Engine bearer plates for Beta 14

Gene Neill

Gene Neill

.
Sep 30, 2013
3,592
1988 Catalina 22 North Florida
Does anyone currently sell engine bearer plates for a Series III Vega/Beta 14 engine? Or will I need to make my own plates (or have them made)?I'm also in the market for a driveshaft, prop, and stern seal, if anyone can steer me toward a good source of those items.Thanks!
 
S

stevebirch2002

.
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Easy peezy. 500mm x 80 or 100mm x
10mm Steel.
From: gene_neill@...
[AlbinVega]
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 4:01 PM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AlbinVega] Engine bearer plates for Beta
14
Does anyone currently sell engine bearer plates for a Series III
Vega/Beta 14 engine? Or will I need to make my own plates (or have them
made)?

I'm also in the market for a driveshaft, prop, and stern seal, if
anyone can steer me toward a good source of those items.

Thanks!









This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
 
G

gene_neill

.
Apr 12, 2016
102
Okay, thanks Steve. Google tells me these measurements equal roughly 20" x 3", and 4" x 0.4" The first measurement (20 x 3) makes sense, that's roughly the dimensions of the two bearers, right? The second one (100mm x
10mm, or 4" x 0.4") I might need help understanding.Once you have the plates cut out, is there right and wrong order in which to drill and tap them? Perhaps bolt the plates to the bearers using the original Volvo bolt holes, then align the engine on the plates, then drill and tap the plates where the feet will bolt down?I assume there must be some "slop" left in there somewhere, for final alignment?
 
W

winslowbuoy

.
Jan 31, 2009
122
Use the foremost holes in the bearers to locate the plate and the foremost holes of the forward flexible mounts. Use the other 6 holes to fix the plates. After positioning the engine bearers mark up the other six extra holes (3 each side) for the flexible mounts, remove the bearer plate and drill and tap it. I use M8 (8mm) bolts to fix the flexible mounts apart from the foremost holes where I use a couple of the existing Volvo bolts.
My Beta has been performing well for 18 years now.
Good Luck Mike

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: gene_neill@... [AlbinVega]
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 8:59 PM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AlbinVega] Re: Engine bearer plates for Beta 14


Okay, thanks Steve. Google tells me these measurements equal roughly 20" x 3", and 4" x 0.4" The first measurement (20 x 3) makes sense, that's roughly the dimensions of the two bearers, right? The second one (100mm x 10mm, or 4" x 0.4") I might need help understanding.

Once you have the plates cut out, is there right and wrong order in which to drill and tap them? Perhaps bolt the plates to the bearers using the original Volvo bolt holes, then align the engine on the plates, then drill and tap the plates where the feet will bolt down?

I assume there must be some "slop" left in there somewhere, for final alignment?
 
S

SVFlyAway

.
Oct 31, 2019
303
I am sure you all know this, but drills bits and taps are not all created equal. When I installed my Beta I purchased the drill bits and tap from a "recreational" marine store. It was a painful experience just to drill and tap the first hole (and I used cutting oil and had a small drill press I took down to the boat). Then I went to a commercial supply house, showed them the bolts and asked for the best drill and tap they had. Cost about double of the one purchased at the marina store. But when started to work I couldn't believe the ease the drill cut the steel and how the tap cut the threads so fast I didn't realize I was done with the first one.Also, I love making patterns. I use foam core board for patterns of everything I can, all the time. I made a pattern of the steel bearer plates and then was able to easily find the location for the mating to the boat bearers since the foam core dents so easily. I then drilled the hole out of the boat with the drill press.Then, to mark the location of the engine mounts I put them on the engine and using a block and tackle hung it in place (using the boom, I attached the topping lift exactly where the block was attached to the boom to take any strain). With the engine hanging roughly in place I lowered it and aligned it carefully as I could in the boat and marked where I wanted to drill and tap for the flexible engine mounts. Simple then to slip the steel plate out from under the engine, take the plate out of the boat and then use the drill press to drill and tap the holes. Much easier than trying to work in the cramped engine compartment.Probably extra work, and probably will be laughed at by the professionals as anal, but I'd do it that way again as it was an easy installation.
 
G

gene_neill

.
Apr 12, 2016
102
I dunno Chris, that doesn't sound too bad to me! The method you describe - using the boom as a crane - is the same method I'm using. The old Volvo came out without so much as a hiccup.So, people use "ordinary" steel to make these plates? Not stainless? Seems like they would rust very badly, and very quickly. Not so?
 
A

alaskaflyfish

.
Oct 15, 2015
206
Your engine block and accessories are made of iron and steel as well as the shock mounts. Just prime and paint the plates really well and it will be fine. Stainless plate is expensive and hard to drill. Unless you really want stainless steel plates, stainless is not necessary. Mine are primed steel and are fine after 20+ years. From: "gene_neill@... [AlbinVega]" AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2017 2:22 PM Subject: [AlbinVega] Re: Engine bearer plates for Beta 14




I dunno Chris, that doesn't sound too bad to me! The method you describe - using the boom as a crane - is the same method I'm using. The old Volvo came out without so much as a hiccup.So, people use "ordinary" steel to make these plates? Not stainless? Seems like they would rust very badly, and very quickly. Not so?






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SVFlyAway

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Oct 31, 2019
303
The plate is thick enough that it won't rust all the way though and most would just be like "mill scale rust.". The engine itself is just plain steel after all and, as I recall, the beta mounts aren't stainless either. Then the engine compartment is pretty dry itself, especially if the engine is run regularly (which it should be for the engine's sake). In a place exposed to extreme saltwater contact, well that might be a different story. However, I did coat my plates with some good zinc-based paint. The installation was pretty easy even for an old guy who is only a marginal mechanic and a mediocre machinist. Now, I did have a ringer -- my son-in-law is a superb auto and truck mechanic and having the 30+-year-old muscle sure did help.
 
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SVFlyAway

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Oct 31, 2019
303
I should have added we only worked on it a few hours a day. The boat was on the hard and climbing up and down that 6-foot ladder is hard on the old knees. But, I figure the cumulative number of hours at the boat site wasn't more than 10 or so (that didn't include messing with the new shaft and coupler). By the way, the coupler I used gripped the shaft with a pressure fittings. I didn't get the bolts applying the pressure tight enough first time and the shaft slipped out when I was testing the engine in the water. but didn't go in the water or I would have had a total disaster. The bolts were subsequently really tightened. One thing I then did do was to put a hose clamp inside the boat, not too far from the packing gland and tightened it well so the shaft couldn't leave the boat. If I were doing it again, I think I'd use a shaft zinc instead of the clamp as it is smoother, better balanced, and, might I add more "elegant." The more I thought about it what better place to store a few replacement zincs on the shaft inside the boat (they are readily available and I actually can remember where they are!). One other thing I did was to buy the Beta exhaust loop (a plastic affair) and an appropriate exhaust thru hull, also their water lift muffler. These both take a bigger hose than the old Volvo. And it worked out well. For the live of me I couldn't remove the nut on the old thru hull, but the new one was exactly the size of the outside of the old one. So I just took a holesaw (2"inch as I recall) and fit it over the old thru-hull and cut it out. The new fitting fit perfectly.
 
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gene_neill

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Apr 12, 2016
102
Great information guys, thanks! I wish Beta Marine sold drive shafts, seals and such. I don't suppose you have any information on what I need or where to look for it? I confess I don't fully understand the anatomy of the stern. Having disassembled and looked at it, I can't believe it didn't leak.I did send an email to "General Propeller" in Bradenton, FL (recommended by someone at Beta Marine). They seem capable of getting me sorted out if all else fails.
 
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