My eletric head worked and then one day it didn't. Nothing lead up to this problem, no noises or smells (burning). Whats the best way to trouble shoot the problem before I have to wtite a check to someone. It atleast appears I am getting power to the push button flush switch because it has a clicking sound. Thanks for any help, Frank
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To go or not to go
Frank, If you have power at the switch the problem is likely after that connection. If you are ok with electric check and see where the power stops or fails. A VOM or any other power source tool for checking should do. It might just be a simple item. If you are not that handy with electric power and such have someone who has that knowledge look at it for you. It could save you some change. If you have the book on it and the diagram the problem could be fixed easily. If that all fails then get the check book out and sign away. Hope it all works out and can be fixed
Frank, If you have power at the switch the problem is likely after that connection. If you are ok with electric check and see where the power stops or fails. A VOM or any other power source tool for checking should do. It might just be a simple item. If you are not that handy with electric power and such have someone who has that knowledge look at it for you. It could save you some change. If you have the book on it and the diagram the problem could be fixed easily. If that all fails then get the check book out and sign away. Hope it all works out and can be fixed
Jabsco 37010
Can of worms ahead, the motor is shot but removing it is the problem. Stainless flathead screws fused to an iron flanges on the motor screwed into a plastic base. And of course not much handroom even after removing most the hoses and toilet seat. I'm tempted to buy a new unit, it looks like it is only held on by 2 bolts.
Can of worms ahead, the motor is shot but removing it is the problem. Stainless flathead screws fused to an iron flanges on the motor screwed into a plastic base. And of course not much handroom even after removing most the hoses and toilet seat. I'm tempted to buy a new unit, it looks like it is only held on by 2 bolts.
thanks k9piper
I have power to the head's motor but after hitting the flush switch a couple of times the curcuit breaker cuts off. My electrical friend tells me the motor is shot. But see the other reply on this thread about the replacement problems I'm facing. Thanks again Frank
I have power to the head's motor but after hitting the flush switch a couple of times the curcuit breaker cuts off. My electrical friend tells me the motor is shot. But see the other reply on this thread about the replacement problems I'm facing. Thanks again Frank
Replace the toilet...
Replacing only the motor will cost you as much as a whole new toilet...'cuz you'd have to special order the motor--which is the most expensive part of the toilet--for full list price. And it's a LOT easier to drop in a new one than to try to disassemble and reassemble the "works." The Raritan SeaEra http://www.raritaneng.com/products/toilets/electric/sea_era.html is a far more durable toilet, and is designed to be an identical replacement/upgrade for the Jabsco 37010...and you can buy it as either a complete toilet or the "conversion," which is everything but the bowl, seat and lid. A bunch of people here have SeaEras and love 'em....these folks have the best price: http://www.boatfix.com/elec/rarprod.asp (the online store here doesn't carry it). If your toilet isn't already on its own dedicated circuit, put it on one when you reinstall. If it's not on its own separate circuit, anything else on the same circuit that's also on when you flush results in low voltage to the toilet...which can burn out the motor. Btw...All toilet mounting bolts are lag bolts...no nuts...just back 'em out. Afterthought...if there's a vented loop with an electric solenoid valve in the head intake line (which there should be if the head is below the waterline), it's just possible that it's only the solenoid valve that's shot, not the motor. See the "manual" for your toilet here: http://www.jabsco.com/prodInfo/overview/37010-0000_ds.pdf Otoh, if you can hear the motor humming--HUMMING faintly, not actually running--or feel any heat on the housing before the breaker blows, it's the motor.
Replacing only the motor will cost you as much as a whole new toilet...'cuz you'd have to special order the motor--which is the most expensive part of the toilet--for full list price. And it's a LOT easier to drop in a new one than to try to disassemble and reassemble the "works." The Raritan SeaEra http://www.raritaneng.com/products/toilets/electric/sea_era.html is a far more durable toilet, and is designed to be an identical replacement/upgrade for the Jabsco 37010...and you can buy it as either a complete toilet or the "conversion," which is everything but the bowl, seat and lid. A bunch of people here have SeaEras and love 'em....these folks have the best price: http://www.boatfix.com/elec/rarprod.asp (the online store here doesn't carry it). If your toilet isn't already on its own dedicated circuit, put it on one when you reinstall. If it's not on its own separate circuit, anything else on the same circuit that's also on when you flush results in low voltage to the toilet...which can burn out the motor. Btw...All toilet mounting bolts are lag bolts...no nuts...just back 'em out. Afterthought...if there's a vented loop with an electric solenoid valve in the head intake line (which there should be if the head is below the waterline), it's just possible that it's only the solenoid valve that's shot, not the motor. See the "manual" for your toilet here: http://www.jabsco.com/prodInfo/overview/37010-0000_ds.pdf Otoh, if you can hear the motor humming--HUMMING faintly, not actually running--or feel any heat on the housing before the breaker blows, it's the motor.
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