Electric toilet

[madmax]

I have a Catalina 320 sailboat, and I am planning to replace the old manual toilet with a new electric toilet (Raritan SeaEra QC). The current manual toilet is connected to the intake seacock for seawater.

The new electric toilet will use pressurized fresh water from the freshwater tank. The old toilet is located below the waterline and uses an anti-siphon loop because it draws seawater from outside the boat.

Since the new electric toilet will be installed below the waterline but will use pressurized freshwater, I assume I don't need an anti-siphon loop. Is that correct?

The intake seacock currently used for the manual toilet will be permanently closed. Should I put a cap or something over the seacock? Or is there some type of lock or other device I can use to prevent the seacock from accidentally being opened and potentially causing the boat to sink?

Thank you.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Correct that you won’t need any kind of intake loop anymore, and a cap on the seacock would be best practice. You will still need a backflow preventing valve to keep the head from cross-contaminating the fresh water system. If the Raritan doesn’t come with some sort of solenoid for that you’ll need to get a separate one.

 

[Ward H]

I installed the Sea Era QC on my C30 back in 2019. We love it.
It's designed to use pressurized fresh water from your fresh water tanks safely. No cross contamination. Everything needed to do so is included.

You can also rotate the bowl orientation on the base to allow you to get the best fit. I put the motor on the bulkhead side which allowed me to angle the toilet towards the front of the sink a little bit. This got the bowl a little bit away from the bulkhead and the angle gave me more knee room.

I agree with David, put a plug in the closed seacock but are you sure your head sink doesn't use that seacock as a drain? I know my C30 and a lot of other boats do.

My buddy has a C320 and installed the Sea Era QC in his head. To give him more knee room he cut out a bit of the cabinet base so he could mount it a bit closer to the cabinet.

Ward

 

[sailme88]

Not sure about the pressure tank set up. I installed a water pump next to the house water pump that is dedicated to the head flush. I have a 3 way switch ( 1 OFF 2) in the locker that backs up to the head. Position 2 primes the head at the beginning of the season. Position 1 goes to the flush button. Where depressed it activates the dedicated water pump and the the macerating pump under the head..

 

[colemj]

Not sure about the pressure tank set up. I installed a water pump next to the house water pump that is dedicated to the head flush. I have a 3 way switch ( 1 OFF 2) in the locker that backs up to the head. Position 2 primes the head at the beginning of the season. Position 1 goes to the flush button. Where depressed it activates the dedicated water pump and the the macerating pump under the head..

If you have the same toilet as the OP, then there is no reason for the separate pump and complicated switch.

Mark

 

[sailme88]

If you have the same toilet as the OP, then there is no reason for the separate pump and complicated switch.

Mark

How do think the difference in elevation between the tank and head could be overcome?

 

[colemj]

How do think the difference in elevation between the tank and head could be overcome?

Not sure I understand this question, nor the problem you describe.

An electric FW toilet is plumbed to the house pressure water supply. This makes no difference to height of anything, as the water is pressurized by the house pump like all other fixtures on the boat.

Is your toilet the Sea Era QC with fresh water flush?

Mark

 

[sailme88]

Not sure I understand this question, nor the problem you describe.

An electric FW toilet is plumbed to the house pressure water supply. This makes no difference to height of anything, as the water is pressurized by the house pump like all other fixtures on the boat.

Is your toilet the Sea Era QC with fresh water flush?

Mark

NO...