Does ayone know how much antifreeze, or water for that matter a Yanmar 2QM15 holds for the purpose of winterizing? I used 2.5 litres (2 qts) of full strength antifreeze (usually mixed 50/50) before the exhaust had a definite green colour of antifreeze. Was that enough?
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Pete
anti freeze
2 guarts of anti freze sounds a little short of total capacity however if it came out the exhaust it should be o.k. However anti freeze (the green stuff)needs to be doluted to a 50/50 mix for max protection,full strenght is not as affective as the 50/50 mix.You might want to drain the block and muffler before you run anti freeze thru.
2 guarts of anti freze sounds a little short of total capacity however if it came out the exhaust it should be o.k. However anti freeze (the green stuff)needs to be doluted to a 50/50 mix for max protection,full strenght is not as affective as the 50/50 mix.You might want to drain the block and muffler before you run anti freeze thru.
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Stephen Ord
Full strength now diluted
I know that it is recommended to dilute it and that is why I added it full strength. I thought that the water in the block would mix with it to give me a diluted mix. The bottle recommended from 50/50 to 70/30 (Anti/H2O) for our climate in Canada. I was anticipating that the Block would hold about 4 qts.
I know that it is recommended to dilute it and that is why I added it full strength. I thought that the water in the block would mix with it to give me a diluted mix. The bottle recommended from 50/50 to 70/30 (Anti/H2O) for our climate in Canada. I was anticipating that the Block would hold about 4 qts.
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Fran Mara
Antifreeze
The antifeeze that is used to winterize an engine or relace the water that circulates from outside the boat that passes through your "raw water" pump and out the exhaust should be full strength for max winter protection.This can be the pink stuff you use for water systems as well. This is different from the antifeeze-coolant on a fresh water cooled engine that is in a closed system and circulates inside engine like a car.This is the closed system with a "radiator-like cap" on the engine block. When this is changed or topped off always follow precise directions (usually mix 50%water/ 50% coolant) because full strength will probably turn to gel inside your engine.
The antifeeze that is used to winterize an engine or relace the water that circulates from outside the boat that passes through your "raw water" pump and out the exhaust should be full strength for max winter protection.This can be the pink stuff you use for water systems as well. This is different from the antifeeze-coolant on a fresh water cooled engine that is in a closed system and circulates inside engine like a car.This is the closed system with a "radiator-like cap" on the engine block. When this is changed or topped off always follow precise directions (usually mix 50%water/ 50% coolant) because full strength will probably turn to gel inside your engine.
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John Power
Anti Freeze
I have a Yanmar YSM12 in my 1977 Hunter. Some time ago, I had taken a course given by the Yanmar Rep in my area. The 50-50 solution you use is fine. Full strength would not protect it any more and could damage some seals. The important thing to consider is if the anti freeze is getting to where it is needed. If the thermostat is closed it is not. For years I have been removing both the intake hose and the exit hose before the exhaust and putting them both in a bucket filled with the 50-50 mixture. I tend to use slightly more than 50% antifreeze because of the water already in the system.I then run the engine until it quite hot. Then I am sure that the thermostat opens and allows the solution to enter the block. Before I do this, I flush out the system with fresh water.
I have a Yanmar YSM12 in my 1977 Hunter. Some time ago, I had taken a course given by the Yanmar Rep in my area. The 50-50 solution you use is fine. Full strength would not protect it any more and could damage some seals. The important thing to consider is if the anti freeze is getting to where it is needed. If the thermostat is closed it is not. For years I have been removing both the intake hose and the exit hose before the exhaust and putting them both in a bucket filled with the 50-50 mixture. I tend to use slightly more than 50% antifreeze because of the water already in the system.I then run the engine until it quite hot. Then I am sure that the thermostat opens and allows the solution to enter the block. Before I do this, I flush out the system with fresh water.
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Pete
anti freeze diluted?
Stephen- some how I would not trust mixing the anti freeze inside the engine block as you did,are you SURE that in mix is even and in all parts of the cooling system? Somehow I think not,if it were my boat I would re-winterize the engine using the proper mix of anti freeze/water.I don't know if this is a raw water cooled engine or has a heat exchanger and a closed cooling system.Either way I would drain the raw water side and muffler before starting to add anti freeze.By draining the block you don't need to worry about the thermostat (if it is a raw water cooled engine)as there is a bypass.If it is a closed(fresh water cooled)cooling system the thermostat is not a issue as that side of the system should have anti freeze in it already.Re-winterize and you will sleep better on the sub-zero nights knowing it was done correctly. Good Luck !
Stephen- some how I would not trust mixing the anti freeze inside the engine block as you did,are you SURE that in mix is even and in all parts of the cooling system? Somehow I think not,if it were my boat I would re-winterize the engine using the proper mix of anti freeze/water.I don't know if this is a raw water cooled engine or has a heat exchanger and a closed cooling system.Either way I would drain the raw water side and muffler before starting to add anti freeze.By draining the block you don't need to worry about the thermostat (if it is a raw water cooled engine)as there is a bypass.If it is a closed(fresh water cooled)cooling system the thermostat is not a issue as that side of the system should have anti freeze in it already.Re-winterize and you will sleep better on the sub-zero nights knowing it was done correctly. Good Luck !
How do you drain the muffler.
Pete: How do you drain the muffler on a Hunter? Most of them that I have seen do not have drains. As far as the antifreeze is concerned, the higher the concentration is the lower the temperature protection is. When it comes to engine overheating, less antifreeze is better. Plain water has better cooling properties than antifreeze/water mixture but does not have any of the anti corrosion and lubrication properties. I really do not any way to flush all the water out of the raw water side if you cannot flush the muffler either.
Pete: How do you drain the muffler on a Hunter? Most of them that I have seen do not have drains. As far as the antifreeze is concerned, the higher the concentration is the lower the temperature protection is. When it comes to engine overheating, less antifreeze is better. Plain water has better cooling properties than antifreeze/water mixture but does not have any of the anti corrosion and lubrication properties. I really do not any way to flush all the water out of the raw water side if you cannot flush the muffler either.
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Pete
drain the muffler
Steve,You are correct that most Hunter mufflers do not have a drain plug(they should)however I used a shop vac and drained the muffler even disconnecting the exhaust hose will help,if you don't have or want to use a shop vac.There are a lot of mufflers that are made with drains new.Reread Stephens original post and see that he added pure undulited anti freeze ("the green stuff") to winterize his engine.Mfg recommends 50/50 and 70/30 in extreme We don't disagree on the properties of anti freeze for cooling and overheating.Check it out pure anti freeze will not give you added protection and may gel in extreme cold.Adding it to a engine that is running will not give you a "MIX"(at least not that I'm comfortable with)At any rate try a shop vac to drain the muffler it may be over kill but I feel better doing it.Even if you don't more importantly to drain the engine block or heat exhanger,no different that draining the radiator in you car. A 50/50 mixture of Prestone and water will protect to -34 and a70/30 mixture will protect to -84.
Steve,You are correct that most Hunter mufflers do not have a drain plug(they should)however I used a shop vac and drained the muffler even disconnecting the exhaust hose will help,if you don't have or want to use a shop vac.There are a lot of mufflers that are made with drains new.Reread Stephens original post and see that he added pure undulited anti freeze ("the green stuff") to winterize his engine.Mfg recommends 50/50 and 70/30 in extreme We don't disagree on the properties of anti freeze for cooling and overheating.Check it out pure anti freeze will not give you added protection and may gel in extreme cold.Adding it to a engine that is running will not give you a "MIX"(at least not that I'm comfortable with)At any rate try a shop vac to drain the muffler it may be over kill but I feel better doing it.Even if you don't more importantly to drain the engine block or heat exhanger,no different that draining the radiator in you car. A 50/50 mixture of Prestone and water will protect to -34 and a70/30 mixture will protect to -84.
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Tim McCarty
Steve, as to the starting issues
I'd thought that I'd solved the problem with cold starting by tightening the leaky fuel lines (air in the lines etc). The engine turns over fine...just won't catch. Again, it's in the cradle right now. I've talked since to people who have actually winterized their engine without starting it. They've done this for years just by using a hand pump, so, I'm guessing that the thermostat does not need to be open. Most people I've talked with use a couple of gallons of "blue pop", so, I'm thinking, that if you were to run the engine for several minutes to warm up, you would be using 10 or more gallons, and, that doesn't seem right. Oh well, I'll be down there on Saturday...I'll talk to a few more people.
I'd thought that I'd solved the problem with cold starting by tightening the leaky fuel lines (air in the lines etc). The engine turns over fine...just won't catch. Again, it's in the cradle right now. I've talked since to people who have actually winterized their engine without starting it. They've done this for years just by using a hand pump, so, I'm guessing that the thermostat does not need to be open. Most people I've talked with use a couple of gallons of "blue pop", so, I'm thinking, that if you were to run the engine for several minutes to warm up, you would be using 10 or more gallons, and, that doesn't seem right. Oh well, I'll be down there on Saturday...I'll talk to a few more people.
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Don
Recycle!
I may be off base here but I'd run both the exhaust and intake into a 5 gal bucket, fill with water and run the engine to heat up the block. It will heat quicker, you can do it in or out of the water and you can get a good carbon monoxide high all at the same time. When you're feelig really bad, it's time to add antifreeze to the bucket and call it winterized Don
I may be off base here but I'd run both the exhaust and intake into a 5 gal bucket, fill with water and run the engine to heat up the block. It will heat quicker, you can do it in or out of the water and you can get a good carbon monoxide high all at the same time. When you're feelig really bad, it's time to add antifreeze to the bucket and call it winterized Don
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Pete
start the engine
Stephen- if you can't start the engine now what makes you think it will start in the spring? Have you tried to blead the fuel system?You may want to hire someone (a good mechanic) and get a lesson on this engine or have you thought about taking the yanmar engine course? You can winterize the engine without running it but you will need to drain the raw water system.then refill with 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water.
Stephen- if you can't start the engine now what makes you think it will start in the spring? Have you tried to blead the fuel system?You may want to hire someone (a good mechanic) and get a lesson on this engine or have you thought about taking the yanmar engine course? You can winterize the engine without running it but you will need to drain the raw water system.then refill with 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water.
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Pete
yanmar help
Stephen another though I had is go to www.yanmarhelp.com and post your question and situation on the discusion board there.It is a execlent site for yanmar engines!
Stephen another though I had is go to www.yanmarhelp.com and post your question and situation on the discusion board there.It is a execlent site for yanmar engines!
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