Edson Pedestal Screws

[sailcapt340]

On my 2000 Hunter 340, I am looking to replace 2 of the screws that hold the Edson pedestal Top to the base. They are all 1“ long. I want to make certain of the proper twist, so not to strip out the hole.
While we’re at anchor, I use the 2 in the front of the pedestal to mount a small shelf.
I would like to use another design, a “Stainless steel double end wood and threaded dowel end hanger bolt”.
With so many to choose from and no place to go and match them up to each other, thats why I am asking if anyone knows the exact screw, twist etc.
My plan is to use a Wing Nut on the threaded dowel end to make it easier to put the shelf on and off.
Thank you for the help.

 

[dlochner]

Hard to tell from a photo, they look like #10 self-tapping screws. Nothing special about them.

 

[sailcapt340]

Thank you Dave,
Yeah, same screw all the way around the pedestal top (10 or so).
With so many to choose from and now, with no real place to go and see them side by side, it’s hard to match up.
I did contact Edson, but they said it was a Hunter item and not theirs. I found that odd, always thought the pedestals were like a “drop in place“ item when the boat is being built. I didn’t think it would be an item Hunter would put together during the build. Maybe take apart, but not put together.
I’ll try to match them up locally, using another screw from the pedestal top. If that works, I’ll at least know the proper size and then go look for a stainless screw with threaded dowel end.
Its worth a shot asking here though, some might know.
Thank you again.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

@sailcapt340

Suggest a well stocked Ace hardware, West Marine store or Fastenal store. As for Hunter , if mremory serves me correct, Hunter bought the Edson hardware while the white cover was fabricated by Hunter. Therefore Edson was correct referring you back. You may want to try the next size as stainless steel screw as an alternative

Crazy Dave

 

[sailcapt340]

Dave,
We really do learn something everyday! I never knew that. That’s why some of the screws I have, are pan head and some are flat head. Silently, I always wondered why that was.
Thank you for the clarification.
My search goes on.
Thanks again
John

 

[dlochner]

Dave,
We really do learn something everyday! I never knew that. That’s why some of the screws I have, are pan head and some are flat head. Silently, I always wondered why that was.
Thank you for the clarification.
My search goes on.
Thanks again
John

And sometimes it is just what part is handy.

 

[kloudie1]

A small stainless quick release hinge maybe?
quick release hinge - Google Search

 

[sailcapt340]

Kloudie,
I like your quick release hinge idea. That‘s a design on a lot of boats, I never gave a thought too. I’ll check that out. Thank you.

 

[LloydB]

You might use a stainless steel lag insert into the pedestal then you could switch back and forth with a standard stainless steel bolt to hold the top on when you use it and not leave the studs standing proud when removed. Lag screws are mostly designed to be screwed in and left alone for the most part. No matter how well the threads match.

 

[JamesG161]

Check here for proper info.

Edson Sailboat Steering & Wheels: Pedestal & Steerers

Jim...

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Those look like oval head self-tapping screws and a not very elegant application. First of all, oval heads are not made to be used with flat washers. The head stands proud and doesn't fit the washer. Oval heads are similar to flat heads in that they are intended to be fitted to a recessed receptor - usually accomplished by drilling a recess into the material such as wood or plastic. Oval heads are normally used with a finishing washer that fits the head of the screw. Pan heads look nice enough because they tighten nicely down on a flat surface and distribute the force around the head so it doesn't damage the surface.

Self-tapping screws usually come with a thread count that is described as "coarse" or "fine". Yours look like coarse to me.

Machine screws have a thread count that is described as threads per inch. Common counts are 24 and 30 for small screws.

It sounds like you want a removable application so that you don't have to worry about stripping the receiving material by frequent removal of the screws. (I agree with you that self-tapping course threads can begin to strip with frequent removal) If the receiving material is at least 1/2" thick, I would consider installing stainless steel screw inserts so that you can use machine screws to secure the shelf. Just make sure you match the thread count of the machine screws to the inserts.

I can't tell for sure, but it looks like you have a cover overlapping a base and the screws are intended to secure the cover to the base. It looks like the cover material is relatively thin. You may have to install the inserts to the base (if it is thick enough) and pass the screws through the hole punched in the cover. It's hard to tell what kind of material you are dealing with. If the base is aluminum, you may just need to tap the aluminum to the correct thread.

 

[sailcapt340]

The “stainless steel screw insert” seems to me to be the best route to take as well. I have to wait to get back to the boat this week to get accurate measurements and check the thread. Then start the search to find the insert piece.
The top cover is approximately 1/4” -3/8” thick. Never measured it, but from what I remember seeing and feeling thats about it, 3/8” being the top end, if that. Base is thicker.
Theres no metal in there, all fiberglass. And I don’t see any backing plate in there.
The shelf is held by the screws but braced underneath against the wall of the base. It is only designed to hold drink glasses and cups and a few napkins under. So no real weight at all.
The biggest task is to find the stainless steel insert.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

The biggest task is to find the stainless steel insert.

I recently bought a bag of these just because it's so easy to get them in my mailbox,

https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Stainless-Hard-Wood-Hardwoods-Composites/dp/B0BYSDFVGG/ref=sr_1_4?c=ts&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.k7ZI-H39oXKtiG_i_lngksdE7IyDGYnBg6SzFODwhFZeln-zIDcFMussnvmRoBvo7jrJ-QP5rGiUtUf9HalfoRCK1LAxdTuyaRZYLQBtCCdxOpRuzZanzUFHkBlYOFn1K9yQWpqHOXiZ5_C5Rh6spkYtCOvpRcqybTwOx1hN6_FdG49pmrsLxHCEHE0tEmxsM3DiX2VxBPAON-SLOfbR057y8kUyaauoxkGcFWNEB-4gZef3ceS75V7Y049sCAazkZE7V_c5A53zO-dX-4yXuPx0biQJbasMNnpFwJnm-_I.DuqCy2-oD9EOAYFFwmcn27FUaZGtLpbsmkr1IDWFEvM&dib_tag=se&keywords=Nut%2BInserts&qid=1718050373&refinements=p_n_material_browse%3A17548970011&s=industrial&sr=1-4&ts_id=16410011&th=1

I have bought just the number I need at Home Depot very cheaply but they were brass.

They can be a little difficult to drive into fiberglass only if you don't have the right T-wrench. I used a flat-bladed screw driver that did the job but it wasn't ideal. The blade didn't fit the slot very well.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

If you are going into the original holes, then the threads on the inserts probably not match the self-tapping threads, so trying to find a match will probably be fruitless. My example had 10-24 internal threads. I suspect that if the original self-tappers are #10, the holes will need to be drilled out to the proper size for the external thread (which will obviously be larger than #10). So I think the original thread won't matter. Just be sure the inserts will thread tightly into the holes. If the holes are too big, you will need to relocate the inserts, fill the holes & re-drill, or get bigger inserts, say 1/4 - 20. By the looks of it, I suspect the #10-24 insert size will work.

 

[sailcapt340]

Scott, I took a few photos of the top thickness for you to see. Also re-measured the screws for better accuracy. Your stainless steel inserts are the right idea for my use.
I’ll start looking for 1” long ones, I don’t have much hope for finding the same diameter as the screw, so I will have to drill out the holes in the top to get it fit and snug. But the overall fit and finish will be much better, structurally and aesthetically. By choice, it doesn’t hold any weight to speak of, but is handy as all hell.
I‘m thinking of using a stainless steel flanged threaded wing nut, if available. That would speed the process of putting it on and taking it off for me.

Thank you everyone for the help and ideas. It is all greatly appreciated.