what types of epoxy or glue works best on this stuff whats the big secret no one wants to sell me the right stuff
dupont corian
- Thread starter sand sailor
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secret adhesive
Found this article through google http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infcountertop/infsolidsurface.shtm
Found this article through google http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infcountertop/infsolidsurface.shtm
Corian
I work part time in a cabinet shop that does some Corian fabrication. The adhesive is tightly controlled as is the material. There is a special gun for the epoxy mix cartridges as well as disposable tips on the cartridges. You might check around your area for a shop that is willing to help you out with your project. Working with Corian or other solid surface products requires many of the same precautions as working with fiberglass and epoxies. HTH Ellis
I work part time in a cabinet shop that does some Corian fabrication. The adhesive is tightly controlled as is the material. There is a special gun for the epoxy mix cartridges as well as disposable tips on the cartridges. You might check around your area for a shop that is willing to help you out with your project. Working with Corian or other solid surface products requires many of the same precautions as working with fiberglass and epoxies. HTH Ellis
Not to sound like an idiot but
the last time I put down a small piece (28" x 24") of 1 1/2" Lyptus butcher block I was told to use silicone caulk. It is not so much the adhesive quality as the cohesion quality of the caulk and weight of the countertop that keep the 2 pieces from separating. On a ship I would use some thickened epoxy though.
the last time I put down a small piece (28" x 24") of 1 1/2" Lyptus butcher block I was told to use silicone caulk. It is not so much the adhesive quality as the cohesion quality of the caulk and weight of the countertop that keep the 2 pieces from separating. On a ship I would use some thickened epoxy though.
The big secret is ..
That many compounds will secure a countertop. Corian would probably work ok with silicone caulk for less than 5$ a tube. The reason for using something like silicone instead of epoxy would be incase you want to re-do or re-use any part of the job. Once something is epoxied it is largely attached to the surface that you have glued it to. Silicone is difficult to un-do but less difficult to un-do than an epoxy bond.
That many compounds will secure a countertop. Corian would probably work ok with silicone caulk for less than 5$ a tube. The reason for using something like silicone instead of epoxy would be incase you want to re-do or re-use any part of the job. Once something is epoxied it is largely attached to the surface that you have glued it to. Silicone is difficult to un-do but less difficult to un-do than an epoxy bond.
sand sailor, the corian is polyester resin..
Just like your boat. (my guess) Polyester resin does not form a secondary bond like epoxy does. A primary bond is when polyestere resin is either still curing or, is unwaxed and will bond to itself. A secondary bond is when trying to bond a cured product to a cured product. This is when epoxy is superior. Polyester does not do the same job. The secret to corian is the color in the epoxy to join corian to itself. Light colors take light colored epoxy, dark colors take dark color epoxy. Corian has a product with color for each of their colors. (actually each of their tubes may do two or three different colors of their solid surface product. The secret is that the joint in the multi colored product is so small you don't see the color change. Epoxy is a very controlled substance(not by the government), it must be mixed to specs. If not mixed to proper proportion, the epoxy is not strong. I think this is the corian secret. It is their mix, not the epoxy but the color. I think that you can mix West System product with colorant and achieve the same result. The important thing when joining polyester products with epoxy, is that the epoxy must be mixed as designed. Sanding the joint is done with progresively finer sandpaper. 320 is over doing it. Again, the epoxy mixing is not rocket science... West products have special pump dispensers so that the mix is always perfect. Epoxy to join it and silicone to set it. Hope that helped! r.w.landau
Just like your boat. (my guess) Polyester resin does not form a secondary bond like epoxy does. A primary bond is when polyestere resin is either still curing or, is unwaxed and will bond to itself. A secondary bond is when trying to bond a cured product to a cured product. This is when epoxy is superior. Polyester does not do the same job. The secret to corian is the color in the epoxy to join corian to itself. Light colors take light colored epoxy, dark colors take dark color epoxy. Corian has a product with color for each of their colors. (actually each of their tubes may do two or three different colors of their solid surface product. The secret is that the joint in the multi colored product is so small you don't see the color change. Epoxy is a very controlled substance(not by the government), it must be mixed to specs. If not mixed to proper proportion, the epoxy is not strong. I think this is the corian secret. It is their mix, not the epoxy but the color. I think that you can mix West System product with colorant and achieve the same result. The important thing when joining polyester products with epoxy, is that the epoxy must be mixed as designed. Sanding the joint is done with progresively finer sandpaper. 320 is over doing it. Again, the epoxy mixing is not rocket science... West products have special pump dispensers so that the mix is always perfect. Epoxy to join it and silicone to set it. Hope that helped! r.w.landau
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