Hello...I have a recently purchased H27 with a very tight, impossible to budge engine pull in the cockpit (the pull that you use to shut the engine off). Does anyone have any ideas for fixing this without having to just replace it? I've since thought maybe squirting some WD40 around it. I would so appreciate any suggestions. Thanks. Linda Menzel
Engine pull/stop in cockpit
- Thread starter sailorgirl
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I never found a fix. Replace it with one of these;
It's a shut-off solenoid and is standard stuff on virtually every diesel engine made....Except a Yanmar. I'm guessing that if you have the cheap pull cable, that you have a Yanmar. This is photo #47 on my web site. More info on the conversion is there. Do it! You'll like it.
It's a shut-off solenoid and is standard stuff on virtually every diesel engine made....Except a Yanmar. I'm guessing that if you have the cheap pull cable, that you have a Yanmar. This is photo #47 on my web site. More info on the conversion is there. Do it! You'll like it.
Mine, also, was frozen........
I, too, have an 1982 H-27 and when I bought it the stop was frozen. I removed it (unbolted it from the fuel shutoff on the engine, pulled the face plate in the cockpit to get to the backside of the handle) squirted WD-40 down it and managed to start working it. It eventually freed up and I continued squirting WD-40 throught the tube until it quit coming out rusty. That solved all my problems and it has worked fine ever since.
I, too, have an 1982 H-27 and when I bought it the stop was frozen. I removed it (unbolted it from the fuel shutoff on the engine, pulled the face plate in the cockpit to get to the backside of the handle) squirted WD-40 down it and managed to start working it. It eventually freed up and I continued squirting WD-40 throught the tube until it quit coming out rusty. That solved all my problems and it has worked fine ever since.
Be Sure First.
Make sure that it is the cable, first. Disconnect it at the engine and then try it. If it's still stuck, then it's the cable. Also try to manually move the lever on the engine while it's disconnected. If the lever is stuck, spray liberally with PB Blaster! (penetrating oil) and let it sit overnight. That should free-up the lever. Then spray with spray lithium grease to keep it free. Both sprays are available at your local auto store.
Make sure that it is the cable, first. Disconnect it at the engine and then try it. If it's still stuck, then it's the cable. Also try to manually move the lever on the engine while it's disconnected. If the lever is stuck, spray liberally with PB Blaster! (penetrating oil) and let it sit overnight. That should free-up the lever. Then spray with spray lithium grease to keep it free. Both sprays are available at your local auto store.
Thanks a lot
Thanks to all of your responses. The diesel is a 1 cylinder 8hp renault..probably the original. Linda
Thanks to all of your responses. The diesel is a 1 cylinder 8hp renault..probably the original. Linda
Caution on PB BLaster
All good info, and WD-40 will free up the cable if you let it flow in from one or both ends. However, I believe PB Blaster has Acetone in it which can attack plastics and paints, including engine paint. Both are flamable, so be carefull where you use them.
All good info, and WD-40 will free up the cable if you let it flow in from one or both ends. However, I believe PB Blaster has Acetone in it which can attack plastics and paints, including engine paint. Both are flamable, so be carefull where you use them.
replace cable
if you value your time replace cable.they are cheap.it shoud take about 10 min. to change. remove face plate cut off handle tape new cable to old and pull through. easy. Gary
if you value your time replace cable.they are cheap.it shoud take about 10 min. to change. remove face plate cut off handle tape new cable to old and pull through. easy. Gary
I just did mine..and lucked out!
I had a similar problem, bought a new cable and, after disconnecting the lever on the "engine side" was able to pull the "Shut off" end out far enough to shoot some Teflon grease down into the cable, work it a few times to loosen it up, hook it all back up again, and Voila!!..works like new and saved me the $25 cost of a new one. Try it!
I had a similar problem, bought a new cable and, after disconnecting the lever on the "engine side" was able to pull the "Shut off" end out far enough to shoot some Teflon grease down into the cable, work it a few times to loosen it up, hook it all back up again, and Voila!!..works like new and saved me the $25 cost of a new one. Try it!
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