Last week my radio and 12 disk cd changer quit working. This week I found out (just as tropical storm Gabrielle hit) that my automatic bilge wasnt working. I thought it was the switch which I replaced. It still didnt work. Ripped out the pump and tested it on a battery and it didnt work. I could hear the motor wanting to turn. Took it apart and found nothing wrong. The wires in the bilge were corroded (rusted but intact) where I cut the pump free. I never had any problems in brackish lake ponchatrain but am now in a more saline environment. Any ideas on what caused this? Crappy shore power, electrolysis, lightning, Murphy's law? I am almost ready to rip out all electronics and buy a sextant. Thanks!
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No easy answer....
But the most effective one would be to go purchase a good multimeter, then go to your marine store and buy Nigel Calder's "Boatowners Mechanical and Electrial Handbook", read the part on how to use a multimeter, then read the part concerning your boat's electrical system and how to troubleshoot it, and then get to work. It may seem like a pain, but, believe me, any other solution will either be an endless source of frustration, or a huge expense.
But the most effective one would be to go purchase a good multimeter, then go to your marine store and buy Nigel Calder's "Boatowners Mechanical and Electrial Handbook", read the part on how to use a multimeter, then read the part concerning your boat's electrical system and how to troubleshoot it, and then get to work. It may seem like a pain, but, believe me, any other solution will either be an endless source of frustration, or a huge expense.
Tim Schaaf
Do you normally sail out of Cabo San Lucas? We are heading on a cruise in a couple of months. Perhaps you hav some suggestions while the ship stops in port. Warren
Do you normally sail out of Cabo San Lucas? We are heading on a cruise in a couple of months. Perhaps you hav some suggestions while the ship stops in port. Warren
Corrosion
In the '80s the wiring used by hunter was automotive type and not marine grade. Marine grade wire has less permeable insulation, tin plated strands and in the case of battery cables, more of them, and the terminals are tin plated. The proper way to install marine grade conductors is to seal the ends of the terminals with liquid electrical "tape" and marine grade heat shrink tubing. My recommendation would be to start at the batteries and install OO cables with swaged connectors up to the battery switch and work forward to the problem items with new conductors. Don't forget to install new conductors to the alternator and starter motor, including any ground wires. In the process you might even find a loose screw that caused the problem as I did while traveling through pea-soup fog last month. The radar had some "funny" targets and then the autohelm started acting eratically. Fortunately I was able to find a place to anchor to troubleshoot the problems and find a solution. The problem was a loose screw in the panel - diesel engines cause a lot of vibration. My Fluke multitester (as Tim recommended) really helped. The other thing I had to fix this summer were the running lights and conductors which were really corroded.
In the '80s the wiring used by hunter was automotive type and not marine grade. Marine grade wire has less permeable insulation, tin plated strands and in the case of battery cables, more of them, and the terminals are tin plated. The proper way to install marine grade conductors is to seal the ends of the terminals with liquid electrical "tape" and marine grade heat shrink tubing. My recommendation would be to start at the batteries and install OO cables with swaged connectors up to the battery switch and work forward to the problem items with new conductors. Don't forget to install new conductors to the alternator and starter motor, including any ground wires. In the process you might even find a loose screw that caused the problem as I did while traveling through pea-soup fog last month. The radar had some "funny" targets and then the autohelm started acting eratically. Fortunately I was able to find a place to anchor to troubleshoot the problems and find a solution. The problem was a loose screw in the panel - diesel engines cause a lot of vibration. My Fluke multitester (as Tim recommended) really helped. The other thing I had to fix this summer were the running lights and conductors which were really corroded.
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