Engineeds a good clean

[jorgefife]

It is time to give a good clean to my Yanmar on my boat.
It is oily, rustyin some spots, and generally ugly.
I am thinking of sprayng it and then wipe it dry and let all the muck run into the pan, then clean that up also
Any recommendations on what spray to use?
I am back!

 

[rardiH36]

Jorge:

This stuff will definitely cut through the grease and gunk build-up. And water soluble. I've been using it for years. Try by diluting with H2O 50/50. Put in any spray bottle you might have around. Be careful, it will lift paint and damage skin.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/cleani...degreaser-concentrate-62011.html#.UFaEdK7BUc0

 

[rardiH36]

Hey Jorge:

Talk about coincidence. One of SF's local stations has a consumer segment once a week or so. Today's topic was a Consumers' Report test of spray-on wheel cleaners for cars. The type that are supposed to be just spray-on then hose-off .... and all stuck on brake dust and road grime will be gone. Typical cost at Pep Boys type auto stores is $5-8 or so. Tests showed that yes they work, but a brush job is still needed to assist with mechanically breaking the dirt bond to the wheel.

The testers also went out and got a jug of Industrial Purple. They found it worked in the same league as the dedicated wheel cleaners. But for just pennies per application. The TV article didn't get into enough detail about what concentration of the Industrial Purple they used, ie if they diluted it or used it straight from the jug. As I mentioned in my first reply, the stuff is strong. Experiment with a diluted concentration first. From memory, something like 1 to 10 Purple to water is enough for most cleaning jobs. But for cutting through years of grease will have to be stronger.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Jorge-

After you get your engine spotlessly clean of grease and oil, and have removed all of the loose rust, you then need to treat the engine so it will look like new for many years.

I have used and can recommend a product called Por 15. It is used in the automotive restoration industry for coating frames and body parts as a rust preventive.

It is an one-part epoxy-type of stuff and there are two prep chemicals in the system. One is a degreaser (I would use it regardless of previous degreasings) and the other is a metal etch-type of primer. It produces a moderately thick black coating that is very resistant to seawater and moisture. You can leave it black or you can paint over it with the engine color of your choice.

I have had seawater pumps leak and deposit salt and seawater on my engine. The result was rusting and lifting of the original engine paint. A couple of years ago I bought this Por 15 product and after application I painted over it to match my engine color. Now, at least two years later, it is still perfect like the day I applied it.

It is a bit of work with the multiple steps, but IMHO it is worth the effort. The stuff has a shelf life, so you might want to buy the small can unless you have other metal projects to rust-proof.

 

[jorgefife]

Jorge-

After you get your engine spotlessly clean of grease and oil, and have removed all of the loose rust, you then need to treat the engine so it will look like new for many years.

I have used and can recommend a product called Por 15. It is used in the automotive restoration industry for coating frames and body parts as a rust preventive.

It is an one-part epoxy-type of stuff and there are two prep chemicals in the system. One is a degreaser (I would use it regardless of previous degreasings) and the other is a metal etch-type of primer. It produces a moderately thick black coating that is very resistant to seawater and moisture. You can leave it black or you can paint over it with the engine color of your choice.

I have had seawater pumps leak and deposit salt and seawater on my engine. The result was rusting and lifting of the original engine paint. A couple of years ago I bought this Por 15 product and after application I painted over it to match my engine color. Now, at least two years later, it is still perfect like the day I applied it.

It is a bit of work with the multiple steps, but IMHO it is worth the effort. The stuff has a shelf life, so you might want to buy the small can unless you have other metal projects to rust-proof.

Rich,

Thank you very much! I will be sure to use it, and also the one from Hardi
Sounds like a solution to a possible problem, not looking after the engine
Where do you buy that stuff?

 

[Rich Stidger]

Where do you buy that stuff?

Jorge,

I bought it at a auto supply that sells automotive paint and supplies to body shops. The degreaser component and the etch component cost about $10 each and the Por 15 itself was about $30. I bought the pint size- I don't remember if that was the smallest or if they had a half-pint. The cost difference between the sizes is not great so you might want to err on the larger size so you don't run out. Think about other uses- maybe metal railings on your home or a mower deck on your lawnmower.....

I painted a good deal of the rear section of my engine including the bell housing and the brackets to the engine mounts. A friend also painted a smaller area around the water pump on his generator (which had also been leaking) and we used about 4-5 ounces out of the pint.

 

[capejt]

Along the same lines

My old Yanmar could use a "facelift" as well, although I've been putting it off because of something I was taught a long time ago in high school auto shop. We were told to beware of an engine with a paint job because the owner was trying to hide something (oil leaks, etc.). I can understand that point of view, but I would rather see a clean rust free engine than a rusty greasy hulk. The other thing I was thinking is that with an engine as old as mine (1979), what could I be trying to hide? To me it seems like checking the ID of a older grey haired gentleman buying beer.
BTW, Thanks Rich, that stuff sound great!

 

[py26129]

I'll also heartily recommend POR15. I used it on my last boat's cast iron keel and it solved the annual rust cleanup once and for all. Sold the boat 6 years after doing the keel and it was still great.

Just make sure you follow the instructions to the letter re. prepping the surface and what temperatures to paint in. Also, wear gloves!! If you get it on your hands it will be there for two weeks. Don't ask.

Matt

 

[rardiH36]

.... We were told to beware of an engine with a paint job because the owner was trying to hide something (oil leaks, etc.). I can understand that point of view, but I would rather see a clean rust free engine than a rusty greasy hulk. ...

I occasionally peruse Craigslist San Francisco area out of curiosity to what boats are for sale. Recently is a 1983 38' Catalina for $35k asking. (By the pics and description seems to be a really super motivated seller... looks to good to be true. I would be tempted, but I like my existing boat enough and it's a Cherubini, would have to go through the hassle of selling it, like this forum a lot, etc, etc, etc ....)

Anyway, from the craigslist url for the boat, here is a pic of the engine as it looks now. Not only is it clean and gold, but the engine compartment looks spotless.

 

[Steve Dion]

I would try something like Simple Green. Inexpensive and easy on the environment.

 

[David W]

I'll also heartily recommend POR15. I used it on my last boat's cast iron keel and it solved the annual rust cleanup once and for all. Sold the boat 6 years after doing the keel and it was still great.

Just make sure you follow the instructions to the letter re. prepping the surface and what temperatures to paint in. Also, wear gloves!! If you get it on your hands it will be there for two weeks. Don't ask.

Matt

I've used this product in both an automotive setting and on our Yanmar 2QM15 engine. Great results.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_extend/overview/Loctite-Extend-Rust-Neutralizer.htm