantage of being more fluid to fill every minute void and seal out water. I also used it to seal off the plywood substrate around the edges of hatch openings when I replaced and re-bedded my hatches. Again, it will keep water out of the core area; it can be troweled to a vertical surface and shaped to inside an inside corner radius.
I second the motion on Marinetex; as it has the advantage of being more fluid to fill every minute void and seal out water. I also used it to seal off the plywood substrate around the edges of hatch openings when I replaced and re-bedded my hatches. Again, it will keep water out of the core area; it can be troweled to a vertical surface and shaped to inside an inside corner radius.
'screwing' screws
1. I DON’T believe in screws on a boat, they NEVER hold for long. Instead I recommend nuts, bolts, & backers etc. However, if you must use screws ... 2. I suggest you undercut the old holes, removing any coring between the skins (if present). Then seal with epoxy, then fill with thickened epoxy. Then drill pilot holes c/w countersink*, apply adhesive sealant (to frame pattern), then install hatch & and insert screws (wetted /w epoxy). Use only 'moderate' torque on screws, so you don't extrude out all the sealant. Pilot hole sizes: #6 screw = 7/64" drill c/w 5/16" countersink #8 screw = 1/8" drill c/w 3/8" countersink #10 screw = 9/64" drill c/w 5/16" countersink #12 screw = 5/32" drill c/w 7/16" countersink FWIW, Gord May
1. I DON’T believe in screws on a boat, they NEVER hold for long. Instead I recommend nuts, bolts, & backers etc. However, if you must use screws ... 2. I suggest you undercut the old holes, removing any coring between the skins (if present). Then seal with epoxy, then fill with thickened epoxy. Then drill pilot holes c/w countersink*, apply adhesive sealant (to frame pattern), then install hatch & and insert screws (wetted /w epoxy). Use only 'moderate' torque on screws, so you don't extrude out all the sealant. Pilot hole sizes: #6 screw = 7/64" drill c/w 5/16" countersink #8 screw = 1/8" drill c/w 3/8" countersink #10 screw = 9/64" drill c/w 5/16" countersink #12 screw = 5/32" drill c/w 7/16" countersink FWIW, Gord May
Like it or not, we have to deal with screws
While Gord may be right in theory about through-bolting being the best method, most of us own production fiberglass boats where vast amounts of the trim pieces are held in place with wood screws and it could take a very long time to convert them--and not all of the work could be hidden or made less unattractive (unless you like the "Frankenboat" look). I've used the putty epoxy to tighten up screw holes and have found it to be an excellent method, much less messy than mixing up liquid epoxy (which has the habit of falling to the floor when you try to apply it on the ceiling!). Knead a small piece for a while and wrap a little of it around the base of the screw; it will fill in the space as you tightent. 3M 5200 adhesive caulk also works as a tightener for some deck screws such as snaps when you want them water-tight.
While Gord may be right in theory about through-bolting being the best method, most of us own production fiberglass boats where vast amounts of the trim pieces are held in place with wood screws and it could take a very long time to convert them--and not all of the work could be hidden or made less unattractive (unless you like the "Frankenboat" look). I've used the putty epoxy to tighten up screw holes and have found it to be an excellent method, much less messy than mixing up liquid epoxy (which has the habit of falling to the floor when you try to apply it on the ceiling!). Knead a small piece for a while and wrap a little of it around the base of the screw; it will fill in the space as you tightent. 3M 5200 adhesive caulk also works as a tightener for some deck screws such as snaps when you want them water-tight.
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