I have recently purchased a 1991 Legend 37.5 and want to install an electric windlass. The configuration of the anchor locker doesn't seem to lend itself to this upgrade. Has anyone installed an electric windlass on the 37.5. If so do you have any pointers.
Electric windlass
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Vertical electric windlass
Hi Steve I have just fitted a vertical 1000w windlass on my 34 which probably has a similar locker to your boat. I fixed a 20mm wooden plint which covers the back half of the locker and sits just under the locker lid.On top of this I fixed a small rectangle (8 inches x 6inches x 1.75 inches) and the windlass is then bolted through both. I chose the quick windlass as it has a waterproof motor.Then I carefully cut a hole in the locker lid exactly the same shape as the windalss. There is obviously not enough fall in the locker for the chain to flake itself so I have to give it a hand when bringing the anchor up. I am about to install a 2inch plastic pipe from under the windlass through the vee berth and into to void in the bow.This should give the chain enough fall to stack itself and it will put the weight of the chain lower in the boat. An auto bilge pump should take care of any water that finds its way into the void. As I sail in the Med I have to carry heavy gear - 50m 10mm chain (5 eights) + 16kg CQR as most of the anchorages are over 30ft deep,are lined with sea grass and have limited swinging room so the windlass has been fantastic this year.We arrived home on Saturday after 59 days on the boat (only 3 nights in a marina) so its has had a good test and come thru with flying colours. When I get the photos back I will try and scan one of the installation and post it on the site. Andrew
Hi Steve I have just fitted a vertical 1000w windlass on my 34 which probably has a similar locker to your boat. I fixed a 20mm wooden plint which covers the back half of the locker and sits just under the locker lid.On top of this I fixed a small rectangle (8 inches x 6inches x 1.75 inches) and the windlass is then bolted through both. I chose the quick windlass as it has a waterproof motor.Then I carefully cut a hole in the locker lid exactly the same shape as the windalss. There is obviously not enough fall in the locker for the chain to flake itself so I have to give it a hand when bringing the anchor up. I am about to install a 2inch plastic pipe from under the windlass through the vee berth and into to void in the bow.This should give the chain enough fall to stack itself and it will put the weight of the chain lower in the boat. An auto bilge pump should take care of any water that finds its way into the void. As I sail in the Med I have to carry heavy gear - 50m 10mm chain (5 eights) + 16kg CQR as most of the anchorages are over 30ft deep,are lined with sea grass and have limited swinging room so the windlass has been fantastic this year.We arrived home on Saturday after 59 days on the boat (only 3 nights in a marina) so its has had a good test and come thru with flying colours. When I get the photos back I will try and scan one of the installation and post it on the site. Andrew
Photo Forums
I installed a Lofrans vertical windlass (with capstan) on my 1995 h336. Your task should be slightly easier since you have a little more room. My installation, as well as many others, are in the photo forums. Search for "windlass" and you'll see a whole selection of ideas, some of them very creative. Here's what I think I know about doing something like this: 1. Don't do the installation if you can't figure out a way for the chain to fall freely into the chain locker without you putting your hands near the windlass. That way you get to keep all of your fingers. There is usually an area forward of or under the vee-berth. The shallow anchor locker on most 30-40 foot Hunters is not adequate, you'll have to be creative. 2. Learn something about fiberglass. You may have to do some layup or filling & fairing. At the very least you'll need to know how to correctly cut a hole in a cored deck. 3. Putting a separate windlass battery up front makes no sense. 4. Shop on eBay for your windlass. Go to West Marine and you'll pay nearly twice as much. 5. The windlass itself will be less than half the expense of the entire project. The other major expenses are the electrical cables and the rode. I found places on the internet where I had both of these things (cable and rode) made and shipped to me. Again, WM is the place to go for screws, not major components. 6. Rope/chain rodes are wonderful things. 100 Chain/200 Rope makes a great, versatile, relatively lightweight rode for a 30-something cruiser. You'll need a windlass with a rope/chain gypsy if you want to use a combination rode. 7. Try to avoid hacking holes in your boat, other than for footswitches and through-bulkhead wire runs. You'll kill yourself trying to get it looking right. If I had it to do over again, I would have passed on the capstan model and bought a windlass that could have been installed entirely under the anchor locker door. I eventually solved my problem with custom trim pieces made of starboard. I think I spent about $1500 altogether. Don't ask how many hours.
I installed a Lofrans vertical windlass (with capstan) on my 1995 h336. Your task should be slightly easier since you have a little more room. My installation, as well as many others, are in the photo forums. Search for "windlass" and you'll see a whole selection of ideas, some of them very creative. Here's what I think I know about doing something like this: 1. Don't do the installation if you can't figure out a way for the chain to fall freely into the chain locker without you putting your hands near the windlass. That way you get to keep all of your fingers. There is usually an area forward of or under the vee-berth. The shallow anchor locker on most 30-40 foot Hunters is not adequate, you'll have to be creative. 2. Learn something about fiberglass. You may have to do some layup or filling & fairing. At the very least you'll need to know how to correctly cut a hole in a cored deck. 3. Putting a separate windlass battery up front makes no sense. 4. Shop on eBay for your windlass. Go to West Marine and you'll pay nearly twice as much. 5. The windlass itself will be less than half the expense of the entire project. The other major expenses are the electrical cables and the rode. I found places on the internet where I had both of these things (cable and rode) made and shipped to me. Again, WM is the place to go for screws, not major components. 6. Rope/chain rodes are wonderful things. 100 Chain/200 Rope makes a great, versatile, relatively lightweight rode for a 30-something cruiser. You'll need a windlass with a rope/chain gypsy if you want to use a combination rode. 7. Try to avoid hacking holes in your boat, other than for footswitches and through-bulkhead wire runs. You'll kill yourself trying to get it looking right. If I had it to do over again, I would have passed on the capstan model and bought a windlass that could have been installed entirely under the anchor locker door. I eventually solved my problem with custom trim pieces made of starboard. I think I spent about $1500 altogether. Don't ask how many hours.
added a Sprint 600 to my 37.5
it's a vertical windlass that I installed into the foredeck on the starboard side where the furling line orignally went below the deck. It just clears the bottom of the anchor locker where the water fill inlet is located. I relocated the fill outlet to the port side of the locker. The Sprint 600 is a little undersized for this size boat, but works for my use in the Ches bay. And, it was the size that would fit inside the locker without any mods. I think you could mount the next size up Sprint and use a block under the windlass to keep it above the locker bottom in that area. That's my plan if/when I upgrade to a larger windlass. Not at the boat, but can send you pictures of my install next week if you want. dcdon@hotmail.com
it's a vertical windlass that I installed into the foredeck on the starboard side where the furling line orignally went below the deck. It just clears the bottom of the anchor locker where the water fill inlet is located. I relocated the fill outlet to the port side of the locker. The Sprint 600 is a little undersized for this size boat, but works for my use in the Ches bay. And, it was the size that would fit inside the locker without any mods. I think you could mount the next size up Sprint and use a block under the windlass to keep it above the locker bottom in that area. That's my plan if/when I upgrade to a larger windlass. Not at the boat, but can send you pictures of my install next week if you want. dcdon@hotmail.com
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