We stupidly ran out of fuel last weekend on a quick day trip. We got fuel and bled the lines and got the engine running. The problem is that it will not idle. It seems to fade out when running less than 600 rpms. When I restart it a puff of black smoke comes out the exhaust for a few seconds and then the engine reachs full RPM. My current guess is that the filters are clogged by some gunk sucked out of the fuel tank. When the engine RPM drops the suction is not strong enough to pull the fuel through and keep the engine running. Does this sound like the cause or is it something else? Ace
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Start at the pickup tube.
Asa: Start at the pickup tube in the tank. Remove the tube and see if there is a screen filter on the end. If there is one, just remove it and try it again. If that is not the problem, you should replace the primary filter next and try it again. Last but not least would be the engine filter (Yanmar). If you have not changed both filters for a while, you may consider doing both of them now. After each one of these fixes you will probably need to bleed the system again. PS: 6,000 rpm's is a little rough on a diesel.
Asa: Start at the pickup tube in the tank. Remove the tube and see if there is a screen filter on the end. If there is one, just remove it and try it again. If that is not the problem, you should replace the primary filter next and try it again. Last but not least would be the engine filter (Yanmar). If you have not changed both filters for a while, you may consider doing both of them now. After each one of these fixes you will probably need to bleed the system again. PS: 6,000 rpm's is a little rough on a diesel.
6000 RPMs?
From everything that I have seen, if your diesel is doing 6000, something is wrong. You had better have it checked, or go to a Yanmar web site for info.
From everything that I have seen, if your diesel is doing 6000, something is wrong. You had better have it checked, or go to a Yanmar web site for info.
Your problem is probably air...
You may still have air in your lines. Usually stopped up filters are more related to high RPM problems. Remove the vent screw on top of your Yanmar filter located on the engine. This is the screw on the top front of the filter canister. Your fuel lift pump has a lever on the side of it that will assist in bleeding the system. Just pump the lever slowly until you have no air bubles coming out of the screw hole. Replace this screw and tighten. If the symptom is not fixed, you may then need to bleed the injector with the engine running. I had a filter stop up last year and went through all of these procedures before I finally got everything back to normal. Hope this helps... Jerry Smith
You may still have air in your lines. Usually stopped up filters are more related to high RPM problems. Remove the vent screw on top of your Yanmar filter located on the engine. This is the screw on the top front of the filter canister. Your fuel lift pump has a lever on the side of it that will assist in bleeding the system. Just pump the lever slowly until you have no air bubles coming out of the screw hole. Replace this screw and tighten. If the symptom is not fixed, you may then need to bleed the injector with the engine running. I had a filter stop up last year and went through all of these procedures before I finally got everything back to normal. Hope this helps... Jerry Smith
engine rpms
Asa- not sure what engine you have but most engines will not run below 600 rpm most Yanmar engines idle 700 to 800 rpms. How slow did your's run before the filter change? Check you linkage and idle setting!
Asa- not sure what engine you have but most engines will not run below 600 rpm most Yanmar engines idle 700 to 800 rpms. How slow did your's run before the filter change? Check you linkage and idle setting!
Engine is a 2GM
I have the 2GM. I followed the directions from the Yanmar manual. I opened the screw and pumped the primer until fuel came out. I opened the high pressure tubes above the fuel pump and turned over the engine until fuel pumped through. Then I started the engine. It would only run at first with full throttle and only ran a low RPM. Then the engine rpm increased and I throttled back. The engine will run now until I reduce the RPM's to ~600. Should I just set the idle to just above this speed, clean the filters or bleed more air from the line? If I need to bleed the injecters how do I do that. The manual didn't include this step. I assume I just remove the injector and then turn over the engine. Then remove the other injecter and start it again. I know I read some where that you can't get hit by the injecter spray as it is dangerous. Any ither tips? Ace
I have the 2GM. I followed the directions from the Yanmar manual. I opened the screw and pumped the primer until fuel came out. I opened the high pressure tubes above the fuel pump and turned over the engine until fuel pumped through. Then I started the engine. It would only run at first with full throttle and only ran a low RPM. Then the engine rpm increased and I throttled back. The engine will run now until I reduce the RPM's to ~600. Should I just set the idle to just above this speed, clean the filters or bleed more air from the line? If I need to bleed the injecters how do I do that. The manual didn't include this step. I assume I just remove the injector and then turn over the engine. Then remove the other injecter and start it again. I know I read some where that you can't get hit by the injecter spray as it is dangerous. Any ither tips? Ace
Should not need to bleed any higher!
Ace: I think that Jerry is correct in his analysis. Seems to me that you should not need to worry about bleeding at the injectors if the engine runs at HIGH speed. There are really two bleed screws on the engine. They have a 10mm (i think) bolt with a phillips head screw in the bolt head. These are the normal bleed points. You should be able to bleed at these points and should NOT need to mess with the injectors. You need to check your washers. There are some nylon washers under the bleed screws. You need to check these to see if they are cracked or leaking in any way. You also have some other washers that are 'banjo' washers where the fuel lines connect. If you loosen these they will NOT seal when you tighten them down again. You may want to find a Yanmar dealer in your local area and pick up a couple of these for this time and have some spares on hand for the future. Also check the primary fuel filter to make sure that you are not leaking any air/fuel from that area too.
Ace: I think that Jerry is correct in his analysis. Seems to me that you should not need to worry about bleeding at the injectors if the engine runs at HIGH speed. There are really two bleed screws on the engine. They have a 10mm (i think) bolt with a phillips head screw in the bolt head. These are the normal bleed points. You should be able to bleed at these points and should NOT need to mess with the injectors. You need to check your washers. There are some nylon washers under the bleed screws. You need to check these to see if they are cracked or leaking in any way. You also have some other washers that are 'banjo' washers where the fuel lines connect. If you loosen these they will NOT seal when you tighten them down again. You may want to find a Yanmar dealer in your local area and pick up a couple of these for this time and have some spares on hand for the future. Also check the primary fuel filter to make sure that you are not leaking any air/fuel from that area too.
I agree with Steve...
I agree with Steve about the bleeding and also the washers. I had to remove some of my lines during a service procedure and could not get them to reseal. I had to replace them. Jerry
I agree with Steve about the bleeding and also the washers. I had to remove some of my lines during a service procedure and could not get them to reseal. I had to replace them. Jerry
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