I just traded in my old smaller boat for a Hunter 34 and one of the differences is that the new one has an electric flush head on it. I am used to being able to pump the bowl on the dry setting so that water is not in the bowl before I go sailing. It doesn't appear that this is an option on the electric flush head. The problem is that the electric head will fill up with water up to about 3 inches from the rim of the bowl... I can't close the seacock and flush it dry because that is bad for the motor - right? There is more than several reasons why this is not a good system, so I know that it is not supposed to be this way. Is there a way to control the amount of water that rinses and fills the bowl? I would rather only have about 2 inches of water or something in the bottom of the bowl. What controls the amount of water going into the bowl and if there is such a thing, how can I tell if it is broke? Thanks.
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Something's definitely wrong...
We just have to figure out what. The toilet should discharge as much flush water as it's pulling in, and water should not rise in the bowl between flushes. So first some questions: What is the make/model of the toilet? Is the problem sluggish discharge--flush water remaining in the bowl, not going down? Or is water rising in the bowl again between flushes? If it's rising in the bowl between flushes, does it happen all the time...or only while underway on the tack that keeps the head intake thru-hull under water?
We just have to figure out what. The toilet should discharge as much flush water as it's pulling in, and water should not rise in the bowl between flushes. So first some questions: What is the make/model of the toilet? Is the problem sluggish discharge--flush water remaining in the bowl, not going down? Or is water rising in the bowl again between flushes? If it's rising in the bowl between flushes, does it happen all the time...or only while underway on the tack that keeps the head intake thru-hull under water?
Questions answered
I am not sure of the make and model of the toilet - I would guess some Jabsco? or something - but I would have to go down to the boat to figure that out (next weekend). The discharge is fine - pumps it all out and it is not coming back through the tank because the water in the holding tank is blue and the water in the bowl is Bay water. The water rises just sitting at the dock - I try to close the seacock before heading out. It is a flush (all gone) and then just a slow filling up of the bowl - each and every time. Thanks for your help!
I am not sure of the make and model of the toilet - I would guess some Jabsco? or something - but I would have to go down to the boat to figure that out (next weekend). The discharge is fine - pumps it all out and it is not coming back through the tank because the water in the holding tank is blue and the water in the bowl is Bay water. The water rises just sitting at the dock - I try to close the seacock before heading out. It is a flush (all gone) and then just a slow filling up of the bowl - each and every time. Thanks for your help!
Ok...I'm pretty sure I know what's happening
Your toilet is below the waterline...and without something between the thru-hull and the toilet to prevent it, water OUTside the boat is seeking its own level INside the boat when the thru-hull is open. With electric toilets, there should an electric solenoid valve--an electric version of a vented loop--in the head intake line...if you go here: http://www.jabsco.com/prodInfo/overview/37010-0000_ds.pdf and scroll down to the drawing on page 2, you'll see it. If there's one installed on your boat, it has failed...call Jabsco for a replacement. If there isn't one, installing one will cure the problem...again, call Jabsco to order one. The part # is 37068-0000 The same solenoid valve is required for all raw water electric toilets that are below waterline except for the one Jabsco "conversion" that has a wet/dry valve (which you've said yours isn't)...so it doesn't matter if the toilet shown in the drawing isn't the one you have. Even with the solenoid valve installed, it may still be necessary to close the intake seacock while underway...'cuz neither it nor a traditional vented loop will prevent water from being forced up a line through an open thru-hull by the pressure of hull against the water...an effect known a "ram water." But it will prevent water from rising in the bowl while the boat is at rest. However, since no device is 100% fail-safe, you should always close ALL seacocks when leaving the boat.
Your toilet is below the waterline...and without something between the thru-hull and the toilet to prevent it, water OUTside the boat is seeking its own level INside the boat when the thru-hull is open. With electric toilets, there should an electric solenoid valve--an electric version of a vented loop--in the head intake line...if you go here: http://www.jabsco.com/prodInfo/overview/37010-0000_ds.pdf and scroll down to the drawing on page 2, you'll see it. If there's one installed on your boat, it has failed...call Jabsco for a replacement. If there isn't one, installing one will cure the problem...again, call Jabsco to order one. The part # is 37068-0000 The same solenoid valve is required for all raw water electric toilets that are below waterline except for the one Jabsco "conversion" that has a wet/dry valve (which you've said yours isn't)...so it doesn't matter if the toilet shown in the drawing isn't the one you have. Even with the solenoid valve installed, it may still be necessary to close the intake seacock while underway...'cuz neither it nor a traditional vented loop will prevent water from being forced up a line through an open thru-hull by the pressure of hull against the water...an effect known a "ram water." But it will prevent water from rising in the bowl while the boat is at rest. However, since no device is 100% fail-safe, you should always close ALL seacocks when leaving the boat.
Btw...don't try to get by with just a vented loop
without the solenoid valve. Vented loop serves two purposes: to create an arch in the line above the waterline, and also to let air into the line to break a siphon. The solenoid valve--which is wired to the flush button--closes the air "intake" in the loop so the toilet can prime to bring in flush water...opens it again when the flush button is released to break the siphon started by priming the toilet. Without the solenoid valve, the vented loop would pull in air that interferes with the toilet's ability to prime, reducing flush water volume...and that causes excessive intake impeller wear...which will send you back here again asking why your toilet has stopped bringing in any flush water.
without the solenoid valve. Vented loop serves two purposes: to create an arch in the line above the waterline, and also to let air into the line to break a siphon. The solenoid valve--which is wired to the flush button--closes the air "intake" in the loop so the toilet can prime to bring in flush water...opens it again when the flush button is released to break the siphon started by priming the toilet. Without the solenoid valve, the vented loop would pull in air that interferes with the toilet's ability to prime, reducing flush water volume...and that causes excessive intake impeller wear...which will send you back here again asking why your toilet has stopped bringing in any flush water.
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