Electrical outlet boxes

[Scott T-Bird]

New to me is power and water at my slip! My marina has regular 3-prong outlets in outdoor boxes, no different than I have for the porch outlet on my house. Is this common? I was expecting one of those twist-lock outlets similar to the 20-amp outlet that I have for the plug on my pool filter pump. The 30-amp shore power cord that came with my boat has the twist-lock male connections.

So I haven't been using power yet, but intend to change out to a smart plug for the boat connection anyway. What should I be looking out for in regard to the dockside connection from a safety standpoint?

 

[agprice22]

Read Nigel Calder's Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual. It is excellent.

Thanks,

Andrew

 

[Stu Jackson]

Scott, welcome to the real world!

Even with the Smart Plug, you can buy a 30A to 15A adapter from Marinco for the shoreside connection. Then, when you go to a dock with 30A shorepower, you just keep the adapter on the boat and plug the Smart Plug shoreside into the 30A dock plug.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/marin...straight-adapter-15a-m-30a-f-1piece--12998324

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Come to think of it, I think I may already have one (removed from the boat and on a basement shelf). I'll look for it tonight. I haven't wanted to plug in until I thoroughly examine the wiring from outlets to electrical panel to shore power socket. I've noted that the AC wiring is stranded but I'm not sure if it is tinned (but I'm sure it is original form 1984, so maybe I should just replace anyway). In addition to the smart plug, I plan to make sure I have a galvanic isolator & polarity indicator (my panel has a polarity red light) between the shore power socket & the AC panel and connect the AC panel ground to the negative buss (I disconnected it years ago when not using shore power). The boat came with GFCI for each outlet circuit (I don't know why but I seem to have 2 or 3 circuits). That's from the short explanation on West Advisor. I also have Casey's Sailboat Electrics Simplified which I'll study for guidance as well. In 10 years I've never plugged in yet.

I guess the 15 Amp shore power outlets aren't necessarily a problem, then (nobody else in the marina seems to have a problem!)

 

[Ron20324]

SOMETIMES, marinas will change the outlet to 30, or add a second electric box with a 30, but relize that it's still only 15 amps. At least it SHOULD be waterproof.

 

[Stu Jackson]

I guess the 15 Amp shore power outlets aren't necessarily a problem, then (nobody else in the marina seems to have a problem!)

All it means, Scott, is that the 15A is the most you can "pull" from the dock. Beware of cabin heaters and check the load if you have a water heater (usually 1500 watts). Means you can't have both on at the same time, eh?

 

[lehighsail]

Don't know if it helps or not but it makes the admiral a little happier.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tower-Ma...PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-202510258-_-202510257-_-N

 

[centerline]

I've noted that the AC wiring is stranded but I'm not sure if it is tinned (but I'm sure it is original form 1984, so maybe I should just replace anyway).

In addition to the smart plug, I plan to make sure I have a galvanic isolator & polarity indicator (my panel has a polarity red light) between the shore power socket & the AC panel and connect the AC panel ground to the negative buss (I disconnected it years ago when not using shore power).

The boat came with GFCI for each outlet circuit (I don't know why but I seem to have 2 or 3 circuits). That's from the short explanation on West Advisor. I also have Casey's Sailboat Electrics Simplified which I'll study for guidance as well. In 10 years I've never plugged in yet.

I guess the 15 Amp shore power outlets aren't necessarily a problem, then (nobody else in the marina seems to have a problem!)

using stranded wire for the ac power is not a problem on the boat (very common), but yes, it should be tinned wire....

a yandina galvanic isolator is a very affordable unit that is very quick and easy to install (about 15minutes) due to it NOT having a remote monitor that has to be installed, even though a monitor is a good thing to have. but its easy enough to check the isolator during the routine maintenance... I installed the yandina as soon as I got the boat and planned to install a monitor later, but later hasnt arrived yet...

the different circuits are GOOD... so when you have a problem you know exactly which circuit it is... one better is to have the different circuits (on our smaller boats, usually a port circuit and a starboard circuit) and to have an independently activated GFCI for each outlet, rather than one wired so it will pop when there is a problem somewhere else in the circuit or a device thats plugged into it anywhere along the line.... the problem will then be isolated to the one outlet, rather than the whole circuit going dead, and the problem is located immediately.

the 15amp power is not a problem in its self, but due to the length of run from the meter base, the number of boats using the power, and the cord(s) going into the boat from the power post, the circuit will be quickly be overloaded with an electric heater (or microwave) onboard, as it will pull more amps than the circuit can easily deliver.... but its great for keeping the battery charged, running a fan or watching tv/movie, if equipped..
even with 30amp power we cant run the electric heater and the microwave at the same time, without extreme bogging of the circuit... which is hard on all things connected to the circuit. but 15amp power is infinitely better than no power at all....