I'm thinking about converting my Jabsco head from manual to electric. Jabsco makes a conversion kit, about $300, so you just replace the pump assembly and run electricity to it. I have a 2004 Hunter 41 but the Jabsco head on my boat is in common use on many boats. Has anyone done this, how difficult, how well does it work, any other advice? Thanks!
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check the archives
I think you will find similar posts to which Peggy responded describing reasons not to do it - I recall among them, excess noise, cost compared to Raritan SeaEra, etc.
I think you will find similar posts to which Peggy responded describing reasons not to do it - I recall among them, excess noise, cost compared to Raritan SeaEra, etc.
Don's right...
The Jabsco 29200 "conversion" draws 24 amps/flush--compared to 16 for most other macerating electrict toilets, makes enough noise to wake the dead, and will last less than half as long before needing repair. If you found it for anything close to $300, I'd love to know where, 'cuz the best price I've ever seen is a lot higher than the price for a complete Raritan SeaEra, and higher than their conversion. So if you've decided to switch to an electric macerating toilet, go with best in its class--the Raritan SeaEra http://www.raritaneng.com/products/toilets/electric/sea_era.html It'll give you reliable trouble-free service for at least a decade longer than anything Jabsco makes. Btw...boatfix.com has the best prices for the SeaEra (and just about anything else): http://www.boatfix.com/elec/rarprod.asp
The Jabsco 29200 "conversion" draws 24 amps/flush--compared to 16 for most other macerating electrict toilets, makes enough noise to wake the dead, and will last less than half as long before needing repair. If you found it for anything close to $300, I'd love to know where, 'cuz the best price I've ever seen is a lot higher than the price for a complete Raritan SeaEra, and higher than their conversion. So if you've decided to switch to an electric macerating toilet, go with best in its class--the Raritan SeaEra http://www.raritaneng.com/products/toilets/electric/sea_era.html It'll give you reliable trouble-free service for at least a decade longer than anything Jabsco makes. Btw...boatfix.com has the best prices for the SeaEra (and just about anything else): http://www.boatfix.com/elec/rarprod.asp
Mistress Peggy is Right On
I took Peggy's advice last year and converted one of my two old heads with the Sea Era. Not the simplest conversion with the check valve and all but done over the weekend by two inebriated old salts with no complications. (we had a designated driller). The only problem is that the new head is about 1/2 inch higher than the old one so I still have the head cover to re-align. Peggy advised the fresh water flush and she is right that it is quiet and appears to be energy efficent. Follow Peggy and you can never go wrong!!!!
I took Peggy's advice last year and converted one of my two old heads with the Sea Era. Not the simplest conversion with the check valve and all but done over the weekend by two inebriated old salts with no complications. (we had a designated driller). The only problem is that the new head is about 1/2 inch higher than the old one so I still have the head cover to re-align. Peggy advised the fresh water flush and she is right that it is quiet and appears to be energy efficent. Follow Peggy and you can never go wrong!!!!
Here's the link to the $300 Jabsco conversion kit
http://www.boatbandit.com/jabsco-electric-head-conversion-kit-3294.aspx Thanks, Peggy, I will follow your advice and purchase the Sea Era freshwater unit. Do you have any idea whether the footprint is similar to my existing manual Jabsco head? I assume that in addition to my existing plumbing, I need to run a freshwater supply line and electrical power? Any other considerations? Thanks so much!
http://www.boatbandit.com/jabsco-electric-head-conversion-kit-3294.aspx Thanks, Peggy, I will follow your advice and purchase the Sea Era freshwater unit. Do you have any idea whether the footprint is similar to my existing manual Jabsco head? I assume that in addition to my existing plumbing, I need to run a freshwater supply line and electrical power? Any other considerations? Thanks so much!
SeaEra Amazing
This may seem a little over the top, but it isn't. I also took Peggie's advice, installing a freshwater SeaEra; I bought the conversion kit and reused the seat. Had to run 10-2 wire for the electrical, but nicely teed the freshwater from the nearby sink. The footprint is different and, in my case, sits perpendicular to the Jabsco installation (which is the normal orientation). Defender will match boatfix's price. Anyways, set it up, gave it a test, pressed the button (and here's the over the top part): Oh my gosh. Quiet; everything gone in a second; simply amazing. For $355, the best investment I've made in the boat. After having pumped and pumped over the years, trying to explain to visitors how to run the manual head, et cetera, the SeaEara finally brings modern accommodations and convenience to our boat. Bob, happy to help with pictures or anything else you need; you can contact me directly or thru here. Couple of comments on installation - measure twice and always buy more. Measured 12' for the 10-2 wire; bought 15' and used every inch of it (simply a law of nature). Used Whale plumbing, which makes the job easier, but if you have other plumbing, that's fine - in my case, had to go from the blue Whale tubing up to the 3/4" for the freshwater intake. At first couldn't figure out how to transition, but there's a solenoid for turning the freshwater on and off and that's where you make the transition. You won't need the saltwater intake; be sure to seal the thru-hull properly, capping it with a brass plug (i.e. don't just shut off the thru-hull or someday somebody may accidentally sink the boat). The only improvement I'm going to make: SailorSolutions sells an inexpensive timer. It's sold to turn off your gas after a designated time. When you press the button to flush, it stops flushing when you stop pressing the button. My wife explained that "she didn't want to look", so I'm going to install the timer to make sure the flush lasts a minimum of three seconds (or something like that). BTW, if you have Peggie's book, it points out that seawater in your holding tank is a major source of stink. With the freshwater flush, it'll help significantly. Good luck.
This may seem a little over the top, but it isn't. I also took Peggie's advice, installing a freshwater SeaEra; I bought the conversion kit and reused the seat. Had to run 10-2 wire for the electrical, but nicely teed the freshwater from the nearby sink. The footprint is different and, in my case, sits perpendicular to the Jabsco installation (which is the normal orientation). Defender will match boatfix's price. Anyways, set it up, gave it a test, pressed the button (and here's the over the top part): Oh my gosh. Quiet; everything gone in a second; simply amazing. For $355, the best investment I've made in the boat. After having pumped and pumped over the years, trying to explain to visitors how to run the manual head, et cetera, the SeaEara finally brings modern accommodations and convenience to our boat. Bob, happy to help with pictures or anything else you need; you can contact me directly or thru here. Couple of comments on installation - measure twice and always buy more. Measured 12' for the 10-2 wire; bought 15' and used every inch of it (simply a law of nature). Used Whale plumbing, which makes the job easier, but if you have other plumbing, that's fine - in my case, had to go from the blue Whale tubing up to the 3/4" for the freshwater intake. At first couldn't figure out how to transition, but there's a solenoid for turning the freshwater on and off and that's where you make the transition. You won't need the saltwater intake; be sure to seal the thru-hull properly, capping it with a brass plug (i.e. don't just shut off the thru-hull or someday somebody may accidentally sink the boat). The only improvement I'm going to make: SailorSolutions sells an inexpensive timer. It's sold to turn off your gas after a designated time. When you press the button to flush, it stops flushing when you stop pressing the button. My wife explained that "she didn't want to look", so I'm going to install the timer to make sure the flush lasts a minimum of three seconds (or something like that). BTW, if you have Peggie's book, it points out that seawater in your holding tank is a major source of stink. With the freshwater flush, it'll help significantly. Good luck.
Phitchcock answered your questions...
A couple of VERY important points: If you want to flush with fresh water, the toilet MUST be the version designed to use pressurized fresh water...never connect a raw water toilet to the fresh water system. ALL electric toilets should be on their own separate dedicated circuit, shared by nothing else--not even cabin lights--that can reduce power to it. Low voltage to the toilet will cause sluggish discharge and damage the motor. So you'll prob'ly have to run a new circuit and install a new breaker. Wire size is determined by the ROUND TRIP distance from the power source...so the wire size one owner used may or may not be the right size for your installation. And finally, a minor correction: While flushing with fresh water does eliminate odors caused by stagnant sea water in the head INTAKE, whether the toilet uses sea water or fresh water makes no difference whatever when it comes to holding tank odor. Any tank odor that previously escaped back through the old toilet did so because the joker valve was worn--the slit in it was no longer a slit, but a hole. That odor is now simply being blocked by the new joker valve in the new pressurized flush water toilet. I prob'ly don't make that as clear as I could have in my book.
A couple of VERY important points: If you want to flush with fresh water, the toilet MUST be the version designed to use pressurized fresh water...never connect a raw water toilet to the fresh water system. ALL electric toilets should be on their own separate dedicated circuit, shared by nothing else--not even cabin lights--that can reduce power to it. Low voltage to the toilet will cause sluggish discharge and damage the motor. So you'll prob'ly have to run a new circuit and install a new breaker. Wire size is determined by the ROUND TRIP distance from the power source...so the wire size one owner used may or may not be the right size for your installation. And finally, a minor correction: While flushing with fresh water does eliminate odors caused by stagnant sea water in the head INTAKE, whether the toilet uses sea water or fresh water makes no difference whatever when it comes to holding tank odor. Any tank odor that previously escaped back through the old toilet did so because the joker valve was worn--the slit in it was no longer a slit, but a hole. That odor is now simply being blocked by the new joker valve in the new pressurized flush water toilet. I prob'ly don't make that as clear as I could have in my book.
Don't tell my wife
I promised her a cleaner smelling holding tank with the fresh water SeaEra. But I also bought Peggie's book so I bet I'll still be able to keep my promise. Yes, the book does point to the intake being the source of stink; my mistake. Paul
I promised her a cleaner smelling holding tank with the fresh water SeaEra. But I also bought Peggie's book so I bet I'll still be able to keep my promise. Yes, the book does point to the intake being the source of stink; my mistake. Paul
Peggie
I have a Wilcox Crillenden head mate model in my new hunter 36 and have heard other owners say how bad it is a lot of pumping. They make an electric conversion for it,is it worth doing or forget about it and change in the future. Nick
I have a Wilcox Crillenden head mate model in my new hunter 36 and have heard other owners say how bad it is a lot of pumping. They make an electric conversion for it,is it worth doing or forget about it and change in the future. Nick
Vented Loop
Actually, the two lines heading off to the left in my photo of the old toilet are to the vented loop. Wouldn't be without one...unless of course I convert to an electric and don't need one! Paul
Actually, the two lines heading off to the left in my photo of the old toilet are to the vented loop. Wouldn't be without one...unless of course I convert to an electric and don't need one! Paul
Aha...
It doesn't look like you have the loop between the pump and the bowl--which is where it belong--in your photo. If the loop is in the line between the thru-hull and the pump, it interferes with the pump's ability to prime. So where'd you put it???
It doesn't look like you have the loop between the pump and the bowl--which is where it belong--in your photo. If the loop is in the line between the thru-hull and the pump, it interferes with the pump's ability to prime. So where'd you put it???
Aha aha
Now Peggie, first of all, this is how it came from the factory. So let's see if Hunter does it right or wrong. She primes great and we've never sunk. Just like your picture, the raw water intake goes to the Jabsco toilet; then it is sent from the back of the pump across the rear of the toilet and up to the loop; back down from the loop and into the back of the toilet bowl. (The loop peaks around shoulder height (above the waterline)). I think the only difference is your picture shows the lines heading immediately upward, while Hunter routes the lines around the back of the toilet and they disappear into the cabinetry. As far as I can tell, exact same setup. Paul
Now Peggie, first of all, this is how it came from the factory. So let's see if Hunter does it right or wrong. She primes great and we've never sunk. Just like your picture, the raw water intake goes to the Jabsco toilet; then it is sent from the back of the pump across the rear of the toilet and up to the loop; back down from the loop and into the back of the toilet bowl. (The loop peaks around shoulder height (above the waterline)). I think the only difference is your picture shows the lines heading immediately upward, while Hunter routes the lines around the back of the toilet and they disappear into the cabinetry. As far as I can tell, exact same setup. Paul
Hokay...
They spent about 25% more for hose than they needed to if they'd simply put the loop on the bulkhead behind the toilet instead of running it over to hide it behind a bulkhead. But at least they did put one in, which is something few boat builders do...and why so many owners don't even have a clue that one is needed.
They spent about 25% more for hose than they needed to if they'd simply put the loop on the bulkhead behind the toilet instead of running it over to hide it behind a bulkhead. But at least they did put one in, which is something few boat builders do...and why so many owners don't even have a clue that one is needed.
Fresh water flush
in this conversion to electric flush and fresh water is there a separate h2o tank needed. Or can you install some kind of check valve to prevent backflow? On the installation for the Electric head, how would you all rate the install difficulty for DIY on a 1-10? Bob
in this conversion to electric flush and fresh water is there a separate h2o tank needed. Or can you install some kind of check valve to prevent backflow? On the installation for the Electric head, how would you all rate the install difficulty for DIY on a 1-10? Bob
Installation and H20 source
First, the water source is the same; you're using the pressurized water to fill the toilet. So unless you wanted to duplicate the pump and all the plumbing, the only source is to Tee off the fresh water to the sink. There is a vacuum break that ensures no backflow from the toilet. You install that well above the toilet and while it somehow keeps the water pressure high, the water will flow downhill into the toilet, never back. The installation is a 4 for ease (10 being difficult as heck). But only if you've tackled similar projects before (for example, a windlass is an 8 to 10 project). The easy part of the installation a) you need new holes for the footprint, but keep one of the old ones and drill 3 new ones, b) fewer hoses to mess with, c) switch is mounted through a easily drilled hole. The okay part of the installation: a) running wire from the fuse box (I'll admit, I cheated and tied my toilet into the same breaker as my windlass; so as long as I'm not raising the anchor when someone's in the head, I'm okay); b)running the water line (managed one major leak, easily fixed with the Whale plumbing). There's a shut-off valve and solenoid to install; crawling around the boat and hiding the lines were no fun. The absolutely ugliest part: removing the old sanitation hose and installing the new one. Be sure to completely flush the line with lots and lots and lots of clean water before opening that up. Be ready for stink. Loosen the clamps, take a big breath, uncouple the hose, gently pull it away, have the new hose ready, already lubed with a little soap, slide it back on, exhale, and then start tightening the bolts to the base. But the first time you push that button and the stuff literally disappears, you will be amazed. The SeaEra macerates, while most electrics do not. Tim Allen would be proud. Paul
First, the water source is the same; you're using the pressurized water to fill the toilet. So unless you wanted to duplicate the pump and all the plumbing, the only source is to Tee off the fresh water to the sink. There is a vacuum break that ensures no backflow from the toilet. You install that well above the toilet and while it somehow keeps the water pressure high, the water will flow downhill into the toilet, never back. The installation is a 4 for ease (10 being difficult as heck). But only if you've tackled similar projects before (for example, a windlass is an 8 to 10 project). The easy part of the installation a) you need new holes for the footprint, but keep one of the old ones and drill 3 new ones, b) fewer hoses to mess with, c) switch is mounted through a easily drilled hole. The okay part of the installation: a) running wire from the fuse box (I'll admit, I cheated and tied my toilet into the same breaker as my windlass; so as long as I'm not raising the anchor when someone's in the head, I'm okay); b)running the water line (managed one major leak, easily fixed with the Whale plumbing). There's a shut-off valve and solenoid to install; crawling around the boat and hiding the lines were no fun. The absolutely ugliest part: removing the old sanitation hose and installing the new one. Be sure to completely flush the line with lots and lots and lots of clean water before opening that up. Be ready for stink. Loosen the clamps, take a big breath, uncouple the hose, gently pull it away, have the new hose ready, already lubed with a little soap, slide it back on, exhale, and then start tightening the bolts to the base. But the first time you push that button and the stuff literally disappears, you will be amazed. The SeaEra macerates, while most electrics do not. Tim Allen would be proud. Paul
One last question
With My current Jabsco I can pump overboard or back to holding tank via the Y valve. I assume I can still do the same? Bob
With My current Jabsco I can pump overboard or back to holding tank via the Y valve. I assume I can still do the same? Bob
Output the same
Whether electric or manual, the "output" from the toilet to the sanitation hose is the same, wherever that leads. Paul
Whether electric or manual, the "output" from the toilet to the sanitation hose is the same, wherever that leads. Paul
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