Electrical Problem At The Bilge Pump

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J

Joe Mullee

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Jun 3, 2004
418
Island Packet Island Packet 29 West River, MD
My bilge pump wasn't working yesterday on my 1983 Hunter34. I have the standard setup using a Rule pump with a West Marine float switch. The wires that carry the power to the pump/switch come from under the sole and are probably original. I looked over the H34 wiring diagram and the wires appear to go back to the electric panel. I can confirm they do not go directly to the batteries though the pump had always come on even when the main switch at the panel was in the off position and the pump does not have its' own switch.

As I went thru a checklist I eventually took the pump out and connected it directly to a battery and it works fine. I then took the multi-meter and checked the wires that run under the sole and carry the power to the pump/switch and it registered 13.4V. So I was thinking it must be the switch. But when I connected the pump directly to the power wires (bypassed the switch) nothing happens. I rechecked everything again and got the same results.

The wires seem to be somewhat corroded so I cut them back a few inches but again I couldn't get the pump to work even though I'm still getting 13.4V thru the wires according to the multi-meter.

Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong?

One more question; is it advisable to re-route the setup to hook the pump/switch directly to the batteries?

Thanks as always.

Joe Mullee
 
Chuckbear

Chuckbear

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Jan 3, 2009
821
Marine Trader 34 Where Ever I am
Joe. I would recommend you wire the pump directly to the batteries. You would go from the battery to an inline fuse close to the battery, to the manual/auto switch to the float switch to the pump. Have you tested the wires after the manual/auto switch? If you are measuring the voltage at the connections from the float switch to the pump, are you using the actual pump ground or are you using another ground? You need to be sure you are checking both positive and negative connections on the pump.
 
D

duality

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May 25, 2004
441
Catalina 400 mkII Harbor
my 84 was wired to the panel but was always hot because it was on the battery side. it also had a manual switch on the panel and a fuse that was on the front of the panel. it also had a led that lit either when it was going off auto or manualy. i think that it came from the factory that way. confirm with one of the experts on this model like fred to be sure.

mike
 
Bill Roosa

Bill Roosa

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Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
My wiring

Here is how mine is wired.

The thick lines are wires and the auto/manual is a switch
 
Dennis W.

Dennis W.

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Nov 28, 2004
209
Hunter 310 San Pedro
Joe, Try using a different device at the connection in the bilge where you are measuring the voltage. It is possible, due to corrosion causing high resistance, to measure voltage but not provide sufficient amps to operate the device.
 
S

Steve Dion

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Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Joe:

Your wiring setup is the same as they did at the factory. This is the correct way to wire them up. You need to have a functional bilge pump regardless of how you leave your battery switch.

I have given up on the seperate float switches. It seems that they fail on a regular basis. I have coverted over to an integrated float/pump. These units have proven to be more reliable for our needs.

I have often thought about having staged bilge pumps. One for the lowest part of the bilge and another one that is staged about 5-6" higher. I may need to add this to my project list.

My project list is long enough now until "death do us part".
 
J

Joe Mullee

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Jun 3, 2004
418
Island Packet Island Packet 29 West River, MD
What About Voltage vs Amps

Denis mentioned trying a different device at the connection.

Joe, Try using a different device at the connection in the bilge where you are measuring the voltage. It is possible, due to corrosion causing high resistance, to measure voltage but not provide sufficient amps to operate the device.

I did do this and the other device also would not work. Any other insight?

Thanks again,
Joe Mullee
 
Dennis W.

Dennis W.

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Nov 28, 2004
209
Hunter 310 San Pedro
Joe, You have a resistance problem, corroded connection or corroded wire. Load test at each connection working back to the batteries. When your load will work you will have found the problem connection or wire run. Good Hunting
 
Franklin

Franklin

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Jul 20, 2005
2,422
Whitby 55 Kemah, Tx
Steve Dion said:
Joe:

Your wiring setup is the same as they did at the factory. This is the correct way to wire them up. You need to have a functional bilge pump regardless of how you leave your battery switch.

I have given up on the seperate float switches. It seems that they fail on a regular basis. I have coverted over to an integrated float/pump. These units have proven to be more reliable for our needs.

I have often thought about having staged bilge pumps. One for the lowest part of the bilge and another one that is staged about 5-6" higher. I may need to add this to my project list.

My project list is long enough now until "death do us part".
Click to expand
I agree the the seperate switches are big pain in the butt, but they do come in handy. Joe: when you do add that second higher pump (backup pump), use a seperated switch so you can also hook an alarm to it. That way you will know if you have a leak BEFORE your floorboards are floating...or...your primary pump is now dead. The important reason to know you have a leak before your boards are floating is that it's much easier to find the leak as it's not covered by the standing water.
 
Bill Roosa

Bill Roosa

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Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
Voltage drop test

Try testing the voltage with the pump in the circuit and float switch up (on). If there is insufficient voltage it will be apparent.

With that said, even if the pump is suffering from low voltage it should do something, centrifugal pumps don't take that many amps even when loaded up.

The circuit you described sounds like there is only the float switch controlling the pump operation. So the circuit would be
always hot terminal
float switch
pump
ground terminal

That is a real head scratcher.
 
S

Steve Dion

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Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Joe have you removed the switch from the panel and check that? I am thinking that there is a grounding problem (intermittent).
 
Mike B

Mike B

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Apr 15, 2007
1,013
Beneteau 43 Baltimore, MD
Re: What About Voltage vs Amps

Without seeing a schematic of you pump cirucit it's difficult to point you in the best direction. However there's another quick way to check the pump and circuit. Connect the Pos (red) wire to the Pos side of the pump. Now take a seperate piece of wire, strip both ends, connect one end to the Neg (black) wire on the pump, hold the other end against a know good ground source. Do not use the Neg wire that's part of the circuit. The pump should run. If it doesn't then you need to T Shoot the Positive side of the circuit. If it does run you need to T Shoot the Negative (ground) side of the circuit. I suspect from your comments that the pump will run and you'll have to work your way back down the circuit from the pump all the way back to the gorund point ofr the Neg wire. Good luck.
Mike
 
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