Dyneema lifelines — anti-chafe solution?

[SV_IdleHour]

Hi all and happy new year.
I’ve got a Hunter 27 and am looking to replace the original lifelines with Dyneema, I see the current vinyl wrapped cable ones contact the lower shrouds.
Any ideas to keep the chafing to a minimum?
Also, for any H27 owner, do your lifelines touch the lower shrouds?
Thanks!

 

[dlochner]

Hi all and happy new year.
I’ve got a Hunter 27 and am looking to replace the original lifelines with Dyneema, I see the current vinyl wrapped cable ones contact the lower shrouds.
Any ideas to keep the chafing to a minimum?
Also, for any H27 owner, do your lifelines touch the lower shrouds?
Thanks!

I don't have an answer to your specific question, however, a more important place to look for chafe is the holes in the stanchions. Some stanchions have holes that are simply drilled leaving a sharp edge that will chafe the lifeline.

Dyneema seems like a good solution because of its strength and relatively low cost. However, there is a down side to dyneema, chafe and UV exposure. If you are a highly competitive racer and looking to save a few pounds, Dyneema is a good deal. However, for most of us bare SS wire is a less expensive option in the long run.

 

[SV_IdleHour]

I don't have an answer to your specific question, however, a more important place to look for chafe is the holes in the stanchions. Some stanchions have holes that are simply drilled leaving a sharp edge that will chafe the lifeline.

Dyneema seems like a good solution because of its strength and relatively low cost. However, there is a down side to dyneema, chafe and UV exposure. If you are a highly competitive racer and looking to save a few pounds, Dyneema is a good deal. However, for most of us bare SS wire is a less expensive option in the long run.

Appreciate it!
I learned to splice it recently, and have a bunch. I found plastic ferrules to run through the holes in the stanchions, think I’m covered there. Looking to see if a cover works and what material if it does for the 2-3 inches by the shroud.

 

[dLj]

Can you put PVC tubing over your shrouds up to and a bit above where the dyneema touchs the shrouds?

dj

 

[SV_IdleHour]

I don’t see why not!
Thanks!

 

[dlochner]

I found plastic ferrules to run through the holes in the stanchions, think I’m covered there.

Keep a good eye on the those ferrules and buy extras. They tend to slide out and deteriorate in the sun.

One option for the stanchions is to have SS ferrules welded into the holes. White Water Marine, Inc. will do this for very little money per stanchion. They make a lot of SS for boat manufacturers. Easy to deal with and quick service.

 

[SV_IdleHour]

That’s a great tip. Thank you!

 

[heritage]

My lower lifelines do not touch the shrouds. As I recall, weaved the lifeline outside the first lower, then inside the upper, and then outside the second lower. I replaced the original lifelines with dyneema a couple of years ago and used dyneema chafe sleeve tubing segments where they went through the stanchions. I secured the tubing with shrink tubing to keep it from moving. But the uv did a number on the shrink tubing, so later sewed and whipped to secure.

 

[SV_IdleHour]

This is awesome—thank you much!

I found a photo that shows the current setup, but it said it’s too large. Anyone have a max size for forum photos?

 

[JK_Boston_Catalina310]

We ended up using the New England Ropes W2R. It is dynema with a double braided outer jacket glued on. It gives chafe and UV protection. It will also hold a knot. But splicing is harder.

 

[jssailem]

Welcome to the forum @SV_IdleHour . Congratulations on your seamanship line splicing skills. As any seaman knows line is great but it needs attention. With a lifeline that serves a safety function, replacement and service is part of the mission.

Good suggestions here. Chafe and UV deterioration is going to happen with exposed dyneema line. You’ll just have to expect replacement sooner than if it is stainless wire. If like most boats with plastic coated wire the lifelines should have been replaced several years ago, when the first cracks in the plastic coating started to appear.

While the Line costs will be some what less, be sure to get the termination fittings that cost more. They have smooth radius ends to take the lock spliced end loops of dyneema. While dyneema is tough it does not favor tight sharp bends.

For lifelines in salt water environment I favored bare stainless wire for overall cost and serviceability. I used dyneema for the gates. Great feel and the gate hangs easily with just 2 of the special fittings.

With your splicing skills you can now make your own super strong soft shackles.

One last thought. Have you checked the alignment of the stanchions? Could a well meaning dock worker trying to fend your boat off as it approached the slip, used the stanchion to stop the boat from crashing? They may need to be straightened to get them back aligned and off the side shrouds.

 

[rgranger]

Can you put PVC tubing over your shrouds up to and a bit above where the dyneema touchs the shrouds?

dj

This is what I have on my H26. 1" PVC pipe over the shrouds.

 

[jssailem]

PVC pipe. With a drain opening on the bottom, like a notch or drilled holes. Water accumulation in the bottom of the pipe can work on the shroud swage or shroud wire. I had these on my trailer boat. It helped to keep the jib sheets running free. On this boat the mast came down and the PVC pipe did not have standing water captured.

 

[SV_IdleHour]

Welcome to the forum @SV_IdleHour . Congratulations on your seamanship line splicing skills. As any seaman knows line is great but it needs attention. With a lifeline that serves a safety function, replacement and service is part of the mission.

Good suggestions here. Chafe and UV deterioration is going to happen with exposed dyneema line. You’ll just have to expect replacement sooner than if it is stainless wire. If like most boats with plastic coated wire the lifelines should have been replaced several years ago, when the first cracks in the plastic coating started to appear.

While the Line costs will be some what less, be sure to get the termination fittings that cost more. They have smooth radius ends to take the lock spliced end loops of dyneema. While dyneema is tough it does not favor tight sharp bends.

For lifelines in salt water environment I favored bare stainless wire for overall cost and serviceability. I used dyneema for the gates. Great feel and the gate hangs easily with just 2 of the special fittings.

With your splicing skills you can now make your own super strong soft shackles.

One last thought. Have you checked the alignment of the stanchions? Could a well meaning dock worker trying to fend your boat off as it approached the slip, used the stanchion to stop the boat from crashing? They may need to be straightened to get them back aligned and off the side shrouds.

Thanks and glad I joined—super helpful. Hope I can return the favor soon.
I made a number of soft shackles for my boat and the one I crewed this summer, got me hooked!
5 of 6 stanchions are straight and plumb, the last, just aft of the shrouds, needs some attention, but both sides drag.
I saw the hardware for the ends, I’ll be picking them up soon.
Thanks again!

 

[SV_IdleHour]

We ended up using the New England Ropes W2R. It is dynema with a double braided outer jacket glued on. It gives chafe and UV protection. It will also hold a knot. But splicing is harder.

Thanks—what width did you go for?

 

[jssailem]

I'd go to a chandlery and try out several different diameters. It ia all about hand feel, as weight is not a factor..

When I did the gates I used a "long bury". It doubled the diameter of the line. I then lock stitched the bury.

 

[JK_Boston_Catalina310]

Thanks—what width did you go for?

We went with the 5mm. Feels like a coated lifeline in your hand.