Easier Oil Changes

[Neil McDonald]

This year I decided to do everything possible to make my annual engine oil change an easier job. Doubling an older body into a tight space on the cabin floor for a long time is less than fun.

One major improvement is to make the oil flow quickly through the extraction tube inserted in the dip stick hole. Extraction devices are designed to fit the smallest hole likely to be encountered. My Pela 6000 unit came with a 1/4" outside diameter (OD) plastic tube at the open end, which connects to 3/8" OD plastic tube (of about equal length) to suck oil into the receiving unit. However my Yanmar 3GMF has a dip stick hole that will (just) accept 5/16" OD tube. So I looked for replacement metal tube of this diameter - the theory being that the metal tube will be thinner walled, thus maximising the inside hole diameter and allowing oil to flow faster. It is also a little easier to handle.

Copper tube at my hardware store only comes in 1/4' and 3/8" OD sizes. However the local auto parts store stocks 5/16" OD steel brake tube complete with couplers. After investing slightly over $1.00 for a 12' long unit and cutting off the end fittings, I cut away all of the Pela's 1/4" OD plastic tube and used boiling water to soften the remaining 3/8" OD tube before forcing in the end of the rigid brake tube.

The end tube has now increased in size from 1/8" internal diameter (ID) to 1/4" ID. This may not sound like much - but this is actually a 400% increase in oil carrying capacity! I also shortened the Pela's effective tube length by about half, which reduces friction and helps increase the oil flow rate.

The last item to help make oil changing easier is to warm the engine oil by running the engine for a few minutes to reduce viscosity. The oil needs to be moderately hot but not scalding. Rather than guessing how long to run the engine, carefully check the temperature by placing a hand on the oil filter. Watch for dangerous moving engine parts.

Happy oil changes!

 

[Steve Dion]

http://www.amazon.com/Tempo-Oil-Boy-Fluid-Extractor/dp/B0000BYP0L

Neil:

We have been using a Tempo Oil changer for the last few years. It works really well. The tubing fits in the GM & JH Yanmars. The difference between this unit and many others on the market is the tubing is semi rigid plastic instead of vinyl. We have had much greater success. This unit is also marketed under the name of Moeller (I think they are the same unit)

 

[T37 Phil]

I just bought a Moeller this year. The suction hose didn't go down the dip stick tube far enough into the sump to get all the oil. Weeks later (too late) it occured to me to stick the suction hose into the drain hose that comes directly out of the lowest point of the pan (as installed). The suction tube isn't long enough to make it all the way through and back into the sump, but I'm hoping it won't have to if the oil drains into the hose fast enough. If I keep the end of the drain hose held high enough, the drain hose will just act like an extension of the sump. Hopefully things will go better next year!

 

[Maine Sail]

I just bought a Moeller this year. The suction hose didn't go down the dip stick tube far enough into the sump to get all the oil. Weeks later (too late) it occured to me to stick the suction hose into the drain hose that comes directly out of the lowest point of the pan (as installed). The suction tube isn't long enough to make it all the way through and back into the sump, but I'm hoping it won't have to if the oil drains into the hose fast enough. If I keep the end of the drain hose held high enough, the drain hose will just act like an extension of the sump. Hopefully things will go better next year!

Phil,

I have the Tempo/Moeller unit as well (Tempo is no longer in business). What I did was buy some brass fittings at Home Depot to connect to the plastic pump hose and to thread onto the drain tube from the sump/oil pan. By doing this the pump does not suck air. Once you have pumped it all out simply fold a piece of bilge pad and set the hose onto the pad under the engine and let the rest of the oil drain out by gravity. The Tempo gets about 95% of it but letting it drain by gravity into a bilge pad gets the rest..

 

[Warren Milberg]

It would seem that everyone has their favorite oil change device -- and method. In my case, I have used a high quality brass PAR handpump for many years and have used it to change oil in any number of engines and transmissions. What I like about the PAR pump is its high quality and the fact that I have found numerous other uses for this pump all around the boat. In addition to oil changes, I use it to suck water out of tight spaces between the hull and hull liner, transfer diesel fuel, and to drain the hot water heater for winter layup. It is a true multi-use device.

When I use this pump to change oil, I put the output end into a gallon jug. That way I can see how much oil came out and know if I got out as much as is possible. It also makes the job a lot neater. I happen to like the flexible vinyl uptake hose as it (1) allows me to move it around the dipstick hole and engine pan, and (2) lets me get into a very hard-to-reach transmission (Yan 2GM20F) to change the oil there, too. Whatever works, works....

 

[AXEL]

I recently bought the Bigboy Top Sider. It's similar to the Moeller but made of metal. It works great! I have used the Jasco hand pumps and still use the Jasco drill pump (mounts on a electric hand drill) which also works very well. But I have to say that of all I have tried the Bigboy is easy, built to last, neat and clean. Well worth the $60.

 

[T37 Phil]

MaineSail, that sounds like the way to go.

Warren, I agree that the no-mess is a huge plus. Now if I can figure out the oil filter! My Westerbeke has the oil filter on the side and crammed right up against the firewall, 1/2 over the lip of the engine pan. Oh, and of course, it's upside down. I'm sure there must be a good reason for it, but I haven't heard it yet. Other than lot's of barrier material, anyone have a good solution for that one?

 

[Maine Sail]

My Westerbeke has the oil filter on the side and crammed right up against the firewall, 1/2 over the lip of the engine pan. Oh, and of course, it's upside down. I'm sure there must be a good reason for it, but I haven't heard it yet. Other than lot's of barrier material, anyone have a good solution for that one?

Easiest way I've found is bilge pads..

 

[fredr]

Mainsail, my Yanmar 3gm has the oil filter in the same place. I use ziplock bags over the filter once I break it loose. I do the same with fuel filters. Its not perfect, I usually put the 1st ziplock into a second as soon as possible.

fred

 

[Monty Miller]

The oil will suck out faster if you remove the oil filler cap first. Before unscrewing the oil filter punch a vertical hole through the top and bottom of the filter with a screwdriver and let the oil drain in to a small container. That way no oil will run down the side of the engine when you unscrew the filter.

 

[Clark]

Phil, have you considered a remote filter adapter? If you have space near the original filter location, it could make replacing the filter a mess-less snap.

 

[Dan Johnson]

Two more catch-alls...

similar to Maine Sail's solution: one is to use disposable diapers spread out underneath as shown. They're designed to hold the yuckie stuff and work well in this application as well.

The other is the bed pads used in hospitals and in home health care. Designed to hold incontinence, they are easily spread out under the engine and catch all the drippings and hold them without a mess.

Also, after I change the oil filter on my 3GM, I pop the empty used filter into an emptied Folgers plastic coffee "can" and stuff a paper towel on top. The snap lid holds it and any mess until I can drop it off at the recycling center.

 

[T37 Phil]

I don't have any room at all and the filter is literally upside down. Well, maybe 30 degrees off vertical. I don't see how an adapter to change the orientation would fit in that space. I like the idea of pre draining the filter, but again, given the orientation that might be tricky. The hole would need to be in the threaded end, and I'd need to make it and get something in there to catch the oil quickly. And it's still a ridiculously tiny space. The large baggie idea has potential, maybe in combination with carpeting the place in pads.

I still don't get why it was designed that way. Even in a tractor, it's going to be messy removing the filter full of oil while the open end faces down.

As I think about, there may be space above the engine. What's the story with the filter adapters. Is it really possible to mount the filter somewhere else and still get proper flow?