Electrical Consumption

[Jason1271]

I’m putting together an Electrical consumption spreadsheet to accurately build the battery bank on our new 33 and I’m looking for some help. I’m looking for any specifics other Hunter owners may have in regards to Amp draw on any system components. I.E- Lights, both cabin and running, water pumps, sump, bilge, refrigeration, etc... I’ve got some of the instruments from the manufacturer’s website.Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Jack]

Jason I am also interested as my 33 is due in the middle of May. I also am deciding on the number and size of batteries to install. If you get any information by email would you please pass it along to me?

 

[Ed Schenck]

Easier way.

Even if you have all of the documentation "your results may be different". I would suggest simply measuring them. Turn things on, check the meter, write it down.No meter? A DC ammeter, installed with a shunt, is an inexpensive upgrade. A Link 10, 20, 2000, or 2000R is even better. Or check the Blue Seas site. Is this something you are trying to accomplish while waiting for your new boat? Then this is no help, sorry.

 

[FlyBri737]

amp meter..

I got a Link amp meter and I love it! It is going to be the only way to accurately determine YOUR boats consumption...For what it is worth, I would get Don Casey's Sailboat Electric book. It is very plain English and it has a power consumption chart for individual components in it is well..what my experience has been on my H380 is that the fridge is by far the biggest drain. In the summer it can easily drain 90a in a 24 hour period depending on how cold you like your drinks. since the boat is new, I would have as much insulation added during comisioning as possible since that is the biggest factor.The anchor light can be another draw since it is on for 12 hours a lot of the time (1.5 -2.0a x12hours).. I changed mine to an LED which barely shows up on the amp meter.A lot of the other stuff such as autopilot, running lights etc, depends on your type of sailing. I have 440a bank. This roughly gives me 2 days without cranking the engine and that is turning off lights when not is use etc. (since you don't want to go below half the bank) I just added 2 75 watt solar panels to extend that time without engine cranking.. looking foward to the extra day it will give me on the hook...In conclusion.. If you have a fridge in a warm climate. I would count on at least 120a usage a day.sorry to ramble.. to much coffee...Brian s/v CREW REST

 

[Peggie Hall/HeadMistress]

If the boat is new, you should have gotten manuals

or at least some kind of literature for ALL the equipment on it. If you didn't, shame on your dealer...Go back to him and get them. Unfortunately, too many buyers of new boats toss 'em all out with the plastic wrap they take off the cushions. If you did that, you now know one of the reasons why you shouldn't have. If the boat isn't new, and the previous owner wasn't smart enough to keep the manuals, you should be able to get 'em from the various equipment mfrs.Electrical specs including amperage draw should be in them. Actual consumption can be determined by multiply the draw x running time.Most literature also includes maintenance instructions and trouble-shooting guides...which is WHY you should keep 'em. They should be organized into some kind of file--accordian file or 3 ring binder--and kept on the boat.

 

[Terry]

Jason, the suggestions from the previous ...

articles give you good advice to follow. Some of the amp readings that we get from our devices may not apply to your boat because of their larger capacity. Hunter Marine's electrician can probably give you good info specific to your boat model if the boat papers do not.On our P42 each fridge draws about eight amps, but our cooler climate does not force it to run as often. The water pump draws about ten amps. Then you have the AC appliances that draw DC if you have an inverter; microwave, TV/VCR/DVD, etc.Terry

 

[Jason1271]

Thanks

I'm waiting for the boat to arrive, trying to find any and all projects that will help pass the time until the boat arrives. I've got Casey's book, and this is where I got a majority of my numbers from, as well as from consumption on our previous boat. This will probably do for a starting point, and once the boat arrives, I can double check all the manuals, etc. to verify and actually use a meter to check the draw.

 

[Jim Smith]

Hey Jason

While I was at the Hunter factory 2 weeks ago I took several shots of H33's under construction and saw Hull's that were around number 127. I think Hull 127 was the lowest number I saw. Anyway, if you have not seen the pics of what an H33 looks like being assembled then check out the pics on my website:http://sailingforever.home.comcast.net/index.htmlClick on the "Pics of our Hunter Factory Tour, 2/23/04" on the main page.Regards, -Jim-s/v Forever

 

[Barry]

Starting Point

As I posted in another thread, our 33 just arrived today. Because I am trained as an EE, but practice being a realist: The boat comes with 2 group 27 batteries, we added a third group 27 (they all fit under the starboard settee with the Freedom 10 inverter). We have both the front loading refrigerator and the top loading freezer options. I plan on putting a Link 10 on the two batteries tied together to form the house bank. We'll see what the loading is really like this summer.BarryBear Necessity