I have a O'day 272 with a westerbeke 10/2 diesel. The diesel always starts within the 1st couple of cranks when the engine is cold. But after it's been run for a hour or so it won't start do to the main engine circuit breaker is tripped. I have replaced the circuit breaker and have also moved it off the engine. I have cleaned all the ground wires, replaced my starter relay. The breaker trips as soon as I turn my key to on, but only after the engine has been run. I reset the breaker and all is fine and it starts back up. Has anyone experienced this condition, and how did you correct?
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Bob
It sounds as if you have done all the right things, if you can't get help here try "marineengine.com", they also have a discussion board. It would seem many professional mechanics visit that site and help people with difficult diagnosis problems. Now keep in mind I am not knocking this site, but if you need additional help they might be a 2nd choice for you. Good Luck, Jack
It sounds as if you have done all the right things, if you can't get help here try "marineengine.com", they also have a discussion board. It would seem many professional mechanics visit that site and help people with difficult diagnosis problems. Now keep in mind I am not knocking this site, but if you need additional help they might be a 2nd choice for you. Good Luck, Jack
Corrosion in circuit.....
Corroded electrical connectors will have less resistance when 'wet' than when dry .... the engine heat dries out the corrosion; hence the high amperage (when the engine heat dries out the corrosion) that trips the breaker. In all probablility you have an electrical connector, etc. that is corroded somewhere in the circuit. Id replace the WHOLE circuit with marine grade tinned wire and marine grade tinned connectors, etc. Most engine control panels are constructed of cheap non-tinned ('automotive grade') components that corrode easily in a marine environment and the result is the symptoms that you are currently encountering. If you develop high resistance (from corrosion, etc.) in such a circuit, the amperage draw goes 'way-up' and thats whats tripping the breaker. Such symptoms are fairly common with cheapo wiring on boats.
Corroded electrical connectors will have less resistance when 'wet' than when dry .... the engine heat dries out the corrosion; hence the high amperage (when the engine heat dries out the corrosion) that trips the breaker. In all probablility you have an electrical connector, etc. that is corroded somewhere in the circuit. Id replace the WHOLE circuit with marine grade tinned wire and marine grade tinned connectors, etc. Most engine control panels are constructed of cheap non-tinned ('automotive grade') components that corrode easily in a marine environment and the result is the symptoms that you are currently encountering. If you develop high resistance (from corrosion, etc.) in such a circuit, the amperage draw goes 'way-up' and thats whats tripping the breaker. Such symptoms are fairly common with cheapo wiring on boats.
Me either
Good that you have it though as clearly there is an overload somewhere. What does the CB actually control; the high current starting circuit or just the engine electrical controls/sensor circuits?
Good that you have it though as clearly there is an overload somewhere. What does the CB actually control; the high current starting circuit or just the engine electrical controls/sensor circuits?
On many boats with Westerbeke (Universal)
engines, there is a simple fuse holder in the line from the start button or switch to the starter solenoid. If this goes, there is nothing when you hit the start button. The symptoms appear to lead to corrosion in the wiring. Check every connection. Older boats may have been built with non-tinned wire. We found that one of the lugs on our older wiring at the batteries came right off after a simple twist by hand! It's most likely the lugs at the connections. PS -- revised wording in first paragraph since first post
engines, there is a simple fuse holder in the line from the start button or switch to the starter solenoid. If this goes, there is nothing when you hit the start button. The symptoms appear to lead to corrosion in the wiring. Check every connection. Older boats may have been built with non-tinned wire. We found that one of the lugs on our older wiring at the batteries came right off after a simple twist by hand! It's most likely the lugs at the connections. PS -- revised wording in first paragraph since first post
Is it the glowplug CB?
If so that would explain why nothing happens when you turn it on. There are no observable things to indicte that the glowplugs are turned on unless you have an indicator light. Use your voltage meter to see if they are coming on by watching for a voltage drop when a helper holds down the glow plug switch and the CB is on. Turn off the CB and hold down the glowplug switch again. If that is what it is controling there will be no voltage drop. Good luck
If so that would explain why nothing happens when you turn it on. There are no observable things to indicte that the glowplugs are turned on unless you have an indicator light. Use your voltage meter to see if they are coming on by watching for a voltage drop when a helper holds down the glow plug switch and the CB is on. Turn off the CB and hold down the glowplug switch again. If that is what it is controling there will be no voltage drop. Good luck
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