Everyone says sand, but this plywood won't take anymore sanding. Is there a good stripper that will reomove the finish w/o removing the veneer? And does anyone have suggestions for dealing with the chipped veneer? Is there a wood putty or do I need to cut and replace the veneer
Effective stripper for teak/holly ply?
- Thread starter Debra B
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I have never had to take off a finish
so I can't offer much advice there other than the technique and/or product will vary depending on the finish. It may turn out that infact you don't have to strip it all off to refinish. Regarding the chipped veneer. If the damaged area is large maybe bigger than 1/4 in sq, the only option if you want a repair that would pass a visual test is a patch.
so I can't offer much advice there other than the technique and/or product will vary depending on the finish. It may turn out that infact you don't have to strip it all off to refinish. Regarding the chipped veneer. If the damaged area is large maybe bigger than 1/4 in sq, the only option if you want a repair that would pass a visual test is a patch.
Need replacement floorboards?
My bilge boards are in bad shape and I got a name from Precision that I would like to share Jeff Plentovich makes new boards for Precision and could probably make new ones from your old. jeff@qualityplywoodspec.com Good sailing!
My bilge boards are in bad shape and I got a name from Precision that I would like to share Jeff Plentovich makes new boards for Precision and could probably make new ones from your old. jeff@qualityplywoodspec.com Good sailing!
Floorboards
I've been looking at the hardwood flooring, tong n grove at Lowes. Very nice and would be beautiful. I think better than original.
I've been looking at the hardwood flooring, tong n grove at Lowes. Very nice and would be beautiful. I think better than original.
Lowes or Home depot
I just did this this past year. I used some mild stripper from Lowes or Homedpot. They have various strengths listed in terms of time for removal. I tried the weakest variety that was listed for use on antiques and fine furniture. It worked great. My floors were from 1990 vintage and needed help. I spread the stripper on, waited a minute or so and used a steel wool pad to scrub off the soft sticky old finish. Once all was pretty well removed, I went over one last time with stripper and cloth to wipe it all clean. It took time and was not a quick prosess. Just take your time and use plenty of ventilation. Then, about 120-320 grit sanding by hand finished the job. Floors turned out great. Paul
I just did this this past year. I used some mild stripper from Lowes or Homedpot. They have various strengths listed in terms of time for removal. I tried the weakest variety that was listed for use on antiques and fine furniture. It worked great. My floors were from 1990 vintage and needed help. I spread the stripper on, waited a minute or so and used a steel wool pad to scrub off the soft sticky old finish. Once all was pretty well removed, I went over one last time with stripper and cloth to wipe it all clean. It took time and was not a quick prosess. Just take your time and use plenty of ventilation. Then, about 120-320 grit sanding by hand finished the job. Floors turned out great. Paul
What finish?
Depending on what the finish is, you may be able to use a heat gun. My wife just refinished all the varnished teak on our boat, removing the old varnish with a heat gun and metal scrapper. Works pretty easily, although it's time consuming. And no, a hair dryer probably won't get hot enough! Jack
Depending on what the finish is, you may be able to use a heat gun. My wife just refinished all the varnished teak on our boat, removing the old varnish with a heat gun and metal scrapper. Works pretty easily, although it's time consuming. And no, a hair dryer probably won't get hot enough! Jack
Citrustrip
I can't remember how it was spelled on the jug (Citrus Strip? Citrustrip?) but this citrus-based paint/varnish stripper is available at any hardware or paint store. It's relatively non-toxic and fume-free and worked to strip the varnish from my plywood sole panels. If the varnish layer is thick I would suggest leaving the first coat on twice as long as recommended and brush on another coat; that should get the peeling/cracking started. Using a flexible plastic scraper and lots of rags will get the stripped material up without having to do anything drastic like sanding. It may take 3 or 4 coats to get everything off, but it's a gel so it won't run all over everything (tape off the gelcoat areas to keep the stripper from hurting the shine)...
I can't remember how it was spelled on the jug (Citrus Strip? Citrustrip?) but this citrus-based paint/varnish stripper is available at any hardware or paint store. It's relatively non-toxic and fume-free and worked to strip the varnish from my plywood sole panels. If the varnish layer is thick I would suggest leaving the first coat on twice as long as recommended and brush on another coat; that should get the peeling/cracking started. Using a flexible plastic scraper and lots of rags will get the stripped material up without having to do anything drastic like sanding. It may take 3 or 4 coats to get everything off, but it's a gel so it won't run all over everything (tape off the gelcoat areas to keep the stripper from hurting the shine)...
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