Any brethren out there have some knowledge of electrical systems in sailboats. My bilge pump works (which is on a separate panel) but all of the remaining electrical systems, outside and inside lights and accessories do not. It seems to me that there is no electricity being supplied to the main panel as opposed to a short in the wire harness somewhere. Are general electricians able to work on boat electrical systems or are there specialists that do that sort of thing. Any useful info. appreciated, thank you. M.C.
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It should be easy to check
with a meter. I am not sure you need an electricians yet. Maybe a lose connection or a blown fuse...maybe be something else stupid! The house lights are on 12 volt DC system. Electricians work 120v AC systems typically, but I am sure could fix you problem.
with a meter. I am not sure you need an electricians yet. Maybe a lose connection or a blown fuse...maybe be something else stupid! The house lights are on 12 volt DC system. Electricians work 120v AC systems typically, but I am sure could fix you problem.
Naw, you can do it your self
Nothing magical about DC in a boat. It goes from point A to B just like water in a pipe. Check for continuity starting at the batteries. Make sure a return path is always present and it'll work.
Nothing magical about DC in a boat. It goes from point A to B just like water in a pipe. Check for continuity starting at the batteries. Make sure a return path is always present and it'll work.
Don't make this mistake
I replaced a perfectly good bilge pump that I thought was dead. In fact, it was simply off because it only activates if the battery dial is on "All." I had on "2" and it got no power. This concludes my knowledge of electricity.
I replaced a perfectly good bilge pump that I thought was dead. In fact, it was simply off because it only activates if the battery dial is on "All." I had on "2" and it got no power. This concludes my knowledge of electricity.
it's hard-wired
The bilge pump SHOULD be hard-wired to the battery, by-passing any switches. This is to idiot-proof (not you, of course) so that someone doesn't turn off the switches or battery and then your boat springs a leak and sinks while you are away. That's why the bilge pump works when you have no power to the panel. Check that battery switch is on, then trace back from the panel to the battery(s).
The bilge pump SHOULD be hard-wired to the battery, by-passing any switches. This is to idiot-proof (not you, of course) so that someone doesn't turn off the switches or battery and then your boat springs a leak and sinks while you are away. That's why the bilge pump works when you have no power to the panel. Check that battery switch is on, then trace back from the panel to the battery(s).
Mark, I may be able to help...
As to the lack of power to the accessories panel, have you checked the main switch and fuse/circuit breaker to see if you have power there? Get yourself a 12 volt test light or voltmeter and start checking for voltage, starting at the panel and working your way back to the batteries. As to having a 'regular' electrician work on marine wiring systems, it really depends on the indvidual electrician. Skill and experience levels vary so much that it would be impossible to say. For basic troubleshooting, any good journeyman electrician should be able to provide at least some basic help. But, the electrical field has so many specialties in it that unless the fellow has had a broad range of experience, he might not know what to look for. I've known guys that have spent 20 years in the trade doing little else but bending conduit. Mind you, bending conduit at the industrial level is damn near an art form, but that doesn't mean that the guy knows squat about low-voltage D.C. systems. Another consideration, troubleshooting is one thing, but installing new wiring on a boat should be left to someone who has a pretty firm grasp of the various rules regarding such things and has experience in the basics of system design. I've done quite a bit of research over the last six months as to how marine systems differ from 'standard' electrical systems and have found that, while there are many similarities, marine wiring does have certain areas that are different, at least in some aspects. (BTW, I'm a licensed electrical contractor/engineer) The National Electrial Code (NEC) covers, in some fashion or another, most aspects of wiring in a marine environment, the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) is more specifically written to address wiring specifically for the marine industry. One big difference between the two is that compliance with the ABYC standards is 'voluntary', while compliance with the NEC is anything but! And, while I don't always agree with the ABYC standards, I feel it's a really good idea to comply with their standards anyway, if for no other reason than to 'CYA'! Anyhow, back to your original problem, check the main switch, main fuse/circuit breaker and see what you find. If you need more help, either post it here or contact me at 'jmade@d-web.com ' Later, Jeff
As to the lack of power to the accessories panel, have you checked the main switch and fuse/circuit breaker to see if you have power there? Get yourself a 12 volt test light or voltmeter and start checking for voltage, starting at the panel and working your way back to the batteries. As to having a 'regular' electrician work on marine wiring systems, it really depends on the indvidual electrician. Skill and experience levels vary so much that it would be impossible to say. For basic troubleshooting, any good journeyman electrician should be able to provide at least some basic help. But, the electrical field has so many specialties in it that unless the fellow has had a broad range of experience, he might not know what to look for. I've known guys that have spent 20 years in the trade doing little else but bending conduit. Mind you, bending conduit at the industrial level is damn near an art form, but that doesn't mean that the guy knows squat about low-voltage D.C. systems. Another consideration, troubleshooting is one thing, but installing new wiring on a boat should be left to someone who has a pretty firm grasp of the various rules regarding such things and has experience in the basics of system design. I've done quite a bit of research over the last six months as to how marine systems differ from 'standard' electrical systems and have found that, while there are many similarities, marine wiring does have certain areas that are different, at least in some aspects. (BTW, I'm a licensed electrical contractor/engineer) The National Electrial Code (NEC) covers, in some fashion or another, most aspects of wiring in a marine environment, the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) is more specifically written to address wiring specifically for the marine industry. One big difference between the two is that compliance with the ABYC standards is 'voluntary', while compliance with the NEC is anything but! And, while I don't always agree with the ABYC standards, I feel it's a really good idea to comply with their standards anyway, if for no other reason than to 'CYA'! Anyhow, back to your original problem, check the main switch, main fuse/circuit breaker and see what you find. If you need more help, either post it here or contact me at 'jmade@d-web.com ' Later, Jeff
Make sure your panel is getting power.
Bill's point is a good starting point. If you don't have a batt switch get a meter and check and see if the panel has power. If you don't have a meter you can go to Walmart and get a cheap one there. I had a very simular problem with my boat when I first got it. Turned out to be a bad crimp at a butt splice.
Bill's point is a good starting point. If you don't have a batt switch get a meter and check and see if the panel has power. If you don't have a meter you can go to Walmart and get a cheap one there. I had a very simular problem with my boat when I first got it. Turned out to be a bad crimp at a butt splice.
Underwater?
Mark, Didn't you say something about this boat being under water at some point? That could be the source of this problem also. The advice given so far is good regarding locating the source of the problem. DC is pretty simple once you understand it. Having said that, I would be cautious with a non-boat oriented electrician. Regular land based wire is different than what is used in boats and connections are really critical. A good boat electrician will sort you out quickly. Also, if this is the boat that had water in it, you may have larger problems sneaking up on you as time goes by depending upon how many connections got wet. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Mark, Didn't you say something about this boat being under water at some point? That could be the source of this problem also. The advice given so far is good regarding locating the source of the problem. DC is pretty simple once you understand it. Having said that, I would be cautious with a non-boat oriented electrician. Regular land based wire is different than what is used in boats and connections are really critical. A good boat electrician will sort you out quickly. Also, if this is the boat that had water in it, you may have larger problems sneaking up on you as time goes by depending upon how many connections got wet. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Electrical works!
Since I posted this querie, I have endeavored to solve my electrical problems. First I replaced the ignition switch on my Yanmar inboard and it turned over, so I knew that a charge was getting to the engine. Then I decided since it was such a nice day on the South Shore of Massachusetts to hell with climbing into the bowels of my boat. So I decided to work on preparing my hull for painting when I looked up and noticed the starboard green front light was on! I entered the cabin played with the cabin light switches and to my amazement, they went on (this boat has been in dry dock for at least two years). For some strange reason after playing with the electrical switch panel and spraying the electrodes with Liquid Wrench all electrical systems strangely are up and running? Has anyone lubricated the corroded electrical systems in their boat with positive results? It apparently worked for me, it seems to eliminate that green corrosion and bring the system back to life! I think the system just needed a wakeup call. Thanks for all advice, Best regards, M.C.
Since I posted this querie, I have endeavored to solve my electrical problems. First I replaced the ignition switch on my Yanmar inboard and it turned over, so I knew that a charge was getting to the engine. Then I decided since it was such a nice day on the South Shore of Massachusetts to hell with climbing into the bowels of my boat. So I decided to work on preparing my hull for painting when I looked up and noticed the starboard green front light was on! I entered the cabin played with the cabin light switches and to my amazement, they went on (this boat has been in dry dock for at least two years). For some strange reason after playing with the electrical switch panel and spraying the electrodes with Liquid Wrench all electrical systems strangely are up and running? Has anyone lubricated the corroded electrical systems in their boat with positive results? It apparently worked for me, it seems to eliminate that green corrosion and bring the system back to life! I think the system just needed a wakeup call. Thanks for all advice, Best regards, M.C.
Get a can of 'de-oxit'...
Hey Mark, glad to hear the lights are back on! If spraying the contacts with liquid wrench seems to have solved the problem, then it's quite likely that corrosion is the culprit here. There is, however, a better product for this. Get a can of 'De-Oxit' and spray down the contacts again, while liquid wrench is a fine product, it's not made for electrical use and I'm not sure what it's long-term effects will be on the contacts. You can get De-Oxit at Home Depot or any decent electronics shop.
Hey Mark, glad to hear the lights are back on! If spraying the contacts with liquid wrench seems to have solved the problem, then it's quite likely that corrosion is the culprit here. There is, however, a better product for this. Get a can of 'De-Oxit' and spray down the contacts again, while liquid wrench is a fine product, it's not made for electrical use and I'm not sure what it's long-term effects will be on the contacts. You can get De-Oxit at Home Depot or any decent electronics shop.
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