I was having a problem with my Yammar diesel overheating while on the upper end of its RPM range. After countless trys to correct this problem (thinking it was prop related) it turns out that my Heat exchanger was clogged. I used a product called TRAC barnacle buster which I circulated through my heat exchanger for a couple of hours. it cleaned out the entire system while still on the engine! I would recommend this product to anyone having the same problem. I plan to use it once a year.
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local radiator shop
I have an after-market heat exchanger on an engine that was intially seawater-cooled. So it is easy to remove. Local radiator shop boiled out for about 40 bucks (included a new cap). Worth it. A touch up with engine enamel and it looks like new. Of course the new thermostat probably didn't hurt either.
I have an after-market heat exchanger on an engine that was intially seawater-cooled. So it is easy to remove. Local radiator shop boiled out for about 40 bucks (included a new cap). Worth it. A touch up with engine enamel and it looks like new. Of course the new thermostat probably didn't hurt either.
Whew! Kevin that's a lot of work.
You know, on a Yanmar, the end cap of the heat exchanger comes off. It's easy. At Home Depot or any hardware store you can buy a long (12") or longer drill bit. I used a 1/4" bit on mine. Just don't drill into the back cover. If you're worried about that, remove it. When you run the bit into each tube, well, you're done. Wipe the gasket surface clean and re-assemble. The cost is only the bit. About $3.00. How much did the chemical system cost and how long did it take?
You know, on a Yanmar, the end cap of the heat exchanger comes off. It's easy. At Home Depot or any hardware store you can buy a long (12") or longer drill bit. I used a 1/4" bit on mine. Just don't drill into the back cover. If you're worried about that, remove it. When you run the bit into each tube, well, you're done. Wipe the gasket surface clean and re-assemble. The cost is only the bit. About $3.00. How much did the chemical system cost and how long did it take?
more than one way to skin a cat I guess
TRAC cost me 20 dollars a gallon of which i used half and mixed the rest with water. I didnt have to take ANYTHING apart. I already had a flushing point added when I bought my replacment cap on my sea strainer (used for winterizing). I took the hose off the overboard thru hull fitting, put it in a bucket and started flushing. no drilling required. I have tried the drilling method and found it to be a bit crude. The Chemical ensures that the entire system is clean.
TRAC cost me 20 dollars a gallon of which i used half and mixed the rest with water. I didnt have to take ANYTHING apart. I already had a flushing point added when I bought my replacment cap on my sea strainer (used for winterizing). I took the hose off the overboard thru hull fitting, put it in a bucket and started flushing. no drilling required. I have tried the drilling method and found it to be a bit crude. The Chemical ensures that the entire system is clean.
Heat Exchanger
In a follow up to the article about Trac for cleaning the raw water side of the heat exchanger I have a few questions. Trac warns that any zinc anodes in the system must be removed or replaced - are there any in a yanmar 3gm? Does anybody know where to get the Trac product in Northern Washington of Vancouver? One last question - my yanmar 3GM runs a constant 180 degrees - is that fairly normal or on the high side?
In a follow up to the article about Trac for cleaning the raw water side of the heat exchanger I have a few questions. Trac warns that any zinc anodes in the system must be removed or replaced - are there any in a yanmar 3gm? Does anybody know where to get the Trac product in Northern Washington of Vancouver? One last question - my yanmar 3GM runs a constant 180 degrees - is that fairly normal or on the high side?
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