Engine Removal: C30 MKIII

May 7, 2011
281
C - 30 # 3573 Lake NormanNC formerly Bflo NY
George, thanks for the great idea!

I think I will make that whole front section hinged, including the top rail with the dinette table support, so that I can easily remove that whole section, including the factory access door for better access to the engine. I think I'll use "take apart" hinges at the bottom and barrel bolt latches on the inside at the top.

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|10918|2303361|2303371&id=21038

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|10918|2303361|2303367&id=20777

Thanks, Dean
Late on this thread, but see my enlarged engine/tranny/galley access and added storage in the vee... cutaways of the vee while I was progress of revarnishing...

Ken
 

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Oct 28, 2013
114
Catalina 30 1978 #980 Catalina 30 1978 #980 Mission beach, California
Great job! I can appreciate this after replacing my engine and transmission. Also cleaning the engine compartment up and re-gel coating was a nice touch. The only thing I did different, there are 2 of us putting in the engine. So we just picked it up and slid it down in to the compartment. Great post enjoyed looking at your pictures.


l thought that others on this forum might be interested in how I removed my engine from a 1995 Catalina 30 MKIII

I bought my C30 MKIII in April 2014. The engine had not been very well maintained. It was very dirty and rusty. One of the bolts on the steel adapter plate that holds the engine mounts was sheared off. I decided to pull the engine this winter, clean it up, fix the motor mount, replace all hoses, and paint the bilge.
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I had seen other posts on this forum about removing the engine. These posts showed removing the sink portion of the counter top and cabinet to allow removal of the engine. However, on the Mark III, there is a one-piece U-shaped molded counter top which is continuous from the peninsula, around the stove, and back over the ice box. I did not want to cut this counter-top, so instead I cut out a section of the dinette seat to allow me to lift the engine enough to slide it out frontwards toward the center of the cabin. I made an A-frame support out of 2x4’s and roller assembly to support the cable hoist so I could lift the motor and move it into the cabin. I had to remove the exhaust riser before I could lift and slide the motor forward.

This is where I cut the front of the dinette seat. I used a vibrating multi-tool to make the cut running the blade tight to a straight edge.

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Engine removed and sitting in the cabin. I worked on the engine in the cabin instead of removing it from the boat.
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Hoist roller assembly and A-frame.
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Engine cleaned and painted, new hoses and new (reconditioned) heat exchanger.
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I made new aluminum adapter plates (1/4" stock) to hold the motor mounts, replacing the old rusted steel adapter plates. The mounting studs in the stringers were tight and seemed OK.
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Bilge before and after:
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Putting the engine back in place.
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Oak strips for attaching the front of the dinette seat and dinette section screwed back in place.
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Completed, using teak strips to cover seams. I also moved the table support over a few inches to cover the seam on the starboard side.

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If I have to remove the engine again, I can remove the wood strips and unscrew the front section of the dinette seat. I also saved the A-frame supports and roller assembly.