Engine oil drain hose adapter

[jonelli]

I have one of those oil drain hose attachments under the oil pan at the drain plug. Last week it was fine, haven’t run the motor, this week found oil in the bilge and looked around with my endoscope and it appears to be coming from that attachment. I have never touched it. Spontaneous leak now. I don’t see any signs of oil anywhere else.
Plan on attacking it next weekend. Any tricks on getting it removed and replacing it? I can reach my hand under there, but not sure about getting tools in there.
Am I better off just putting a drain plug screw in it and forgetting about that hose? It might be an easier fix.

 

[jonelli]

From what I can tell, it looks like all the parts in this kit listed below.
It doesn't look like a generic kit, so if the hose adapter is leaking, should I replace it all?

 

[jonelli]

Another option is to just get rid of the hose kit and put one of these plugs in?

 

[Ward H]

Looks familiar. I replaced the drain hose on my my C30 last spring when I raised the engine for a new tranny and motor mounts. The kit cost cost $142 from Hansen Marine Engineering.
Looking at the diagram posted, it doesn't look like pulling oil from the dipstick tube will get to the bottom of the pan. You'll also have a smaller ID hose to pull the oil thru.
That's the reason why I replaced mine when I found it leaking after I raised the engine. Wasn't sure if I damaged the hose or just loosened it in the process but decided that changing it while the engine was up in the air was the easiest way to go.

 

[Hayden Watson]

You can buy it as a Univer$al part...
Or if the hose is leaking, you can go to a bearing and hose shop and have them replace the hose. The other thing that might be leaking is on of the crush washers. They can be replaced at most any autoparts store. If the fitting is cracked, it is called a "banjo fitting" and the hose and bearing shop would also have them.
I would bet on the hose getting a leak.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I wouldn't be too quick on replacing the banjo fitting (part #15). It certainly looks to be solid enough. Or maybe just the hose has failed ?

The mfg. drawing shows two washers (parts #23) at $22.30 ea. ! Your photo shows only one gasket on the bottom joint and maybe no gasket on the upper joint. Remember, the photo is upside down. The one gasket showing is definitely not the $22.30 trophy gasket (#23) but still looks like a healthy substitute.

I got two nickels, a dime and a ball of pocket lint that says that's where your problem is. It's held up for years and finally got shaken loose. You need to insert a 5¢ nylon gasket from a hardware store in that upper joint. During cold weather, it helps to heat the banjo assembly with a hair dryer when tightening. With a heat gun, be realllllllllllllly careful.

When you're working on that assembly, whether tightening or loosening, always hold the upper most nut as a backup. Maybe there should be a gasket up there as well.

 

[jonelli]

View attachment 213373 View attachment 213372

I think one of you are exactly right. We just went from 75-80 degree days to 45-55 degree weeks recently. I can't tell if its leaking from the banjo assembly or the hose, but like you said, the bolts and banjo are likely okay on their own, replacing the washers and re-tightening should solve that. But, I may need to check the hose too. Based on the fact that it's just two flat washers there, I'm guessing there's the issue?
Regarding the "top" bolt, should I use teflon and a crush washer? I was reading the instructions for a Jabsco version of a similar kit and they recommended teflon on the main bolt that goes into the pan. But, when I've changed the oil in my cars I've never used anything but a washer.

I understand the assembly now, so thanks for that!
Here's a better picture I found in one of my endoscope videos.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

they recommended teflon on the main bolt that goes into the pan.

The bolt is hollow and it has a side hole. Cover that hole in the main bolt with teflon tape and OOPS, it's back to the drawing board. The reason I say cheap 5¢ nylon washer is that Yanmar recently got smart and replaced one of the crush washers on the top of the engine mounted fuel filter with a nylon washer. It's often used to vent air so the nylon washer is reusable. Part#8 is the nylon washer :

I still paid about $4.00 for it from the Yanmar dealer. Big box stores sell them for about 5¢ (or they should).

 

[Richard19068]

Big box stores sell them for about 5¢ (or they should).

Canadian?

 

[Ward H]

The mfg. drawing shows two washers (parts #23) at $22.30 ea. ! Your photo shows only one gasket on the bottom joint and maybe no gasket on the upper joint. Remember, the photo is upside down. The one gasket showing is definitely not the $22.30 trophy gasket (#23) but still looks like a healthy substitute.

Ralph, I think you might be reading the wrong line for the price of #23. That is for #22 which is an O ring. Not sure where that goes.
#23 doesn't doesn't show a price, probably because they are included in kit 15b.
Kit 15B includes the parts bracketed in the diagram as 15 as well as 19 and 20. I think 21 was also included and I didn't use it but I have no idea where it is now.

@jonelli
If you've got very small hands with nimble fingers you might be able to change it to the plug only without lifting the engine.

If the drain hose and associated parts were easily accessible I'd have tried changing just the gaskets, then the hose, etc.until it stopped leaking. Since I wanted to retain the sump hose feature and there was no way I could get my fat fingers in there to put it back together with the engine in place, I went with the kit while I had the room to work on it.

 

[jonelli]

Here's my plan... I have to travel this week, then I can work on it next weekend:
- Buy a plain ol' straight plug for now.
- Buy a couple of nylon M22 washers for now.
- Next weekend-Drain the oil, try to pull off the entire hose kit, inspect banjo hose kit, if looks like might be just washers/seals, try to replace them and see if it leaks.
- If it still leaks, (or if I cannot get it back together) replace with M22 drain plug for now.
- Go sailing the next weekend.
- Fix hose/kit and attempt to install another day.

 

[Ward H]

Sounds like a good plan to me!

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

#23 doesn't doesn't show a price, probably because they are included in kit 15b.

You are so right. If I were ordering parts for this oil sump, it would look something like this when finished :

It would be spectacular, but may not fit the intended purpose.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Canadian?

If it were 5¢ Canadian, they would give them away free.

 

[jonelli]

Oil leak fixed. Was able to get the banjo fitting apart and found the cracked washer seal. Replaced them with new ones and tightened it all back up and so far so good.

 

[jonelli]

The washers I used cost $0.61 each.

 

[Ward H]

The washers I used cost $0.61 each.

Nice! How was the access to change the washers? Just reached right in with a wrench? I can barely get my hand on the drain, let alone work a wrench.

 

[jonelli]

Nice! How was the access to change the washers? Just reached right in with a wrench? I can barely get my hand on the drain, let alone work a wrench.

Not exactly that easy. Open end wrenches fit, couldn't get a full socket ratchet in there, the keel bolt was in the way.
But, there was enough room. Took the access door off, open the bilge, go through the bilge to reach in there.

 

[Hayden Watson]

Not exactly that easy. Open end wrenches fit, couldn't get a full socket ratchet in there, the keel bolt was in the way.
But, there was enough room. Took the access door off, open the bilge, go through the bilge to reach in there.

When I replaced my motor mounts, I used the two picking eyes on the top of the engine to lift the engine enough to replace the mounts (about 2"). Would that have made the process of replacing the banjo washers easier?

I lifted the engine with a come-a-long up to a 4x4 across the companionway opening.

 

[jonelli]

When I replaced my motor mounts, I used the two picking eyes on the top of the engine to lift the engine enough to replace the mounts (about 2"). Would that have made the process of replacing the banjo washers easier?

I lifted the engine with a come-a-long up to a 4x4 across the companionway opening.

That sounds like more trouble and work than I had just trying to fit a wrench in there. My open end wrench was slipping, so I did this to get a socket to fit in there and got it broken loose: