Engine not starting

[Kenneth Pfaff]

My boat got splashed yesterday 'YAHOO' and I when down to check her out, to check for any leaks and connect the shore power. Everything was fine except the stuffing box was dripping way too much, so I had to tight it up.Just to see if the engine would start, I opened the through hull and hit the start button. The engine would crank, but would not start.I have not changed any of the fuel filters yet, but would I still need to bleed the fuel lines? By the way the engine is a Yanmar 2GM20F diesel.Also what are the correct steps for starting the inboard engine after the winter (last year the boat was new and the dealer did everything)?I must also say the the Hunter and Yanmar Manuals are very, very, very poor when it comes to these types of questions.Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

 

[Mark M Smith]

Try bleeding first

Bleed the fuel system first, if this does not help try changing the fuel, Deisel fuel can "go bad" if it has been sitting for a while, then try changing the filters, they can be clogged.

 

[Gene]

Starting trick

I had the very same problem with the same engine..I cleaned the injectors, etc, and bled up to the fuel pump. Nigel Calder recommended spraying WD-40 into the air intake to jump-start the fuel feed, and that's what I did. That got the engine going for a few revolutions - enough to complete the bleed of the injector fuel lines and bring the engine back running again. Note - you should not open the sea cock until after the engine is running. It doesn't need the cooling until after it's been running a while, and you run the risk of back-flooding if the engine doesn't start right away. Start the engine, then go below and open the sea cock. Much smarter.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Trick #2.

I keep a small outboard-type fuel tank in a locker with about 2 gals. of diesel. The type with the hose and squeeze bulb. When/if I suspect a fuel problem I clamp the hose right onto the Racor fuel filter. A couple of pumps of the bulb and she'll fire right up.Then I can use that same hose to pressurize back through the other filters and into the tank. This removes any air and/or clogs. Hook her back up and she usually runs without bleeding. Now it's time to fix the real problem, probably bad fuel or dirt around the pickup tube in the tank.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Seacock sequence

Gene is correct about extended cranking and getting water in the cylinders.However, I offer up the following- Last year I failed to open the seacock on my generator when I started it. After running for 1-2 minutes, I suddenly realized what I had done. Although I then opened the seacock, only a little water was being pumped. I had destroyed the impeller and the pieces were scattered into the pump, connecting hoses, and heat exchanger.I spent the next 8 hours disassembling everything and flushing, picking, and cleaning out all of the rubber debris.Needless to say, this was a lesson learned. Now I double check the seacock JUST before starting.All this is to suggest that keeping the seacock closed will deprive the pump of lubricating cooling water and may cause problems of its own.Possibly a better solution would be to close the seacock after some cranking (and realizing that a hard start is occurring) and post another person at the seacock to immediately open when the engine does start. Or, better yet, to remove the output hose of the pump and lead it to a big bucket or overboard until the engine gets going.Rich

 

[Les Andersen]

Fuel Shut Off.

Ken,Just a thought but all the tanks I have seen have a valve at the top between the fuel pickup and the hose to the engine. If it somehow was closed last fall and not opened the engine won't start. Might want to check that first. Good luck.Less/v Mutual Fun