Engine control panel modification

[Scott T-Bird]

In my typical fashion, I plowed forward with a modification without knowing where I'm going entirely. I've always hated the engine control panel pod at the base of the pedestal because a) it's a lousy location; b) combined with the autopilot, the wheel is pushed out so far that the keeper knob barely has a couple of threads to catch, and it DOES come off if you don't constantly watch it; and, c) the rim of the pod has been butchered to accommodate the autopilot lever and it is really ugly and a negative feature on the boat.

Here is a portion of it with the panel removed but the rim is still attached. I removed the panel to see what is inside (as if I didn't know ) and to find out what it would take to remove the rim.

Here's a view with the rim off. I'd love to simply replace the entire pod with something that goes in the same place but is a better fit, but that doesn't seem possible. I think nobody makes anything suitable. I know Catalina Direct sells the panels with instruments (I thought they sold blank panels without instruments - but I could not find the Yanmar replacement, so I'm guessing they are out of stock, probably never to be replaced). My poorly formulated plan is to replace the rim with a low-profile face board made from starboard or painted plywood and simply fit the original panel to it. With a low profile, there won't be much protection for the instruments, but if I can reduce an inch, I should be golden.

Here's a head-on view.

Anybody have any good ideas? Photos below show the rim and you can see how deep the profile is and how bad it looks. Also shown is the panel. The panel is ok and I think I'll just keep it. My biggest constraint, I think, is that the wiring comes from the pedestal and a project to relocate an instrument panel is too daunting.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Here's a few more views of the pod itself.

That grey band is just a vinyl joint that joins the rim to the pod. It's in ok shape and I think I may preserve it just to make a transition to a new face rim. There were clips inside that also fixed the rim to the pod, but they were destroyed in removing the rim. A damaged plastic clip is on the floor. I'd like to replace the pod because it has some damage (stress cracks around the shut-off handle and some holes that were previously patched, but I can't find a suitable replacement.

 

[JoeWhite]

I believe there is no room to set the instruments farther back. Specially the tac. On my C36 I have the same pod and the mounting screw hole just above the tac is cracked due to pressing back hard. If you were able to find an other pod may be you can just replace the rim.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Replacing the rim is the crux of the problem ... first off, it's been butchered and the biggest problem is that its profile makes it necessary to push the wheel further out to the limits of the threaded post. I really don't understand how they designed this malfunction. Catalina 320 isn't made to accommodate a below-decks pilot and the Raymarine wheel pilot is installed almost universally on this boat. I was led to understand that the boat was commissioned with this butcher's job, and I find it hard to believe. The wheel drive, installed on the wheel has to interfere with the instrument pod, making it necessary to push the wheel even further out. I don't know why this isn't a defect on every Catalina 320 ever made during this period. I've looked in the owner's group to see if there is any discussion about this and find very little. Some mention that when the ignition switch was mounted on the face of the panel, key chains often got hung up in the wheel spokes. The solution was to move the ignition switch to the side of the pod and that is how mine is installed.

So, I think that I can move the panel back about 1/2" when I re-mount it. The tach is on the left side of the pedestal and there won't be any interference. I'll have to leave enough room between the pedestal and the panel to sneak some wires past from one side to the other. I'll also have to consider the volt and temperature gauges on the right side to be sure I don't push them against the shut-off handle assembly. By eliminating the rim, I should gain all the clearance I need. I think I will have to construct a suitable replacement rim that has far less profile depth and a reasonable way to cover the joint at the pod. I also think I will leave the gray vinyl band in place. I don't know the best way to treat those stress cracks around the handle, but after sealing them somehow, I think I may paint the pod glossy white to clean it up.

If you can see the wheel in the background on the attached photo, you can see how the wheel pilot, mounted on the forward side of the wheel, requires more space than the steering post allows. They placed a spacer on the post almost 2" long, cut from a PVC pipe, to keep the wheel spaced out from the hub (you can see it just barely at the top of the photo in Post #2). Also, when they mounted that anchor post on the pedestal, for some reason, they had to cut a different hole in the wheel pilot (they didn't use the hole provided) to anchor the wheel pilot. It was another butcher's job and I just don't understand how this is so fubar. It's been steering well, though ... I'll give it that!

 

[Mark Maulden]

Can you get rid of the pod and put a panel above the speaker?

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Can you get rid of the pod and put a panel above the speaker?

I have thought about a complete relocation. I would have to cut into finished space in the aft berth on the starboard side. The port side has the lid for the propane locker. It seems like a bigger project than I'd like to consider. I'm also concerned about re-routing the shut-off cable. It's an option for another time, I suppose.

 

[dmax]

Tough problem - I think your best bet is to modify what you have. For the stress cracks I would build up the underside for strength, a layer or two of fiberglass, kitty hair etc. would do it. You can then gouge out and fill the cracks and spray paint the whole thing, it will look like new. For the trim ring, I would see if you can modify what you got as replicating that shape would be difficult. Cut it down to an acceptable thickness and see what can be done to make it look good and smooth and then spray paint it. This could be some work/time but probably easier than other solutions. I've restored numerous items on my boat by spray painting, the results always amaze me.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

For the trim ring, I would see if you can modify what you got as replicating that shape would be difficult. Cut it down to an acceptable thickness and see what can be done to make it look good and smooth and then spray paint it.

No, the trim ring is a flimsy plastic extrusion. The section where it was cut down? ... That's a large hole filled with hardened caulk. The ring itself is not solid material. That's why it looks so bad. It's about the most ridiculous FUBAR I've ever seen on a nice boat. The trim ring is garbage.

I discovered that I have a very nice, unused, laminated panel that has a hard, white glossy surface (it's left over from an IKEA project). I think I can shape it with a jig saw and sanding and then seal the edges to prevent water damage and moisture intrusion (which would surely ruin it otherwise). I have everything necessary for the template. It's going to be the new face of the pod, with the panel inset.

If it fails, I'll probably think about relocation. One of the other things I have against relocating the panel is that I would then have holes in the pedestal and a hole in the deck where that SS leg penetrates. That bent leg at the aft side of the pedestal is the route for the wiring and shut-off cable from underneath. It only makes that short run to the pod ... it's not part of the pedestal guard, it only looks like a similar component. The cable for the VHF remote penetrates into the pedestal. I will be replacing the VHF and have a wireless remote, I think.

 

[BigEasy]

I would avoid attempting to relocate the components; you will undoubtedly run into unforeseen issues and costs . So, I would concentrate on sourcing another pod & trim ring (new or used) from Catalina dealers or modifying your existing components. The housing should be easy; reinforce the fiberglass under the shutoff with added fiberglass or SS fender washers and spray paint the housing with two part epoxy. Modify the trim ring by cutting the external face down to the bottom of the notch that was cut to accommodate the wheel pilot lever. You will have to refine the face with fairing compound & light weight cloth. Spray paint to match the module. You could mold a new trim ring to your specs. If you don't have the time or resources to DIY, a fiberglass repair shop or auto body shop could do it for you.

 

[twalker H260]

I’m I understanding correctly that the bent tubes role is simply to house the wires/cable from the pod to the area below?

It looks like you might be able to take a few inches off the bottom of the tube, and maybe a bit off the top to allow the pod to be dropped down the pedestal a bit which could then give clearance for your autopilot lever? I think the bolt and screw to the pedestal were likely just bored after the fact to mount the pod. You could then repair the pod trim piece.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

It looks like you might be able to take a few inches off the bottom of the tube, and maybe a bit off the top to allow the pod to be dropped down the pedestal a bit which could then give clearance for your autopilot lever?

Interesting idea for clearing the lever, but it doesn't address the wheel position, which I also want to improve. It's not just the lever that is causing a clearance issue. It's a combination of the clearance needed for the rim profile and the wheel pilot (the ring attached to the wheel). The pod and the rim are not fiberglass. These components are plastic. Trying to shape the rim is futile. It is hollow. There is no way to shape it. It can only be cut open. The part that was filled, was filled with caulk that eventually hardened. I don't really know how they did it but it looks like crap. The piece is garbage. I'm guessing maybe they filled that portion of the hollow section with some material and then cut it out later after it hardened into the shape that exists now. In essence, they used the plastic like a mold. It's a complete fail that I'm not going to try to replicate.

 

[twalker H260]

How is clearance from front of pod without trim to the wheel?is there sufficient clearance behind panel if it was mounted flush with the face of the pod?

 

[Tally Ho]

Interesting issues you have Scott.

My O’Day 322 had a home made “box” around the bottom of the pedestal that had some wiring, a VHF, a hailer, a fish finder and sundry other things it. I removed the VHF and hailer that didn’t work, and did a piss-poor job of patching the holes…but it still worked.

Last year I replaced the autopilot and the new lever interfered with the box, so at the end of the season, I yanked it out.


I am building a new box, to hold some wiring for my N2K backbone, speakers for the stereo, and a Raymarine wireless interface that allows me to get the wireless wind data from my Tac Tic device on my AP and CP.

View attachment 213584

It is shorter and not as deep as the old one, so it also won’t interfere with my AP clutch lever.

Here is a shot of the old one, showing where it mounts on the pedestal…


I am not a good worker, but if you have some wood working or fiberglass skills (I wanted to try and make this out of fiberglass, but in the end just glassed over some plywood), you might consider something similar. You could still use the nice instrument panel, and just make a box to mount it on…

Greg

 

[Calif. Ted]

There was a different pod used on my boat Scott, it's made by Navpod, no extensions, clearance between the wheel and pod is very close. I'm using the older black Mark1 wheel pilot because of the mounting problem you mentioned. The Gray Mk2 is slightly different diameter and the motor hits the pod so neither of the pre drilled holes work and a third must be created.
You might call Navpod and see if they provided the pods like yours or see if one of the other style will fit.
EP162 - NavPod