Electrical Panel

[Terry Cox, Hunter 42, Belle-Vie]

Mark, your question about what type of wood...

to use for a tongue and groove liner, assuming you have the tools to trim and mold tongue and groove, I would use the following woods in priority:1. Teak.2. Mahogany.3. Redwood.4. Cedar.5. Oak.6. Ash.7. Birch.8. Fir.9. Spruce.10. HemlockThe first four woods are dark, naturally resistant to decay and stable in moist environments. Cedar and Redwood are too but are softer, Cedar being the softest. The last three conifers are lighter, cost less but are not very stable where moisture is present, unless thoroughly kiln dried and sealed. Hemlock is one of the hardest and brittle conifers.Woods five through seven are all good light colored woods, just harder to work with. Many of your larger specialty lumber companies (not Home Depot) carry 5/16 inch (I think) vertical grain cut clear grade tongue and groove cedar that would make a nice hull liner material. That would be among my first more cost effective choices. Soft to the eye and touch, pleasant aroma, glues well, and easy to work with. I would leave it natural and not seal it inside the boat. Terry

 

[Stephen Fierro]

Sometimes I wish it were like a car

I have spent years rebuilding everything from snowmobiles to motorcycles to cars. THEY ALL HAD MANUALS!!!! I have just bought a 74 Hunter 25, and it's my first boat. What is amazing to me is that there is no definitive answer on how everything was meant to be. There is no manual. The other thing that bothers me is that you have NO IDEA what was done by a previous owner. Detailed pictures of every aspect of what my boat originally looked like would be awesome. This site is the best thing hunter owners have and the information is hard to get a definitive answer. It is great that we all have someone to turn to that is willing to help. My electrical panel seems to be always on. It is located as you step into the cabin. The battery connects under it. Each switch seems to turn on an individual feature. I have only figured out what three of the switches turn on. The radio, running lights, and interior lights. I have a lot more important projects first than chasing the wires. As you can see by the picture the paint is peeling all over the interior so that is first. I have what I need to run. A picture is worth a thousand words so here it is. Can anyone tell me if this is original?

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

Anchor Light & Steaming light.

At least that is what I would presume the 2 switches marked no idea should be. Top of the mast and mid-mast, they both might be hard to see in plain daylight. Try at night. The starter type button on bottom right corner is probably a trip switch to check voltage on the voltmeter you say does not work. Many system are like that to avoid the VM draining the battery. Good luck

 

[Mark]

Electrical Panel author

Hello, I'm the original author of this post, since posting this querie, I have been able to get the electrical in my Hunter 25 1976 going. I simply made a last ditch effort by spraying the connections to the panel with "Liquid Wrench". I've been told that may have cleaned the oxidation from the connections however I've also been told to use a product specifically made for that sort of thing by the name (I believe) of de-oxide. In addition, looks as if you need to replace your panel all together. I have a basic wire and plumbing schematic for the Hunter 25 (not very detail) if you want it, email me a fax number and I will fax them to you. I printed it off the internet but I don't remember where I got them from. email: mcrociati@aol.com