I'm getting ready to wire my project boat. (24ft Venture) Since the mast is stepped to the cabin top and electrically isolated; Is there any reason not to use the spar itself as the ground for the lighting circuit?
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Yes
Paul I assume you're talking DC lights. I also assume you don't have an inboard diesel or gas engine. The ground for all your electrical circuits is the negative side of the battery bank. Red is +, either black or the newer yellow is -. You may want to read up some on Calder or Casey. Good luck, Stu
Paul I assume you're talking DC lights. I also assume you don't have an inboard diesel or gas engine. The ground for all your electrical circuits is the negative side of the battery bank. Red is +, either black or the newer yellow is -. You may want to read up some on Calder or Casey. Good luck, Stu
stu is right,
If the mast is isolated then it can not be the ground. you have to use the negative side of the batteries.
If the mast is isolated then it can not be the ground. you have to use the negative side of the batteries.
I would run a separate ground wire
It just makes more sense to me to do it that way. It is not any more trouble and I think it is actually easier to use wire. Possible electrolysis, corrosion of contact points, potential problems with other systems. It is just too easy for this circuit to get accidentally connected into the boats other ground systems, or bonding system. Last but not least, you won't have to read any books about a very complex subject.
It just makes more sense to me to do it that way. It is not any more trouble and I think it is actually easier to use wire. Possible electrolysis, corrosion of contact points, potential problems with other systems. It is just too easy for this circuit to get accidentally connected into the boats other ground systems, or bonding system. Last but not least, you won't have to read any books about a very complex subject.
Dedicated Negative
ALWAYS wire DC circuits with a SEPARATE dedicated Negative Return Wires. NEVER use the isolated mast (or any other metal structure) as a current-carrying DC conductor. This is not an automobile. When practicality requires utilizing a single Negative wire as a common return for several Positive wires; size the DC Negative Return wire to accommodate the TOTAL cumulative current of the DC circuit(s) connected. This may include several separately switched circuits such as : Anchor Light, Nav’ Light, Strobe Light, Masthead Steaming Light, Foredeck & Spreader Lights, etc. I hope I’ve not been to subtle in expressing my opinion.
Regards, Gord
ALWAYS wire DC circuits with a SEPARATE dedicated Negative Return Wires. NEVER use the isolated mast (or any other metal structure) as a current-carrying DC conductor. This is not an automobile. When practicality requires utilizing a single Negative wire as a common return for several Positive wires; size the DC Negative Return wire to accommodate the TOTAL cumulative current of the DC circuit(s) connected. This may include several separately switched circuits such as : Anchor Light, Nav’ Light, Strobe Light, Masthead Steaming Light, Foredeck & Spreader Lights, etc. I hope I’ve not been to subtle in expressing my opinion.
Regards, GordThanks Guys
Appreciate the comments. "Subtle"'s got no place on a sailing boat! It's a given the mast would have to be connected to the neg. batt. terminal. I got to thinking about all the other places the neg would be present; like chainplates and sterneyes that might even be dangerous so it is a dumb idea not even considering corrosion. I will read the books and call on you guys if I need help. Thanks Again!
Appreciate the comments. "Subtle"'s got no place on a sailing boat! It's a given the mast would have to be connected to the neg. batt. terminal. I got to thinking about all the other places the neg would be present; like chainplates and sterneyes that might even be dangerous so it is a dumb idea not even considering corrosion. I will read the books and call on you guys if I need help. Thanks Again!
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