Our 1983 C-30 has an oe Edson wheel and this year we've noticed a distinct "pull" to Port when motoring, but does not seem to be a problem when on a reach under sail. I checked and lubricated the cable noting that there is very marginal slack where it attaches to the steering quadrant. I'd appreciate any suggestions or feedback from anyone who has had similar problems and been able to correct the problem. I note that when I attempt to use the auto helm, it seems to overcompensate steering us all over the harbour...so need to fix problem number one first. (Note that when originally installed, the ST 4000+ Autohelm had no problem maintaining a course). Note, I originally posted this on a C-30 forum, but there may be many other boats with Edson Steering having the same issues, (apologies for the redundancy) Barry
Edson Wheel Steering- Balance/Adjustment?
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Engine or prop at fault.
Last year when our engine developed a smoking problem (bad fuel)the normal torque pull to port was magnified three fold. I immediately supected a fouled prop for both maladies but it turned out to be the fuel. If under sail the boat is fine your steering is OK. Check your prop.
Last year when our engine developed a smoking problem (bad fuel)the normal torque pull to port was magnified three fold. I immediately supected a fouled prop for both maladies but it turned out to be the fuel. If under sail the boat is fine your steering is OK. Check your prop.
Wheel Steering problem
Thanks for that Benny, but power seems ok, and no smoke problem ( engine running as smoothly as a diesel ever does. I was wondering if at 15 degrees heel, the rudder "locks in" somewhat, although the wheel seems to stay in position with the right sail trim and little weather helm. I may have to haul the boat for a closer look.
Thanks for that Benny, but power seems ok, and no smoke problem ( engine running as smoothly as a diesel ever does. I was wondering if at 15 degrees heel, the rudder "locks in" somewhat, although the wheel seems to stay in position with the right sail trim and little weather helm. I may have to haul the boat for a closer look.
Barry sound like normal "prop walk"
Nothing that one of those $2500 three blade feathering props can't (sort of )fix. I alsways keep the wheel brake engaged somewhat when motoring. If not and I let go of the wheel, it spins to its stops. To confirm prop walk, motor up to hull speed, then go to neutral, poof! you get a neutral helm.
Nothing that one of those $2500 three blade feathering props can't (sort of )fix. I alsways keep the wheel brake engaged somewhat when motoring. If not and I let go of the wheel, it spins to its stops. To confirm prop walk, motor up to hull speed, then go to neutral, poof! you get a neutral helm.
Odd
The original post seems to indicate the problem is a new devolpment with a boat that Barry is familiar with. Thus, it won't be due to prop walk and the engine is reported to be working fine. Additionally, most prop walk to port is a function of reverse. I think Barry needs to do more experimentation. You say on a reach everything is fine, but what about up wind and downwind and in different conditions? Also, how does the boat respond at different rpms when under power? Is the rudder smooth through it's entire sweep? What happens dead downwind in light air? Lots of things to look at with such a confusing problem, in my opinion. Barry: Be sure to let us know the outcome on this one.
The original post seems to indicate the problem is a new devolpment with a boat that Barry is familiar with. Thus, it won't be due to prop walk and the engine is reported to be working fine. Additionally, most prop walk to port is a function of reverse. I think Barry needs to do more experimentation. You say on a reach everything is fine, but what about up wind and downwind and in different conditions? Also, how does the boat respond at different rpms when under power? Is the rudder smooth through it's entire sweep? What happens dead downwind in light air? Lots of things to look at with such a confusing problem, in my opinion. Barry: Be sure to let us know the outcome on this one.
Assuming a right handed prop ....
in reverse, boat stern goes to port; .... in forward, bow goes to port. Betcha, you have a bent blade ..... ***but NOT an unbalanced blade*** set !!!!!! The bent blade is promoting MORE tip votices than the unbent blade(s) and those tip vortices from the bent blade are adversely impacting on the hull and causing the stern to veer off to starboard (causing the bow to go to port). Put your hand on the hull interior near where the prop spins .... and feel for a 'throb' or is in-sync with the rotation of the prop/shaft when the prop is turning at moderate to high speed and then verify that there is no or little mechanical vibration in the shaft/coupling/engine&trans. If so its probably the prop, its probably bent but NOT unbalanced.
in reverse, boat stern goes to port; .... in forward, bow goes to port. Betcha, you have a bent blade ..... ***but NOT an unbalanced blade*** set !!!!!! The bent blade is promoting MORE tip votices than the unbent blade(s) and those tip vortices from the bent blade are adversely impacting on the hull and causing the stern to veer off to starboard (causing the bow to go to port). Put your hand on the hull interior near where the prop spins .... and feel for a 'throb' or is in-sync with the rotation of the prop/shaft when the prop is turning at moderate to high speed and then verify that there is no or little mechanical vibration in the shaft/coupling/engine&trans. If so its probably the prop, its probably bent but NOT unbalanced.
Edson Steering Pull to Port
Rich, your analysis could be on the mark. The bent prop theory would fit with what I discovered when the boat was hauled last fall. Approximately 20 feet of 1/2" line was wrapped around the prop, which had caused a perceptible change in performance and responsiveness for the last couple of outings of the season. Surprisingly it didn't seem to have and noticeable impact on engine revs, but as I did only very limited motoring to get in and out of the marina, it didn't get to the stage where I thought there was anything out of the ordinary (I attributed the sluggish response to changing winds and currents). On inspection of the cutless bearing and prop, neither appeared to have any damage other than bottom paint had been chipped of the cutless bearing. It is a distinct possibility that a slight bend in a prop blade (2-bladed prop)could be accentuating the prop walk. Thanks For the suggestion. Barry
Rich, your analysis could be on the mark. The bent prop theory would fit with what I discovered when the boat was hauled last fall. Approximately 20 feet of 1/2" line was wrapped around the prop, which had caused a perceptible change in performance and responsiveness for the last couple of outings of the season. Surprisingly it didn't seem to have and noticeable impact on engine revs, but as I did only very limited motoring to get in and out of the marina, it didn't get to the stage where I thought there was anything out of the ordinary (I attributed the sluggish response to changing winds and currents). On inspection of the cutless bearing and prop, neither appeared to have any damage other than bottom paint had been chipped of the cutless bearing. It is a distinct possibility that a slight bend in a prop blade (2-bladed prop)could be accentuating the prop walk. Thanks For the suggestion. Barry
Could also be a bent propshaft
where the 'bend' is causing one blade to come closer to the hull than the other ... and the prop is balanced and the blades are still symmetrical. Easy enough to assay while the boat is in the water .... just put a dial indicator (that measures in 1/1000th of an inch) onto the shaft somewhere near 'midspan', etc., rotate the shaft by hand and look for the 'run-out' on the gage. Eccentricity of a shaft (bend) is easily found with a dial indicator.
where the 'bend' is causing one blade to come closer to the hull than the other ... and the prop is balanced and the blades are still symmetrical. Easy enough to assay while the boat is in the water .... just put a dial indicator (that measures in 1/1000th of an inch) onto the shaft somewhere near 'midspan', etc., rotate the shaft by hand and look for the 'run-out' on the gage. Eccentricity of a shaft (bend) is easily found with a dial indicator.
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