Electrical: Splicing Wires

[NancyD]

What is the best way to splice/join two #6 wires together? We use the Ancor "butt splices" for smaller wires but I am not sure if there is a similar product for larger wires. I was going to put terminal rings on both wires, connect them with a small bolt, and wrap them with tape for insulation but I want to do a more professional job if possible.

(Starting a rewiring project, so I will probably have some more questions as we go along...)

 

[KD3PC]

there are "bugs" out there for the job you describe...or you can use more expensive splice connectors that will require a crimp tool..

the bugs are just a "U" shaped metal stamping that you lay the two wires as if they were in line. a small plate slides over the two threaded legs and then a bolt. Tighten, then smack the bug with a plier two or three times, tighten and do it again. Then tape or shrinkwrap...

good to go...

looks like this:

 

[Chuckbear]

You can get butt connectors up to 00 and will need a good crimper for larger wire. You should really not do this and use a single wire run. But if you insist, then either use a connector strip with eye connectors or a butt connector. Chuck

 

[Barnacle Bill]

Depends on the application, but also good ways of connecting wires is by soldering them after twisting them together, or attaching many to a bus bar with ring or fork terminals for multiple wires.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Buy an Ancor ratcheting crimper, the right tools make all the difference in making connections

 

[KD3PC]

Guys this is #6....ancor stuff is for hookup wire and such...

you will need a full blown press or hydraulic crimper to do this stuff and the appropriate size barrels. Likely an investment of $200-500 for the tool...you may be able to use the sledge hammer and barrel crimper...

You are not going to "twist" #6 and solder it, unless you have the right gear....don't even try with your 25-75 watt iron...you will just make a mess...

easier and maybe more cost effective would be to do as Chuckbear says and use a whole new, single piece of wire.

 

[Old Skool Neil]

The pictured connector used to be called a 'Kearney' many years ago in the electrical trade. Now they're called split-bolts.

Count me among those in favor of wire replacement. You said yourself you wanted a more professional installation. Inline splices don't meet the goal (professionalism).

Also, fewer connections = fewer potential problems.

 

[Texas Lake Sailor]

Your other option is to modify your wire run and put in a fuse panel. And then run your wire to the load. This would allow for a proper termination, circuit protection and not having split connectors, which to protect them from the elements really need to be in a panel or enclosure.

 

[Maine Sail]

1 - What is the #6 for?

2- What is it feeding?

3- Will it be directly connected to a battery?

The "professional" way would be one continuous length and considering this stuff is only $1.01 per foot you'd likely spend less than buying the proper crimper, 6ga butt and heat shrink.. Even a Blue Seas power post runs $10.99 which is roughly 11 feet of wire...

6ga Wire $1.01 / Foot (LINK)

P.S. What crimper do you plan to use for the ring terminals?

 

[sailaway78]

I don't like to splice anything

I don't like splices on a boat, and avoid them if at all possible. In total agreement with those who say replace the wire. A #6 wire is pretty big, is going to run something that draws several amps. The results of a splice could be an important device not working at some time in the future. And of course Mr. Murphy lives on boats, and his laws apply.

 

[NancyD]

Update: I found what I needed at http://bluesea.com/category/9/58/productline/overview/405 . Thanks all,

Nancy

 

[Ross]

Be certain to enclose that with heat shrink tubing.