Dyneema for Boom Topping Lift, Thoughts?

[Sail22Capri22]

I would like to add a topping lift to my Capri 22 so the boom won’t come crashing down when I dump the main. (I don’t think I want a boom kicker) Catalina Direct sells a kit that comes with a vinyl coated steel cable. But I was wonder what people thought if I made the topping lift myself using Dyneema. I would use the Dyneema to replace the steel wire section then use a Sta Set rope at the bottom for adjustments. I can just go the vinyl coated cable route but wanted to know what people thought.

 

[Tally Ho]

I don’t see why you couldn’t use dyneema, as long as you don’t have any chafe points.

On my boat (a bit bigger than yours) my topping lift is regular double braid halyardrope.


Greg

 

[Davidasailor26]

Seems like dyneema should work fine. Then again it’s not taking much load- basically just the weight of the boom plus any mainsheet tension you use to hold the boom steady when the sail is down. I would think pretty much any line would do.

 

[garymalmgren]

Why are you thinking of Dyneema over normal, cheap, easy-to-handle 8mm double braid?

A topping lift is s really good idea. It controls the boom height when lowering, hoisting and reefing.
So, yeah add one.

The simplest way is a block at the masthead, the topping lift line connected to the aft boom end (any old way),
Lead up to the block and back to the boom end.
There it can be tied off, or cleated with a normal cheap horn cleat or with a jam cleat or cam cleat.
You can do all your topping lift work in the cockpit without extra deck hardware.

Also the topping lift can double as a spare main halyard if set up that way.
Some thing else to think about.


gary

 

[rgranger]

I had a rope topping on my H26

 

[shemandr]

I can't recall having anything but rope topping lifts. This isn't a place to spend extra money on high tech line. Save your Dyneema for a halyard.

 

[Joe]

All you need is regular 1/4" dacron rope. You don't need coated wire, or dyneema, just the rope and an adjustment mechanism... either on the boom end or set up like a halyard. The topping lift simply holds the boom in place. The load is very small. If you every get a full roach mainsail with full length battens, the topping lift will become an annoying device that snags the battens everytime the mainsail changes sides. A rigid vang eliminates the need for a topping lift. Garhauer makes a rigid vang for your boat for less than $350. Many of our sailboat owner pals are users and all will highly recommend them.

 

[Sail22Capri22]

I thought about just using rope as well but figured there was a reason for the wire since cat direct makes the kit with wire. It is a small boat and light boom maybe I will try 1/4 rope this summer and see how it goes. I appreciate the responses!

 

[JBP-PA]

I would do dyneema, uncoated SS wire, VPC, or Sta-Set X for it's low stretch for the longest part and possibly double braid if needed for the adjustment as you initially proposed. I think it is annoying to have too much springiness in it. You should also make it strong enough to hold your weight, as the boom often ends up being used as a hand hold.

 

[stickinthemud57]

Dyneema is overkill for a topping lift, IMO.

My topping lift is permanently attached at the top of the mast and attached to the the aft end of the boom using a clip. If I need to raise the boom (i.e. for reefing), I just wrap it around the aft end of the boom a time or two. I know this won't work for all boats, but this for me is far simpler than routing it through pulleys, clutches, etc.

 

[AaronD]

I used tiny Dyneema "Lash-It" cord (1.75mm) on our C-22 - design similar to the CD kit and to Stingy's.

1.75mm Dyneema is low windage, and cheap (I think I paid < 20 cents / foot). See also: some notes on splicing the small stuff. I think you can find similar tiny Dyneema as fishing line - possibly cheaper than marine sources; I might try some when I run out of my spool of Lash-It, but don't have any experience to share as of yet.

 

[Terry Cox]

Perfectly happy with our 1991 double braid rope topping lift. Plenty strong, no/low stretch, cost effective and no cable to rope connections to fiddle with.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

But I was wonder what people thought if I made the topping lift myself using Dyneema.

Where do these ideas come from ?

This is the lightest duty application in all of your running rigging. Why employ the strongest (and most expensive) line on the market ?

Does anyone have any idea as to why a short length of SS wire is used in topping lift kits other than windage which is most likely too small to measure ?

 

[ShawnL]

I have the CD topping lift on my '72 Catalina 22. The PO installed it -- vinyl cable attached to the mast head and then down to near the boom, then it transitions to some sort of cheap line. No blocks, etc. I had space on my out haul bock at the end of the mast, so I attach it there with a quick knot. Easy to adjust and cheap. If it ever needed to be replaced I'd just use some cheap low-stretch 1/4 line.

 

[Dalliance]

I got rid of my topping lift and replaced it with a Garhauer rigid vang because the leech of the main always chafed on the topping lift and often snagged at the batten end covers when I tacked. I know you said you don’t think you want a boom kicker, but I would suggest you do a little test first with a temporary topping lift.
If you have a spare halyard, or can rig one, pull it back to the end of the boom and connect it where your topping lift would be attached. Then sail for a while, try a few tacks and see what happens. If it chafes and hangs up on your main frequently, you might want to consider a boom kicker or rigid vang.
If you go with a topping lift, dyneema line is probably overkill.

 

[JBP-PA]

Where do these ideas come from ?

This is the lightest duty application in all of your running rigging. Why employ the strongest (and most expensive) line on the market ?

Does anyone have any idea as to why a short length of SS wire is used in topping lift kits other than windage which is most likely too small to measure ?

Dyneema is not the most expensive anymore. A quick search on Amazon, you can get 7/64" Amsteel Blue for .27/ft, whereas regular 1/4" sta-set is about .75/ft

 

[DArcy]

I had a nice setup on my C&C27. There was a wire running from the mast head to about 2 feet above the boom (this could, of course, be rope) with a small block on the end of the boom. There was a small rope, maybe 1/4" running from the boom, through the block on the wire, back to a jam cleat on the boom end. It was very easy to adjust the height of the boom. The jam cleat was closed so I tied a figure 8 in the end of the line and when I just let it go without jamming the rope it would drop to the lowest height, easy to get the cover on then I would lift it back above head wacking height when I was done.

 

[heritage]

My H27 has a wire topping lift that terminates about 18" above the aft end of the boom where it attaches to a small block and tackle in order to make adjustments to the height of the boom. The wire is beginning to show some rust streaks and I plan on replacing it with dyneema of about the same size. The topping lift keeps the boom from rubbing on the top of the bimini, so low stretch is important.

 

[Sail22Capri22]

Thanks for the replies, I bough some 1/4" Sta-Set and decided to make it all rope. I put eye slices in the ends with one end having a Harken Block in it. Will put a cam cleat and a cheek block on the boom for the lower part adjustment. I think the rope will be just fine as the boom is light and I only really need it there to hold up the boom while I drop the mainsail so I do not drop the boom on one of my kids or wife's head.

 

[jssailem]

so I do not drop the boom on one of my kids or wife's head.

Good move. You would be in big trouble if that happened.