Engine removal

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May 2, 2008
254
S2 9.2C 1980 St. Leonard (Chesapeake Bay), MD
Does anyone have any experience or knowledge about removal of the engine or repowering a 9.2C?
 
Mar 29, 2008
187
s2 9.2C NJ
No, but may I ask what's wrong with it? You'd have to remove the side panel under the nav table and the fuel tank. Might have to remove the panel behind the stairs. After that it's all about muscle! What if you take the lag screws out of the engine mounts and slipped long 2 by 4s between the mounts and the stringers and lag the mounts to them. Then you could use the 2x4 as a stretcher and slide it forward then lift it by the ends of the 2x4s. Just brainstorming here, I might be insane...
 
May 2, 2008
254
S2 9.2C 1980 St. Leonard (Chesapeake Bay), MD
It is currently seized and I may have to remove it to rebuild or replace. Will the panel behind the steps come out without doing any cutting?
 
Mar 29, 2008
187
s2 9.2C NJ
I'll look. It should, but there are prob a lot of teak bungs you'll have to remove to get to the screws. Not an easy job.
 
Jan 17, 2009
54
2 9.2/C Rockford, MI
A fellow 9.2/C owner told me he repowered from a 2 cylinder to a 3 cylinder without removing the bulkhead below the companionway. He said he had to remove the accessories to squeeze it out of the pass thru.

I know it sounds like a pain, but you may also want to add some glass to the stringers the engine is mounted to. Also if you have an 18 gal tank this is the perfect time to upgrade to a 30 gal tank. (later 3 cyl 9.2s' came with 30 gal tanks).

Hell at that point you might as well soundproof the engine compartment too.

Good luck!
 
May 2, 2008
254
S2 9.2C 1980 St. Leonard (Chesapeake Bay), MD
I spent part of the day yesterday working on the engine. Using the starter to spin it for about 15 seconds (head is off) it will now turn using the hand crank. I changed the oil and filter and still see no signs of water in the oil. If it is there it is a very small amount. I will be taking the head to a machine shop for them to evaluate the possibility of welding. If that is not an option then I need to either find a used head (haven't found one yet), replace with a new head (over $2100.00 from Torrenson) or consider repowering (cost of motor alone is around $8000.00 not installed).
 
Mar 29, 2008
187
s2 9.2C NJ
How about used motors? Is the $8000 for a rebuilt or brand new. I would try anything before brand new. Before you decide the motor is now an anchor, how about if you spend a little $ to have a pro look at it and give you their opinion? If it does need to come out remember it's not rocket science to replace it, just label each wire and hose as they come off and take plenty of pics. Then it's just thinking and muscle to get it out and you can save money. Now's the time, in the off season, to do it.
 
May 2, 2008
254
S2 9.2C 1980 St. Leonard (Chesapeake Bay), MD
I have done some quick looking for a used or re-built 2QM15 and they don't seem to exist, at least not in this country. My problem (other than $$$) is how to physically remove and then insert something that size and weight. I think it would take some expertise with equipment to lift old out and new in. The 'expert' will hopefully look at the head tomorrow and tell me what he thinks.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Unbolt everything you can to reduce weight for sure. No head helps a lot. I'd try to slide it out somehow. Things are probaby really tight, but perhaps you can slip some 4 x 4's or even steel pipe or rod stock under it. Then just manhandle it to slide it out onto something like a furniture dolley with wheels on all four corners. I used one to move a cast iron stove that must have been 250lbs. If you can roll it through to your companionway you can pluck it out with the boom (use the main sheet for the mechanical advantage...it is probably 6:1) and set it on the dock or ground. Use a guide rope to control it once it is in the air.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
http://www.crackeliminator.com/

I found this site on line so I sent them one of your photos to see if they had an opinion. I hope you don't mind Gary. I am just hoping to help you out. I searched all over the internet and the ONLY place I found with a head was Torresens. I have purchased from them before and wouldn't hesitate a second to do so again. Did you give them a ring to talk to them about it? Maybe they will offer a holiday discount ;-)
 
May 2, 2008
254
S2 9.2C 1980 St. Leonard (Chesapeake Bay), MD
Bob, No, I don't mind - thank you! I have bought from Torresen before and like them, just not the price for the head! As for removal, I think that I could do that but getting a fully assembled engine back in could be a problem! As with everything right now, money is the biggest issue. Fortunately I have a few months of bad weather to figure it out. If I haven't gotten the boat running by the time spring comes then I will be in great distress!!!!
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
gary i found a three cylender yanmar in houston tx for about 6,800.00 dollars ....new 21 hp if you cant find or fix your head let me know and i will send you the source ...

good luck
woody
 
May 2, 2008
254
S2 9.2C 1980 St. Leonard (Chesapeake Bay), MD
Woody, thanks! I appreciate that you let me know. I have been looking at the Beta Marine and found a new one (16 hp) that I can get for $7000. If I need to spend that much money then I will spend it on something new. From what I have seen, the Beta looks like a good design.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
I haven't heard from the welder I contacted. What did your local guy say?
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
From my earlier post:

However, the marinized Kubota based Beta 13.5 hp or 16hp 2cyl really looks like an easy swap for the 2QM15...takes the Hurth ZF I already have...dipstick on the right...impeller swaps from the front...optional pump for oil changes built in. Therefore I could save an easy $5K if I did it myself and this engine (and perhaps other 2 cyl) would make it easier to do it myself. With the 16hp I could even bump hp by 10%. Currently with my 2QM15, which is 14hp, and the factory 2 blade Michigan wheel prop I can only hit 5.5 knots, about a knot shy of hull speed. Ideally the new engine would allow me to cruise at 6.5 knots at its specified cruising RPM.

I'd also by lying if I told you that I wouldn't look hard at Yanmar first though. The equivalent engine is the 14 hp 2YM15.

Vetus is a big marine supplier selling Vetus branded marinized mistubishi diesels. However, they seem to have abandoned the engine market, as I can't find a link to buy one or a local dealer on the internet.

Westerbeke is another strong contender. It is much better known that Beta, plus there is an 18hp 2 cylinder (20B) that sounds attractive. It is just a hair smaller than the 2QM15 (26L x 20H x 20W versus 27.6L x 18W x 22H for the 308lb 2QM15) and much lighter at 225 lbs. The 27 hp 30B is the same as the 20B barring an increase in length to 30 inches and weight to 274 lbs.

The beta, at 16 hp is a 10% improvement in hp over the 2QM15. If you are doing it yourself, in my opinion, if you are only going to do limited coastal cruising a like-for-like replacement like this is fine. I had my 2QM15 in the Cape Cod Canal running against a 3 knot current! (Captain read the wrong week on the tide chart). We got there. It just took more time. However, if you are planning to cruise extensively a bigger engine is probably necessary to get you to hull speed (6.5 knots) and a knot an hour isn't anything to sneeze at if you are on a long passage.

I'd be really tempted to shop for a price on that 2cyl 18 hp Westerbeke if I were you. That is a significant increase in hp (4hp) in a small package. The small package is a plus as your engine access probably isn't great. A new engine is definitely a plus at resale, but if someone is shopping the 9.2C hard the larger engine will be a big plus. Bayshore in Annapolis is a local dealer.
 
May 2, 2008
254
S2 9.2C 1980 St. Leonard (Chesapeake Bay), MD
Bob, I just took the head to the local guy. One of his employees said it didn't look good but the boss said he wants to pull the injector (it is rusted in) and take a better look. He said the area around the biggest part of the crack feels solid so he is hopeful but will let me know in a couple of days.
 
May 2, 2008
254
S2 9.2C 1980 St. Leonard (Chesapeake Bay), MD
I got word that the head is NOT repairable. The crack extended from the valve faces about an inch into the pre-combustion chamber. So now my options are 1) find a used head (almost impossible), 2) spend $2200 on new head for old engine, 3) spend $7000 on new freshwater cooled Beta Marine 16 hp......
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
sorry to hear about your head damage gary ........

you may want to gtart calling or e mail all the marinas you can find on line and ask for the mechnics shop ....some times they will have a take out in your size and may will be willling to sell it ....good thing about that would be is that you can get a lot of extra parts ....ei alt. starter ,water pump ect ...and a good used head for yours as well ...

just a thought ....and research is basically free in this internet age we live in

regaurds

woody
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
oh an btw look for southern marinas they usually dont have frozen motors due to the warm climate ....a good place to start would be around the houston texas area ...they had a lot of take out due to ivan last year

regards

woody
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Gary, Look in the classifieds. Someone has a used 16hp Yanmar for 2K. However, if you are planning to keep your boat for a while new is probably the way to go. The 9.2C holds its value very well and it won't be a bad investment. If you don't have a vacation home, you can probably finance it and write it off too. I saved $700 last year out of about $2500 in payments.

http://s2.sailboatowners.com/index....ce&page=show_ad&catid=19&adid=1462&Itemid=261
 
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