Engine Alignment

[Dan Anthony]

I'm a first time poster. If this is in the wrong place please set me straight.
I am the 2nd Owner of a 2003 Hunter 356.
Yanmar 3GM30(F) with KMP2 Transmission (2.62 ratio)
Cosmetically the boat was very well maintained. Mechanically I've had a lot of work. I had the boat surveyed. The surveyor said to have the engine alinement checked, among many other things. I'll focus on this issue.
I do my own work and am very capable.
This is a fresh water boat and there is virtually no rust or corrosion on any metal parts.
I removed the 4 bolts from the prop flange where it connects to the transmission. I found the flange very loose on the shaft, the key had been chewed up and gone. The flange was chewed up. After removing the two set screws the flange fell off in my hand. The set screws had augured out large detents in the shaft. At least it was easy to get apart.
I removed the prop shaft and flange and cutlass bearing (it was also loose). I took everything, including the cutlass bearing skeg, to a reputable marine machine shop. They put the prop in the pitch blocks, polished and balanced the propeller. The Propeller Shaft was bent a couple thousands out of spec and was successfully straightened. A new cutlass bearing was fitted and pressed into the skeg. A new flange and key were fitted and faced. I also purchased new zincs and packing material.

The surveyor recommended new motor mounts so I purchased them as well. I got the right ones for front and rear mounts. I adjusted the new mounts as close to the height of the old mounts as I could and put everything back in as close to where they were as I could..

I reinstalled everything. The prop shaft is very near the center of its movement range in the through hull fitting. All the original shims under the mounts are in the right place. Got out my feeler gages and went about aligning the transmission flange to the propeller shaft flange. It was waaaay out! After much back and forth I got the vertical alinement down to about .002". But the side to side wasn't even close, it was off by 1/4" or more. I checked everything I could think of. I had the yard service manager look and he just scratched his head. It looks like it was never right. Perhaps that's why the flange was so chewed up. So I removed the engine mounts and elongated holes where they mount to the stringers. This allowed me, with a lot of effort, to get the engine aligned to about .004" side to side. But the rubber mounts are distorted and not sitting square on top of their bases. It appears the holes in the stringers where the mounts are bolted to the boat hull are not in the correct spot. Its like the engine is twisted. The port side a little forward of the starboard side. I don't know what is square in the boat to measure from.

So this is my dilemma. I've read many forums and posts and all make it seem like getting the engine alinement right is just a matter of patients and back and forth on the mounting adjustments. I've never seen anyone say the factory mounted the engine cockeyed. I feel my next step is to unbolt the motor mounts from the hull. Get the engine and prop shaft aligned by allowing the motor mounts to side around and mark new holes to drill in the stringers then run the lag screws in with the mounts in a new position. I'm guessing one side may be 1/4" or so forward or aft from the original holes.

Is it likely the factory made an error? Or should I look for something I may have done? The new motor mounts are in the same orientation as the original mounts.

 

[Davidasailor26]

I presume you’re doing all this on the hard? The hull twists somewhat when it’s out of the water and the real final alignment should be done after the boat is in the water for a couple days. I don’t know if that’s the reason your alignment is so far out, but it could be contributing.

 

[jssailem]

With the damage you report, the mount settings you are trying to match may have been out. The cause is anyones guess. Original/Previous owner or just because of age. It has been 20 years. In it certainly possible that the engine alignment has shifted in that time. The PO may not have realized the gradual change that occurred.

Were the holes on the mount bases elongated in any way? You may need to just make a minor shift to the mounts to get the proper setup. Initially I have set up the alignment while on the hard out of the water. But once in the water I check it again to see if there has been any movement.

Sounds lik the care you are giving this will serve you well in the long run.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Hi @Dan Anthony and welcome to the site. You're in the right place.

I don't mean to piss on your cornflakes, but I've got to ask the big question : how much do you know about aligning a prop shaft to the Xmission shaft ? You seem to be overly concerned with axial alignment but have not mentioned anything about angular alignment which is the serious one that counts.

But the side to side wasn't even close, it was off by 1/4" or more.

This requires some diligent work to determine what's wrong here.

I've done a few alignment checks and a good realignment job a year after I got my boat new in 1999 and was fortunate enough to have an excellent manual for the job. It's long and detailed but once you understand what you're doing and why, you see that you only do certain procedures once and never again. The only time you might consider redoing those "once only" checks is after seriously ploughing a large rock and hitting the prop.

Study and understand the manual and then ask yourself if you know how to correctly do an alignment job and we'll go from there.

 

[jviss]

I presume you’re doing all this on the hard? The hull twists somewhat when it’s out of the water and the real final alignment should be done after the boat is in the water for a couple days. I don’t know if that’s the reason your alignment is so far out, but it could be contributing.

This is true, and important. There are "fussy" boatyards that disconnect the flange before they haul the boat, to avoid any undue stress on that connection.

I would do it in the water, and make sure you really understand the alignment, i.e., angular as well as axial.

 

[sailcapt340]

My Personal experience, David and Jviss are right on this, good advice. On my 2000 340 same engine and transmission (I believe ) as yours.
While on the hard for the winter layover, my boat has noticeable flex. The head and forward cabin doors do not close as they do while in the water.
In the water they close, latch and lock perfectly fine. On stands, there is approximately 1/16” - 1/8”+ in each door and will not close in the door frame. I never really measured it but is about that.
Also, The aft cabin door does close, the same as in the water. So there is a flex, noticeable to the eye or not.
In the water is best for this adjustment.

 

[Dan Anthony]

As the poster of this question it is incumbent upon me to make the circumstances clear. It seems I missed a couple of steps. I prefer Special K to Cornflakes and I use milk. LOL

The Boat is in the water and has been for a couple weeks or more. The rigging has been tuned professionally. I think the hull is in its "normal" position.

Original Mounts and the new ones each had one hole (round, slightly over sized) on one end and an elongated hole, approximately 3 times wider side to side on the other end. I'm not looking at it right now but I know the new mounts are installed in the same orientation as I found the original ones. I think the front mounts have the elongated hole forward of the engine mounting bolt and the rear mounts have the elongated hole aft of the engine mounting bolt. This arrangement would appear to allow the most longitudinal (side to side) movement of the engine to allow proper alinement.

I am aware of Axial and Angular alinement. Where the propeller shaft comes through the packing gland/stuffing box it can move side to side and up and down a little. I have made rough adjustments to get the propeller shaft very near the center of its movement limits. This should make the propeller shaft centered and parallel to the cutlass bearing. It seems to rotate very freely with no noise. With the propeller shaft in this position I moved the engine to center up the transmission flange with the propeller flange. Center point to center point on the two shafts they are very close to perfect, I think. When I slide the propeller shaft forward to engage the transmission flange the two fit together smoothly. No pushing or pulling necessary, they just slide into place. I'd say the axial alinement is good.

I have also rotated the prop shaft with the transmission held still and then rotated the transmission flange with the prop shaft held still. All the while using my feeler gages to check for any bends or warps in the two flanges. There is none, the relative distances are the same no matter what orientation the two flanges are in.

It is the Angular alinement I'm having a problem with. As I noted in my first post I have further elongated the holes in the motor mounts where they are lag screwed to the stringers. By adjusting the vertical bolts on the motor mounts I can get the difference in distance at the flange 12 o'clock position and 6 o'clock to within .002". probably closer with more effort once I get the side to side (3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) distances closer.

With the further elongated holes in the mounts and using a prybar to force the engine to the side then tapping the mount flanges sideways to the limits and tightening everything down I do have the aliment just .001" out of tolerance (.004"). But the mounts are definitely stretched and stressed to hold the engine in this position.

While the file provided by Ralph (thank you) is the first truly detailed method I've seen in print, I think I've already done mostly the same procedure. I was hopping someone could point out something I just missed or screwed up. I'm thinking Hunter bolted the engine in crooked. I see absolutely no damage or any repairs to the hull that would indicate the hull was hit or wrecked. To fix other things I have had most of the flooring and subflooring out so I've put my eyes on almost every inch of the hulls both inside and outside.

Thank you all for your feedback.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I prefer Special K to Cornflakes and I use milk. LOL

You certainly seem to have a refined palate.

You also seem to know what your doing in an alignment job. You'll have to pardon my initial skepticism as you wouldn't believe the we see from people claiming to know all about shaft alignment. We had one fellow who claimed he did his alignment by eye. Pretty sure he had blue eyes. One blew east and one blew west.

By adjusting the vertical bolts on the motor mounts I can get the difference in distance at the flange 12 o'clock position and 6 o'clock to within .002". probably closer with more effort once I get the side to side (3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) distances closer.

If you're able to get an error of 0.002" in the vertical line, you're doing great on what ............ four inch flanges ? You mention if you can get 3 and 6 o'clock (horizontal line) closer, your vertical points will be closer. I'm not clear here but SOMEBODY'S got to be zero (touching) in there when you measure. Maybe I read it wrong but just keep at it and shoot for something less than 0.001"/inch of flange diameter if you can.

With the further elongated holes in the mounts and using a prybar to force the engine to the side then tapping the mount flanges sideways to the limits and tightening everything down I do have the aliment just .001" out of tolerance (.004").

Are you referring to the Holy Grail of 0.001"/inch of flange diameter here ?

But the mounts are definitely stretched and stressed to hold the engine in this position.

This shouldn't be The mounts should be relaxed.

If you were to loosen lag bolt A and other lag bolts very slightly to allow movement of the engine, then knock pedestal B to the left in order to shift the engine to the left, pedestal B would no longer be aligned with the rubber mount retainer. Align the two pieces by loosening nut C and rotating the retainer to match the pedestal plate. This is done to all mounts as required once alignment has been completed and hope to hell nothing moves.

I feel my next step is to unbolt the motor mounts from the hull. Get the engine and prop shaft aligned by allowing the motor mounts to side around and mark new holes to drill in the stringers then run the lag screws in with the mounts in a new position. I'm guessing one side may be 1/4" or so forward or aft from the original holes.

Did you ever do this ? I'm hoping not as the strength of the holes in the stringer would have been severely compromised with holes that close.

As you checked everything else that could affect the alignment and found nothing, the only conclusions I can some to is :

(A) Hunter did not position the lag bolts correctly (highly unlikely)

(B) the previous owner is responsible for the gross misalignment (extremely likely)

As you first mentioned, the prop shaft coupling was destroyed when you received the boat. The shaft must have sounded like thunder when under engine power. Did you take the boat out for a sea trial before the purchase ? You may want to listen very closely to the transmission as something like that may have caused problems within. Maybe if you can run the engine in gear without the flanges connected and listen to the casing with a stethoscope or screw driver you MAY hear something you shouldn't. Like many previous owners, the guy was a grade A jerk. Given unlimited time, you may have discovered something where the mounts attach to the engine or who knows what but something changed for the worse before you received the boat.

From what you've described, I believe the previous owner pulled one hell of a dumb stunt at some time before you received the boat but I can't see where anything you've measured or done has lead to a false conclusion on your part.

 

[Dan Anthony]

It is always prudent to determine the level of experience or competence of someone before you address their questions. In my field I deal with that issue all the time.

The prop shaft flange is about 4" in diameter. The tolerance for the flange gap in the owners manual is 0.003" . when I said I was 0.001" out of tolerance I meant my measurement is exceeding the specified tolerance. In the case noted I'm about 0.004" or 0.001" over the maximum allowed of 0.003". I see no evidence that the engine had be previously moved from where Hunter installed it. its possible the entire hull has twisted in 20 years of use but there are no cracks. Over the winter, when the boat was in its original cradle, I got that with the boat, I had the parts Off the boat. The boat is now in the water and rigging is tuned.

The prop shaft flange and transmission flange are in contact at the 9 o'clock position looking from aft. While I have the gaps at the top and bottom down to around 0.002" difference the flange is zero at 9 o'clock and about 0.025" at 3 o'clock. Using a pry bar (actually a chunk of 2x4) and forcing the mounting basses/pedestals I have the 3 o'clock position down around 0.004" or a little more. But the motor mount rubber is stressed to hold the motor in this position. There is nothing restricting engine movement, all hoses, cables, wiring, etc. can move freely. It appears the mounts are just not in the right place.

I did take the boat on a sea trial. The surveyor was on board. There was a noticeable vibration when under power but not as bad as other used boats I had looked at. The surveyor did look at, and put his hands on, the prop coupling but only noted I should confirm the alinement. As it turns out, once I got it apart, the flange was so loose on the prop shaft I'm surprised a hard reverse didn't pull the shaft right out of the flange. The zinc would have contacted the cutlass bearing skeg so the prop shaft would not have slid out of the packing gland. The boat would not have sunk. But it would have been problematic to get docked.

I have not yet drilled any new holes to relocate the mounts. That will be my last ditch effort. Any lag screw that must be relocated I will fill the original hole with thickened epoxy resin and let it cure before drilling an adjacent hole. I could also tap in a wooden dowel and epoxy that in the hole if it would be better, which method is better? Also, the engine could easily be moved forward or aft a couple inches for all new holes. There is plenty of room and flex in the cables and exhaust pipe and prop/hull cleanness. I would likely move the engine aft so as not to position the propeller any closer to the hull.

When I first started working on the boat I changed the fluids. (Belts, hoses, valve cover O-ring, fuel filters, etc., etc.) The transmission dip stick was broken. The dip stick and threads were in the hole but the part you put your hand on to unscrew it was just sitting there. I purchased a new one, got the old one out. The oil level was low but looked OK. I sucked it out, no chunks, and put new oil in to the proper level. I have run the engine without the prop shaft in forward and reverse, no noise. I have spun the transmission flange by hand, no resistance. I also have had my hands on the transmission while under way and felt no undo vibrations. I think the transmission is OK.

Just so ya know. The previous Owner is a nice guy. I have stayed in touch. I don't believe he knowingly did anything. He kept the boat cosmetically near prefect. I think he hired out all mechanical work and just took the mechanics word that all was OK. Where as I'm very hands on.

 

[jviss]

To the O.P., when you say 'skeg,' I think you mean 'strut.' The fact that the prop shaft was bent is a clue. My guess is that the strut is bent, and that's why you can't line up the flanges.

 

[Tally Ho]

I'm a first time poster. If this is in the wrong place please set me straight.
I am the 2nd Owner of a 2003 Hunter 356.
Yanmar 3GM30(F) with KMP2 Transmission (2.62 ratio)
Cosmetically the boat was very well maintained. Mechanically I've had a lot of work. I had the boat surveyed. The surveyor said to have the engine alinement checked, among many other things. I'll focus on this issue.
I do my own work and am very capable.
This is a fresh water boat and there is virtually no rust or corrosion on any metal parts.
I removed the 4 bolts from the prop flange where it connects to the transmission. I found the flange very loose on the shaft, the key had been chewed up and gone. The flange was chewed up. After removing the two set screws the flange fell off in my hand. The set screws had augured out large detents in the shaft. At least it was easy to get apart.
I removed the prop shaft and flange and cutlass bearing (it was also loose). I took everything, including the cutlass bearing skeg, to a reputable marine machine shop. They put the prop in the pitch blocks, polished and balanced the propeller. The Propeller Shaft was bent a couple thousands out of spec and was successfully straightened. A new cutlass bearing was fitted and pressed into the skeg. A new flange and key were fitted and faced. I also purchased new zincs and packing material.

The surveyor recommended new motor mounts so I purchased them as well. I got the right ones for front and rear mounts. I adjusted the new mounts as close to the height of the old mounts as I could and put everything back in as close to where they were as I could..

I reinstalled everything. The prop shaft is very near the center of its movement range in the through hull fitting. All the original shims under the mounts are in the right place. Got out my feeler gages and went about aligning the transmission flange to the propeller shaft flange. It was waaaay out! After much back and forth I got the vertical alinement down to about .002". But the side to side wasn't even close, it was off by 1/4" or more. I checked everything I could think of. I had the yard service manager look and he just scratched his head. It looks like it was never right. Perhaps that's why the flange was so chewed up. So I removed the engine mounts and elongated holes where they mount to the stringers. This allowed me, with a lot of effort, to get the engine aligned to about .004" side to side. But the rubber mounts are distorted and not sitting square on top of their bases. It appears the holes in the stringers where the mounts are bolted to the boat hull are not in the correct spot. Its like the engine is twisted. The port side a little forward of the starboard side. I don't know what is square in the boat to measure from.

So this is my dilemma. I've read many forums and posts and all make it seem like getting the engine alinement right is just a matter of patients and back and forth on the mounting adjustments. I've never seen anyone say the factory mounted the engine cockeyed. I feel my next step is to unbolt the motor mounts from the hull. Get the engine and prop shaft aligned by allowing the motor mounts to side around and mark new holes to drill in the stringers then run the lag screws in with the mounts in a new position. I'm guessing one side may be 1/4" or so forward or aft from the original holes.

Is it likely the factory made an error? Or should I look for something I may have done? The new motor mounts are in the same orientation as the original mounts.

Did you actually remove the strut? Most people don’t ever remove the strut as getting it back on, aligned properly is difficult.
Lots of good knowledge here, read and understand it. Hopefully it will be helpful and you can get it figured Out.

When I replaced the shaft and coupling and cutlass bearing on my O’Day 322, it all lined up very nicely. I guess I AP was lucky!


Good luck to You.


Greg

 

[Crusty Ol Salt]

Tis the one job I always hated and dreaded for the matter when I was in the Navy..... The alignment of anything was the bane of my existence, even after we went to lasers.

Thx for the great post.

Good luck

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

In no particular order :

Any lag screw that must be relocated I will fill the original hole with thickened epoxy resin and let it cure before drilling an adjacent hole.

Not my choice. Epoxy has little strength as a plug.

I could also tap in a wooden dowel and epoxy that in the hole if it would be better,

Using hardwood dowels like Hickory or Maple would make the area as strong as the original (done properly) although epoxy glues are not recommended as they do not penetrate the two woods as well as a waterproof wood glue will. The dowels should be a snug fit in the holes. Allow for some expansion when the holes and dowels are wetted with glue.

Also, the engine could easily be moved forward or aft a couple inches for all new holes.

Don't move it forward as you may contact the hull as you've said. Don't move it back or you will exceed the max. allowable 1.5 X shaft dia. You say it "could" be moved forward it weren't for the contact problem. Just what is your overhang right now ? The last thing one looks at when on the hard.

But the motor mount rubber is stressed to hold the motor in this position.

I'm still scratching my head trying to see why the rubber is so stressed. Do I understand you to say that slacking off NUT C in post #8 (only in that example) does not bring the upper and lower portion of the motor mounts into alignment. I have the impression that IF you were trying to swing the forward part of the engine to the left to make a calculated improvement, you did not back off on both front mounts at the same time to make the movement. Be careful with the mounts that you don't damage them in this contorted position by putting many engine hours on them. Align the upper and lower body and they will relax and vibrate without damage.

If it were me, before doing anything major in the alignment area, I would want to run the boat for the summer, work on your other upgrades and take a long look for any other possible causes of this misalignment. I don't believe the hull has distorted. I had mine on the hard for 6 months a few years after I bought it and saw NO change in alignment after a month in the water. I'm 99% confident Hunter was not responsible for the problem and 100% confident it was the previous owner's mechanic who was responsible for the problem.

I think he hired out all mechanical work and just took the mechanics word that all was OK.

I guess he had some dock ape work on it at some time but he must have noticed something wrong after the work was done and he should have complained at that time. The boat could not run for 23 years with that amount of misalignment. Seeing as how you're on good terms with the previous owner, pump him for any information on what work was done on the boat. If he can remember anything, maybe there's a detail in there that may give you a clue. This is a real detective job as to "WHAT HAPPENED TO THAT ALIGNMENT".

 

[MikeHoncho]

I just dealt with two loose lag screws. PO repowerd and installed angle aluminum ontop of he stringers then lagged through it into the stingers. I decided to add larger diameter lags. The next size was significantly larger. I had to drill it he aluminum to make them work. I used a drill bit used to drill holes in walls to run wire and a 90 degree angle drill adapter to do it Due to extremely limited space. There are a lot of good comments here but I feel some of the ideas are being trivialized by limit of access and space. ”Most correct“ methods need to be balanced with challenges and limitations as long as the accepted method will meet the need and intent.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

There are a lot of good comments here but I feel some of the ideas are being trivialized by limit of access and space.

I would say that a sizeable alignment is one of most frustrating jobs you can do on an engine. I don't want to even THINK of what it's like to start re-drilling holes in the stringers to "see if they fit". And then there's the little matter of the engine hanging over your head, suspended by a come-along while you're doing this. If you're really up for a challenge, do it in the water with a bunch of yahoo neighbours who love to speed as they go by you.

This is why I hope @Dan Anthony does not get to the point where he considers re drilling the holes.

I used a drill bit used to drill holes in walls to run wire and a 90 degree angle drill adapter to do it Due to extremely limited space.

I hear you, but I CANNOT picture the convolutions required to do this. I suppose you were also hanging upside down from the ceiling in order to just get around that one protrusion under the rear support !

 

[jviss]

I cannot stress this enough! It's giving me fits.

Clue number one: the shaft was bent.

Check the strut! I will bet that whatever event bent the shaft also bent the strut, and the bent strut is why you can't align the flanges! Don't start drilling holes until you figure this out!

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I cannot stress this enough! It's giving me fits.

You're always having a fit over something or other so this is nothing unusual as I see it.

I'm confident @Dan Anthony is going along with the write up I gave him and from what he's described he has done, he would have found a bend if one was present.

Don't start drilling holes until you figure this out!

You know it behooves me greatly to agree with you, but yes, this is the only thing you've said I can agree with. There is a hidden reason in there, somewhere, why the alignment is so out at this time. I am positive it did not happen in the Hunter factory.

 

[jviss]

There is a hidden reason in there, somewhere, why the alignment is so out at this time. I am positive it did not happen in the Hunter factory.

I completely agree with this. I'm not quite sure it's so "hidden," though. The shaft was bent. How did that happen, and what else may have been bent when that happened? That's why I suspect it's the strut that's bent that's messing up the alignment, now that the shaft has been straightened.

What else could it be???

What's your theory?

 

[Rjm st.petersburg]

This is what I used to get around sheard lag bolts when I was changing my motor mounts and replaced the starboard shims with aluminum. It worked great. Maybe something like this will work for you rather than moving your engine placement.

 

[Dan Anthony]

To all that have read and responded I say thank you. I had no idea so many would read and comment. As with most things boating has its own vocabulary. To communicate clearly I need to use the customary words.

As I noted in my first post, the propeller shaft was bent a few thousands out of tolerance. The propeller was checked and it was good. The machine shop checked out the strut, yes I had removed it. A new cutlass bearing was installed. What may have bent the prop shaft? I have two speculative theories: A lifting strap a little to far aft and contacting the propeller shaft, OR, someone tried to move the engine without unbolting the flange and bent the propeller shaft. I'm reasonably confident the boat was never grounded and nothing, like a submerged log, ever hit the propeller.

Regarding strut alinement. I made up a metal slug that fit snugly in the cutlass bearing and was a little longer than the cutlass bearing. I then bored a 30 caliber hole in the center along the axis. In this hole I slipped a laser tool for bore siting a rifle. If the laser is good enough to hit the bullseye at a hundred yards it should be good to hit the center of the hole in the trough hull where the propeller shaft goes a couple feet away. I believe the strut and cutlass bearing are adequately aligned.

With the prop shaft in place and the new flange installed and the engine were it is now, everything slides into place smoothly. I believe the strut, packing gland and transmission flange are in the right places.

But to get the engine in this position I had to really stress and distort the engine mounts. I'm not happy with this.
I did some more research. Per the Yanmar 3GM30f data sheet the front engine mount hole should be 192mm from the face plane of the crankshaft v-pully. (It is on both sides I've checked) The base of the mount is 205mm with the mounting bolt in the center, so about 102mm from the center of the mount to the edge of base. 192 - 102 = 90mm. So the forward edge of the motor mount base should be 90mm aft of the crankshaft v-pully face. On the Port side this is the measurement. On the starboard side, the side with the most deflection on the rubber, the base is 6-7mm closer. I have the same 6-7mm difference from the front of the fiberglass curb where the engine cover rests but I don't know if this curb is square to the boat. I have not yet checked the rear mounts.

This is where I start making assumptions. If I'm wrong please point it out. I assume, since the gap between the propeller shaft flange and the transmission flange is nearly what it should be, the engine it where it should be. The engine is properly positioned in the boat, needing only minor adjustments to get it within tolerance or better. Hence the starboard mounts need to be repositioned so they are squarely under the engine mounting brackets. They have to move about a 1/4" aft. With the mounts repositioned the motor should rest exactly where it is with no stress on the rubber mounts.

I am not pushing for drilling new holes but I don't see anything else that would cause the engine to be so out of align. I know its unlikely I have the only boat Hunter ever placed their drilling jig in the wrong place. But I have to deal with things as they are today.

As to how I can do the drilling work. I have the tools and equipment to do it. I do not have to remove the engine or lift it more than an inch or two. I've already had all the mounts removed and reinstalled several times elongating the lag bolt holes. I believe I have sufficient room to work. It wont be fun but its doable.

I have hard wood dowels, water proof wood glue, 4200, etc.

Throughout this saga I've not seen any evidence of damage or repairs to the hull or engine supports or anything in the area of the engine. When I first removed the original mounts they were bedded with what I believe was 4200. I saw no evidence that the mounts had ever been moved from where the factory put them. I've looked hard.