Just bought an old Hunter. The electricity doesn't seemed to work other than the bilge pump. Can anyone tell me if there is a main turn on circuit to the panel. Do I have to turn the key on for the inboard in order for the panel to recieve juice. Any suggestions appreciated, Thanks. Mark
- Status
Mark, what juice do you mean, AC or DC?...
What size boat do you have? Most Hunters that I know of do not connect the panel activation to an ignition switch. Normally, the ignition and bilge are wired directly to the DC buss. Our H28 had a main switch on the panel for both AC and DC. If you have a volt meter start at the main DC breaker on the panel to determine if you have about 12 volts coming into the breaker. If not, trace the circuit back to the battery and check it there. Some boats have inline fuses that blow. If you have 12 volts at the battery, then check each point along the circuit to determine the source of your problem. Terry
What size boat do you have? Most Hunters that I know of do not connect the panel activation to an ignition switch. Normally, the ignition and bilge are wired directly to the DC buss. Our H28 had a main switch on the panel for both AC and DC. If you have a volt meter start at the main DC breaker on the panel to determine if you have about 12 volts coming into the breaker. If not, trace the circuit back to the battery and check it there. Some boats have inline fuses that blow. If you have 12 volts at the battery, then check each point along the circuit to determine the source of your problem. Terry
Who really knows?
Mark: There are sometimes a battery switch. The bilge pump should operate regardless of this battery switch or the main switch on the panel operating. I doubt that you boat originally had a battery charger or any A/C on board. You really need to just search around to follow any wiring to see if there is a switch in it's line.
Mark: There are sometimes a battery switch. The bilge pump should operate regardless of this battery switch or the main switch on the panel operating. I doubt that you boat originally had a battery charger or any A/C on board. You really need to just search around to follow any wiring to see if there is a switch in it's line.
To Fred:
Hello Fred, my model is the Hunter 25'. I have looked around and tried to trace the wiring, however, it is difficult given the limited amount of room with an inboard on a 25. I am waiting for a key and the ignition panel has a charge light so I thought perhaps I needed to turn the ignition key part way to start the flow of electricity to the electrical panel. It seems that the battery cables are conected directly to the Yanmar first. Any help from your obvious wisdom is appreciated, M.C.
Hello Fred, my model is the Hunter 25'. I have looked around and tried to trace the wiring, however, it is difficult given the limited amount of room with an inboard on a 25. I am waiting for a key and the ignition panel has a charge light so I thought perhaps I needed to turn the ignition key part way to start the flow of electricity to the electrical panel. It seems that the battery cables are conected directly to the Yanmar first. Any help from your obvious wisdom is appreciated, M.C.
Mark ?
Mark, Are you Mark C. from Plymouth who has posted essentially this same set of questions several times this last week? If so, it would help if you provided complete information or references to those posts. If you are not, then the answer to your question has been given and you may ignore the rest of this response. If you are, you need to involve some professional help in evaluating what you have bought. In these various posts you have indicated that the boat may have been submerged, you don't have a key, and you don't understand the basic concepts of the DC electrical system (how it is set-up let alone how it operates). You have been given advice regarding researching circuits and using test meters to evaluate wiring and advice regarding tracing circuits to identify the bilge pump and lack of DC power at the panel issues. Based on your continued posts, it seems apparent that most of this is outside your comfort level. If the boat has been submerged, there may be other issues that are affecting the electrical system or will. AND YOU NEED TO CONSIDER THIS! I indicated such in a previous post. Let us know all the information, including type of boat, circumstances regarding its condition, and your perception of your ability to carry out any DYI investigations or repairs. It might help you to get better responses. People here want to help, and based on the responses so far thay have provided accurate information and advice. It is beginning to appear to me that you are hoping for a simpler explanation to your problems and/or you are avoiding dealing with what may be larger issues on the boat. I think you need to hire someone with the expertise to evaluate your concerns, but that is just my opinion after hooking these threads together. Let us know everything, so we may help. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Mark, Are you Mark C. from Plymouth who has posted essentially this same set of questions several times this last week? If so, it would help if you provided complete information or references to those posts. If you are not, then the answer to your question has been given and you may ignore the rest of this response. If you are, you need to involve some professional help in evaluating what you have bought. In these various posts you have indicated that the boat may have been submerged, you don't have a key, and you don't understand the basic concepts of the DC electrical system (how it is set-up let alone how it operates). You have been given advice regarding researching circuits and using test meters to evaluate wiring and advice regarding tracing circuits to identify the bilge pump and lack of DC power at the panel issues. Based on your continued posts, it seems apparent that most of this is outside your comfort level. If the boat has been submerged, there may be other issues that are affecting the electrical system or will. AND YOU NEED TO CONSIDER THIS! I indicated such in a previous post. Let us know all the information, including type of boat, circumstances regarding its condition, and your perception of your ability to carry out any DYI investigations or repairs. It might help you to get better responses. People here want to help, and based on the responses so far thay have provided accurate information and advice. It is beginning to appear to me that you are hoping for a simpler explanation to your problems and/or you are avoiding dealing with what may be larger issues on the boat. I think you need to hire someone with the expertise to evaluate your concerns, but that is just my opinion after hooking these threads together. Let us know everything, so we may help. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
CHECK THIS SITE
GO TO THIS SITE.....FIND THE H25 STUFF......IT MAY HELP. http://www.ayesail.net/sailing/Hunter/Hunter23_45/index.htm
GO TO THIS SITE.....FIND THE H25 STUFF......IT MAY HELP. http://www.ayesail.net/sailing/Hunter/Hunter23_45/index.htm
how to turn on juice: 4 easy steps
1. Get a new West Marine catalog, and turn to page 633. 2. Familiarize yourself with what a battery switch looks like. (Your boat probably has one of the big, red, round ones, and it probably says "Perko.") 3. Find this switch on your boat. (Can be done by tracing the thick RED lines from the battery, not the BLACK line which grounds to your engine.) 4. Turn it on. (You may also have a "DC MAIN" switch on the panel. If so, turn it on too.) Don't worry about the key, the only difference it could possible make is to trip a combiner selenoid for charging purposes when the engine's running. You don't need an ignition key to turn on your cabin lights. Or let me put it this way: if you do need an ignition key to turn on your cabin lights, you'd better hire an electrician. Fast.
1. Get a new West Marine catalog, and turn to page 633. 2. Familiarize yourself with what a battery switch looks like. (Your boat probably has one of the big, red, round ones, and it probably says "Perko.") 3. Find this switch on your boat. (Can be done by tracing the thick RED lines from the battery, not the BLACK line which grounds to your engine.) 4. Turn it on. (You may also have a "DC MAIN" switch on the panel. If so, turn it on too.) Don't worry about the key, the only difference it could possible make is to trip a combiner selenoid for charging purposes when the engine's running. You don't need an ignition key to turn on your cabin lights. Or let me put it this way: if you do need an ignition key to turn on your cabin lights, you'd better hire an electrician. Fast.
To: Dan, Mark?, Indeed.
Yes Dan, indeed it is I. I decided to change browsers and my info. wasn't recorded. Sorry for burdening you, however the Hunter 25 is a tight squeeze and it's difficult to see inside. I'm not trying to find a simple solution for I realize it may not exist. However, I am trying to pinpoint specifics. I've been sailing since 1976 as a trailer/daysailor (I built my own sailboat from a Glen-L plan). This boat is a bit more complicated and after all these years of sailing, I find myself a neo-phyte. So, please excuse my ignorance but I've learned to be quite a careful detailed fellow. Thanks for all your help. Sincerely, Mark D. Crociati, America's hometown where the Mayflower once sailed.
Yes Dan, indeed it is I. I decided to change browsers and my info. wasn't recorded. Sorry for burdening you, however the Hunter 25 is a tight squeeze and it's difficult to see inside. I'm not trying to find a simple solution for I realize it may not exist. However, I am trying to pinpoint specifics. I've been sailing since 1976 as a trailer/daysailor (I built my own sailboat from a Glen-L plan). This boat is a bit more complicated and after all these years of sailing, I find myself a neo-phyte. So, please excuse my ignorance but I've learned to be quite a careful detailed fellow. Thanks for all your help. Sincerely, Mark D. Crociati, America's hometown where the Mayflower once sailed.
Mark, go for it.
The guys responding, have given you enough info to get you started. Don't be too careful or you'll never learn your boat. After all, what can go wrong? Some blue sparks? They help you see at night so you can wire up the cabin light.
!!!I'm kidding,,,,
The guys responding, have given you enough info to get you started. Don't be too careful or you'll never learn your boat. After all, what can go wrong? Some blue sparks? They help you see at night so you can wire up the cabin light.
!!!I'm kidding,,,,
neo-phyte?
Don't worry, Mark, in these parts you're not even close to being a neophyte. A fellow once asked for advice on this site as to how to get the funny taste out of his holding tank. Now THAT was a neophyte.
Don't worry, Mark, in these parts you're not even close to being a neophyte. A fellow once asked for advice on this site as to how to get the funny taste out of his holding tank. Now THAT was a neophyte.
Not a Burden
Mark, don't be shy about asking whatever questions that you might have. I don't think that you will offend most on this list until you post some ridiculous amount, say, half as much as Fred does.
Mark, don't be shy about asking whatever questions that you might have. I don't think that you will offend most on this list until you post some ridiculous amount, say, half as much as Fred does.
Regulars!
As a new member, it's nice to read comments and suggestions from regulars such as Fred. Keep up the good work Fred. Thanks, M.C.
As a new member, it's nice to read comments and suggestions from regulars such as Fred. Keep up the good work Fred. Thanks, M.C.
Replys and help
Mark, You are entitled to take or leave whatever advice you wish on this board. My concern with the posts were that there were three separate threads on this nearly same issue and in each important information was left out. The most significant being that you think the boat may have been under water. I'm sorry if you thought that my response was because I felt burdened. Actually, if that were the case, I would not have responded at all. I responded because I was concerned about the submersion issue and felt that you might be more interested in getting the power on and not concerned enough about if it were safe to turn on and/or leave on. I read this forum almost everyday because it is very informative. I like to think that my input has on occasion been helpful to others. I've never built a boat, but I've built my share of other things and did the entire electronics installation on my first boat, and designed and managed the installation of the charging system and electronics on the second boat. As time goes by, you may see me talk about the particulars of those installations. You will almost never see a one line answer from me. When I see a post that references things that I have experience with, or posts that create concerns that I think should be considered, I spend the time to post. And, I usually try to include as much detail in that response as I can. I spend that time because this was one of my best resources when I discovered this place right after I ordered my first boat and it only works if we all give the best we can. It is also a place where the information may occasionally be incorrect or incomplete, at least from my perspective. I'll weigh in on those occasions, even if it occasionally rubs someone a little wrong. I'm a sailor with coastal experience, and two boats worth of owners experience now. I've fabricated enough fiberglass to build an airplane and I built my own home and a few hundred others and my navigation skills are not too poor. I'm actually pretty handy and will take just about anything apart to see how it works. There are people on here with much more experience and I respect all of them. Fred is among that list for me also, including a few more local guys like John, Steve D., and Stu and many more from parts far and near. I thought that most of those thoughtful and experienced people would like to know that you are suspicious about whether the boat has been under water when answering questions about the integrity of your electrical system and where your concerns should lie. You deserve the best advice you can get. I'm still having trouble understanding why you have not elevated the questions that come from that potential issue. I think Plymouth would be salt water. I highlighted the issue of the potential damage from water because I don't want you or anyone else to be on a boat when it catches fire. Saltwater intrusion into the electrical system might show up some time from now as a problem. If it does, hopefully it will be just a failed circuit and not something getting hot or shorting out. I'll try to be patient until you want to discuss this issue. You have received good advice regarding the particular questions that you asked, but none of us can see what you are dealing with directly. Chasing down DC wires and understanding what is going where can be difficult as you have pointed out. It is certainly time consuming. Sometimes there are so many wires in one spot that the only way to really tell where they come from is to take them loose and check them end to end for continuity or presence of voltage depending on which method is most appropriate. The wires from my batteries to the battery switch are like that and you have to work practically standing on your head to get your hands into the access let alone a circuit tester and your eyeballs. When tracing your wires be aware that depending upon the DC system and the extent of the installers dedication to standards, the wires may or may not be properly color coded. Just because a DC wire is black or yellow does not mean it is a ground (it should, but it doesn't). And to make it more interesting, a black AC wire is not ground. Does your boat have a hard wired charger or a shore power connection? If so, you also have an AC power system on board. You really do want to avoid those blue sparks with which Fred seems to have some familiarity (hey Fred, do you wear sunglasses when you work on your electrical system?). Make sure that you know which system you are testing for voltage before you hook up the probes. I'm happy to answer any questions you have where my experience would be valuable. You might consider taking a few pictures of what you see next time at the boat and posting. Sometimes that brings a whole new perspective to the advice. Your bilge pump is operating as any of us would expect. It should not be wired through any switch other than a float switch. It should be protected by a fuse. I'm curious how your DC supply is wired. Let us know. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Mark, You are entitled to take or leave whatever advice you wish on this board. My concern with the posts were that there were three separate threads on this nearly same issue and in each important information was left out. The most significant being that you think the boat may have been under water. I'm sorry if you thought that my response was because I felt burdened. Actually, if that were the case, I would not have responded at all. I responded because I was concerned about the submersion issue and felt that you might be more interested in getting the power on and not concerned enough about if it were safe to turn on and/or leave on. I read this forum almost everyday because it is very informative. I like to think that my input has on occasion been helpful to others. I've never built a boat, but I've built my share of other things and did the entire electronics installation on my first boat, and designed and managed the installation of the charging system and electronics on the second boat. As time goes by, you may see me talk about the particulars of those installations. You will almost never see a one line answer from me. When I see a post that references things that I have experience with, or posts that create concerns that I think should be considered, I spend the time to post. And, I usually try to include as much detail in that response as I can. I spend that time because this was one of my best resources when I discovered this place right after I ordered my first boat and it only works if we all give the best we can. It is also a place where the information may occasionally be incorrect or incomplete, at least from my perspective. I'll weigh in on those occasions, even if it occasionally rubs someone a little wrong. I'm a sailor with coastal experience, and two boats worth of owners experience now. I've fabricated enough fiberglass to build an airplane and I built my own home and a few hundred others and my navigation skills are not too poor. I'm actually pretty handy and will take just about anything apart to see how it works. There are people on here with much more experience and I respect all of them. Fred is among that list for me also, including a few more local guys like John, Steve D., and Stu and many more from parts far and near. I thought that most of those thoughtful and experienced people would like to know that you are suspicious about whether the boat has been under water when answering questions about the integrity of your electrical system and where your concerns should lie. You deserve the best advice you can get. I'm still having trouble understanding why you have not elevated the questions that come from that potential issue. I think Plymouth would be salt water. I highlighted the issue of the potential damage from water because I don't want you or anyone else to be on a boat when it catches fire. Saltwater intrusion into the electrical system might show up some time from now as a problem. If it does, hopefully it will be just a failed circuit and not something getting hot or shorting out. I'll try to be patient until you want to discuss this issue. You have received good advice regarding the particular questions that you asked, but none of us can see what you are dealing with directly. Chasing down DC wires and understanding what is going where can be difficult as you have pointed out. It is certainly time consuming. Sometimes there are so many wires in one spot that the only way to really tell where they come from is to take them loose and check them end to end for continuity or presence of voltage depending on which method is most appropriate. The wires from my batteries to the battery switch are like that and you have to work practically standing on your head to get your hands into the access let alone a circuit tester and your eyeballs. When tracing your wires be aware that depending upon the DC system and the extent of the installers dedication to standards, the wires may or may not be properly color coded. Just because a DC wire is black or yellow does not mean it is a ground (it should, but it doesn't). And to make it more interesting, a black AC wire is not ground. Does your boat have a hard wired charger or a shore power connection? If so, you also have an AC power system on board. You really do want to avoid those blue sparks with which Fred seems to have some familiarity (hey Fred, do you wear sunglasses when you work on your electrical system?). Make sure that you know which system you are testing for voltage before you hook up the probes. I'm happy to answer any questions you have where my experience would be valuable. You might consider taking a few pictures of what you see next time at the boat and posting. Sometimes that brings a whole new perspective to the advice. Your bilge pump is operating as any of us would expect. It should not be wired through any switch other than a float switch. It should be protected by a fuse. I'm curious how your DC supply is wired. Let us know. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
And John
That guys name should be posted somewhere as a public health warning. I do not want to go sailing on his boat!! I wonder if that is covered in Peggy's book. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
That guys name should be posted somewhere as a public health warning. I do not want to go sailing on his boat!! I wonder if that is covered in Peggy's book. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Thanks, Dan
I appreciate your wisdon. I now believe the boat has not been submerged but was sitting in the yard for a couple of years. For some reason the cockpit drainage hoses were detached from the transom thru-hulls and drained directly into the vessel. My original suspicion for submersion was a fallen hulliner from the bulkheads. I now believe this decor fell due to age and high humidity within the boat. The electrical panel has some minor corrosion on the leads most likely due to this high humidity. However, there is no such corrosion in the fuses of the panel which I believe would have been so if submerged. The reason I ask dumb questions over and over is due to my limited knowledge of electrical systems. I'm quite handy otherwise but a combination of a tight squeeze, my limited knowledge and not seeing any main switch or red wires leads me to question the system and asked possibly the same question in a different form. I'm a newbie, codle me, care for me, and some day I'll pass the knowledge I learned from elderstatemen such as yourself to others. By the way, it sounds like you are a contractor. I saw a great play by play pictoral of how to replace your hulliner with wood. What type of tongue and groove wood would you recommend to replace my liner? Once again, thanks for all your help, and thank you for your patience and humility! Mark Crociati, indeed, Plymouth is a salt water town, the first bonafide port in this country.
I appreciate your wisdon. I now believe the boat has not been submerged but was sitting in the yard for a couple of years. For some reason the cockpit drainage hoses were detached from the transom thru-hulls and drained directly into the vessel. My original suspicion for submersion was a fallen hulliner from the bulkheads. I now believe this decor fell due to age and high humidity within the boat. The electrical panel has some minor corrosion on the leads most likely due to this high humidity. However, there is no such corrosion in the fuses of the panel which I believe would have been so if submerged. The reason I ask dumb questions over and over is due to my limited knowledge of electrical systems. I'm quite handy otherwise but a combination of a tight squeeze, my limited knowledge and not seeing any main switch or red wires leads me to question the system and asked possibly the same question in a different form. I'm a newbie, codle me, care for me, and some day I'll pass the knowledge I learned from elderstatemen such as yourself to others. By the way, it sounds like you are a contractor. I saw a great play by play pictoral of how to replace your hulliner with wood. What type of tongue and groove wood would you recommend to replace my liner? Once again, thanks for all your help, and thank you for your patience and humility! Mark Crociati, indeed, Plymouth is a salt water town, the first bonafide port in this country.
Lack of red wires
Mark, Thanks, although I'm trying to avoid the "elder" in elderstatesman. I'm happy to hear that you are less concerned about the immersion issue, that should simplify things. You did mention some minor corrosion. You might want to look at that closely. Sometimes untinned wire finds its way into boats and if so, it would probably show up first as corrosion on the exposed leads. Given the lack of red wires in the primary battery wiring, take a look at your battery and see what color wire is hooked to the positive terminal. It may well be black, even though this would not be the preferred method of wiring. If so, or any other color besides red, I advise that you mark the ends of any positive post wire with red tape until such time as you might decide to replace the wires. You need to follow this wire to your battery switch (we are assuming you have one) and then on to the DC panel. Again if any color other than red, mark with red tape near the ends. Doing this will make it more clear what goes where and just might prevent you from creating a dead short sometime and those associated blue sparks, not to mention heat or a fire. Sometimes it is easier to follow the wire if you have two people. If not, you can do it with a meter. Leave the positive post wire hooked up and disconnect the suspected other end from the battery switch (again, we are assuming that exists) or wherever you think it runs to. Then set your voltage meter at an appropriate scale to read 12 volts DC and place the black probe on an appropriate ground and the red probe onto the end of the suspected and disconnected wire. If it reads 12 volts or in that general neighborhood you know only two things at this point. These are that the wire you are attached to has voltage from the battery and you have found a ground connection that is continuous back to the negative terminal of the battery. You do not yet know that the wire end on the disconnected side is the same continuous wire that is hooked to the battery on the other side, although with a one battery system, that is likely. The only way to verify that it is a continuous run (without an intermediate splice, terminal, or branch) is to trace it. As I said earlier, sometimes two people help in that you can have someone tug on it from one side of a conduit or chase area while you feel for the same movement on the other side. If you can verify that movement and there are no other wires eminating from that area that you can't account for, you probably know you do not have a hidden problem. It's a little tedious. You might also take some masking tape that you can write on and mark the wires as you trace them. Should not take too long before you are able to diagram where everything is running. As I said in the earlier post, sometimes people go out and buy a bunch of black heavy gauge wire and just start hooking things up. Sometimes one color might be unavailable. DC current does not know or care about the color of the wire it runs in, but it does know how to find a direct path to ground. We are the ones who are concerned about color and making sure there is no "direct" path to ground. I use to build homes, now I just handle real estate transactions. My knowledge of wood is better versed in framing lumber than finish hard or softwoods that might be used in a boat. I would imagine any lumber that is somewhat resistant to higher humidity dry rot might be appropriate. The only concern I have about T&G would be related to future access to the bottom of any through deck hardware attachments. For example, I have a life raft mounted and I know I'll have to access the backing and nuts again at some point. Getting through T&G would be pretty rough unless you made provisions for those accesses during the install. My newer Hunters have the vinyl fabric headliners that are stretch mounted. I'm sure it makes production sense, but I have not decided what I might need to do someday when it gets damaged or just need replacement. I also have those molded plastic panels in various locations on the boat. I figure someday those will age, crack, etc. At that point in time, I may have to remodel my first boat and I always hated remodels. And my cabinet building skills fall somewhere between sucks and barely adequate from a quality standpoint. I always hired people who had the equipment, skill and patience for that kind of work. Maybe that won't happen until I'm retired and have little else to concentrate on. Let us know what you find regarding the existence of a battery switch, wire colors from the battery, etc. John gave you a pretty good run down on what to hunt for, just don't assume that the wire colors will be correct. As I said before, if you have a digital camera, you might want to snap a few pictures. Loaded with some of that basic information you will find plenty of help here. I think some of us like solving the mysteries that get posted here. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Mark, Thanks, although I'm trying to avoid the "elder" in elderstatesman. I'm happy to hear that you are less concerned about the immersion issue, that should simplify things. You did mention some minor corrosion. You might want to look at that closely. Sometimes untinned wire finds its way into boats and if so, it would probably show up first as corrosion on the exposed leads. Given the lack of red wires in the primary battery wiring, take a look at your battery and see what color wire is hooked to the positive terminal. It may well be black, even though this would not be the preferred method of wiring. If so, or any other color besides red, I advise that you mark the ends of any positive post wire with red tape until such time as you might decide to replace the wires. You need to follow this wire to your battery switch (we are assuming you have one) and then on to the DC panel. Again if any color other than red, mark with red tape near the ends. Doing this will make it more clear what goes where and just might prevent you from creating a dead short sometime and those associated blue sparks, not to mention heat or a fire. Sometimes it is easier to follow the wire if you have two people. If not, you can do it with a meter. Leave the positive post wire hooked up and disconnect the suspected other end from the battery switch (again, we are assuming that exists) or wherever you think it runs to. Then set your voltage meter at an appropriate scale to read 12 volts DC and place the black probe on an appropriate ground and the red probe onto the end of the suspected and disconnected wire. If it reads 12 volts or in that general neighborhood you know only two things at this point. These are that the wire you are attached to has voltage from the battery and you have found a ground connection that is continuous back to the negative terminal of the battery. You do not yet know that the wire end on the disconnected side is the same continuous wire that is hooked to the battery on the other side, although with a one battery system, that is likely. The only way to verify that it is a continuous run (without an intermediate splice, terminal, or branch) is to trace it. As I said earlier, sometimes two people help in that you can have someone tug on it from one side of a conduit or chase area while you feel for the same movement on the other side. If you can verify that movement and there are no other wires eminating from that area that you can't account for, you probably know you do not have a hidden problem. It's a little tedious. You might also take some masking tape that you can write on and mark the wires as you trace them. Should not take too long before you are able to diagram where everything is running. As I said in the earlier post, sometimes people go out and buy a bunch of black heavy gauge wire and just start hooking things up. Sometimes one color might be unavailable. DC current does not know or care about the color of the wire it runs in, but it does know how to find a direct path to ground. We are the ones who are concerned about color and making sure there is no "direct" path to ground. I use to build homes, now I just handle real estate transactions. My knowledge of wood is better versed in framing lumber than finish hard or softwoods that might be used in a boat. I would imagine any lumber that is somewhat resistant to higher humidity dry rot might be appropriate. The only concern I have about T&G would be related to future access to the bottom of any through deck hardware attachments. For example, I have a life raft mounted and I know I'll have to access the backing and nuts again at some point. Getting through T&G would be pretty rough unless you made provisions for those accesses during the install. My newer Hunters have the vinyl fabric headliners that are stretch mounted. I'm sure it makes production sense, but I have not decided what I might need to do someday when it gets damaged or just need replacement. I also have those molded plastic panels in various locations on the boat. I figure someday those will age, crack, etc. At that point in time, I may have to remodel my first boat and I always hated remodels. And my cabinet building skills fall somewhere between sucks and barely adequate from a quality standpoint. I always hired people who had the equipment, skill and patience for that kind of work. Maybe that won't happen until I'm retired and have little else to concentrate on. Let us know what you find regarding the existence of a battery switch, wire colors from the battery, etc. John gave you a pretty good run down on what to hunt for, just don't assume that the wire colors will be correct. As I said before, if you have a digital camera, you might want to snap a few pictures. Loaded with some of that basic information you will find plenty of help here. I think some of us like solving the mysteries that get posted here. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
- Status