Engine Stop Cable

[lehighsail]

Its one thing after another. Water system is commissioned and working and now its the engine stop cable. I traced the cable from the engine to the transom shut off knob. Part of the path is accessable thru the back wall of the aft cabin in my Hunter 290. The center removable verticle panel of the back wall slips behind the fiberglass "ceiling" and I can't get it out after I release the clips. So, I can't get the old cable out or thread the new one in. Any suggestions on how this is removed? I also am having problems locating a replacement cable that is 156 inches long and has the Torrsen has a 10ft long and a 13.9 inch long one on theri website but nothing 13 ft long. Help.

 

[31seahorse]

Hello lehigh375,
I wish you luck on removing the old cable. I have no experience with your model of boat. RE: cable length - Long, gentle curves which are good for ease of movement of the cable "innerds" might easily use up any extra cable length.

 

[stevec22206]

I have found that most of these cables can be shortened. Just purchased one for our boat and while discussing this with the parts guy was told I could shorten it as needed. You might want to contact Torrsens to confirm this. Sorry can't help with your access issue.

 

[kenn]

Are you absolutely sure the entire engine stop cable needs to be replaced? What's the problem you're having with it?

It's been a while since I last worked on one, but they're usually thinner than the throttle and transmission control cables. They're more like bicycle brake cables. If the cable isn't crushed or corroded, maybe it just requires lubrication? Sometimes it's possible to withdraw the inner cable, clean and oil it, and re-insert it.

If you do have to replace the entire cable, and manage to get access, an extra 9 inches shouldn't be a problem. It's also fairly simple to cut 9" off of the outer jacket, if you remove and save all the end bits, and make a careful cut.

 

[DougM]

If you have to replace the entire cable, maybe you could attach the new cable to the end of the old one , pulling the new cable through while extracting the old. The only problem might be that the old cable is secured in in a couple of places .

 

[pogo2]

Fleet Pride

FleetPride Truck Supplies had a choke cable that did it for my Newport 30 universal engine, varying lengths, silicone sleeve and a nice protective jacket, very flexable, T handle, give them a call or on line.

 

[Steve Dion]

Teleflex/Morse make these cables and they are readily available from most marine stores.

On my Hunter 31 we relocated the stop cable down below. This keep the cable from rusting and provides a minor level of security when you are away from the boat if you leave it in the stop position.

 

[Benny17441]

When solving a problem I always like to look at all options. In your case if the cable cannot be removed it could be abandoned in place. You may route a new cable next to it connecting the ends to panel and engine. You could even choose to install the pull lever in an alternate location. Many have routed the cable to a cabinet in the galley to be close to the companionway but yet inside the cabin. They have done this to keep the cable out of the elements. If relocating you may leave the old cable in the panel to act as a dummy. By leaving the stop cable in the off position when closing the boat it can act as an anti-theft hidden cut off switch to prevent the engine from being started. The thief will not know the stop cable in the panel is a dummy and will likely not have the time to figure it out. I'm sure someone familiar with your boat may advise you on how to remove the old and route the new but it will not hurt to have options in your pocket.

 

[lehighsail]

The cable was frozen in the sleeve. When I tried to force it the cable actually broke in the knob. I was able to get the back wall of the aft cabin off and it exposed the full length of the cable in that area. It was secured with plastic ties in two or three places so pulling it thru would not have been possible. Before getting responses from a couple of suppliers I located a control cable fabricator in central Illinois. They made one with the pull knob on one end and the proper end on the other so it could be attached to the existing wing on the engine. It is a little heavier than my old one, made of stainless and works great! They made it and it arrived in a total of three days by USPS over the holiday weekend. Also, was about half the price that other suppliers estimated. Would definitely recommend them. On to the next project. Thanks everyone for the suggestions.