I have a 1983 Catalina 25 that is in pretty good condition, except for the hull. What is the best product/steps to restoring it from its dull and slightly dirty appearance? Also, it is cracking in one spot in the stern, what can be done to solve that?
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Don Evans
Go To www.sailnet.com
Carlo, Don Casey (a fiberglass maintenance guru) just published 2 articles on these subjects. Last months was on restoring the finish to the hull, and this months is on repairing cracks, chips in gelcoat. Check the archives at this site also for previous postings on these subjects. Don
Carlo, Don Casey (a fiberglass maintenance guru) just published 2 articles on these subjects. Last months was on restoring the finish to the hull, and this months is on repairing cracks, chips in gelcoat. Check the archives at this site also for previous postings on these subjects. Don
T
Tom Hultberg
Use Polyglow
I put it on my 1986 Starwind 22 two years ago, before I bought my h26 and the cleaner really does a great job. But five applications of the dressing and the hull lookes like a new boat. Sid the same thing on a buddies 1987 boat. A great product! I bought mine off the web.
I put it on my 1986 Starwind 22 two years ago, before I bought my h26 and the cleaner really does a great job. But five applications of the dressing and the hull lookes like a new boat. Sid the same thing on a buddies 1987 boat. A great product! I bought mine off the web.
J
Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Why is it cracking?
Carlo - When you mention the cracking, what's it like? Is it a gouge in the gel coat or is it structural? Before you fix it, be sure to fix whatever is causing it. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Carlo - When you mention the cracking, what's it like? Is it a gouge in the gel coat or is it structural? Before you fix it, be sure to fix whatever is causing it. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
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Dan Ulrich
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Jim Willis, Pres Island GIrl Products
Here we go again!
With regard to the crack in the gelcoat-it is probably a stress crack. This has to be dremelled out down to the glass fiber layer, filled and color-match gelcoated. We are presently preparing a standard instruction on this (perhaps also with gelcoat repari kits) but there is also an excellent video obtainable from Bennett Marine Video, marina Del Rey CA 213 821 3329. This details the color matching. On the grimy gelcoat note- the most important thing is to remove oxidation adn grime from surface AND pores in the gelcoat. This means chemical removal not just compounding. THe alternative of we sanding should only be used if a suface layer of pigment has faded. It is also important to stop further oxidation. I recommend ISLAND GIRL products for this, not because I am biased (!) but because I know there is nothing easier or more effective. IF the boat is blue, white red etc. SEA GLOW is best. Remnoves oxidation, stops oxidation and restores color brightness in a literally hard to believe way. Then we come to the surface sealant part. Thee ways to go. Wax (we recommend Collinite Fleetwax) Longer lasting and more shiny if used with Silkenseal spray-on sealant. I see some plugs for Polyglow on this site. I have experimented with this and it is a good product for surface sealing. It is an water-based acrylic "clear coat" that requires about 6 coats. It the only one I have every tried and does work over SEA GLOW. The boat should be hauled when used (water based product is difficult to use in water and care in application necessary to avoid streaks). New Glass (available though this site is equivalent,in quality. THere is also Vertlglass TSRW, Port O'London, and I saw an acrylic product from Starbright at West Marine recently. WHile the acrylic surface is generally more durable - like any clear coat surfae preparation is important. Professionally sprayed clear coats are always done after extensive degreasing and wet-sanding. THese "do it yourself" products should also be applied only after all traces of wax etc are removed- otherwise peeling, cracking, flaking etc. There is also a rumor about yellowing (typical even onautobody clear coats) so be careful on white surfaces. Possibly initial SEA GLOW treatment may prevent this. The third way is a combined sealant coating/wax proprietary to Island GIrl called SIMPLY BRILLIANTT. You only need one, possibly 2 coatst and no special applicator. WHen hard can be "buffed up" if necessary and Silkenseal can be used for periodic shine. Since it is not water based it will bond to the IG conditioned surface and can be touched up. Can be applied in the water and the boat used right away. It is more durable then regular wax (it has special resins) will not last as long as an acrylic but (unilke an acrylic" you are not "stuck with it" (requiring wet sanding to completely remove and no peeling etc can occur. Hope this if some help Jim Willis
With regard to the crack in the gelcoat-it is probably a stress crack. This has to be dremelled out down to the glass fiber layer, filled and color-match gelcoated. We are presently preparing a standard instruction on this (perhaps also with gelcoat repari kits) but there is also an excellent video obtainable from Bennett Marine Video, marina Del Rey CA 213 821 3329. This details the color matching. On the grimy gelcoat note- the most important thing is to remove oxidation adn grime from surface AND pores in the gelcoat. This means chemical removal not just compounding. THe alternative of we sanding should only be used if a suface layer of pigment has faded. It is also important to stop further oxidation. I recommend ISLAND GIRL products for this, not because I am biased (!) but because I know there is nothing easier or more effective. IF the boat is blue, white red etc. SEA GLOW is best. Remnoves oxidation, stops oxidation and restores color brightness in a literally hard to believe way. Then we come to the surface sealant part. Thee ways to go. Wax (we recommend Collinite Fleetwax) Longer lasting and more shiny if used with Silkenseal spray-on sealant. I see some plugs for Polyglow on this site. I have experimented with this and it is a good product for surface sealing. It is an water-based acrylic "clear coat" that requires about 6 coats. It the only one I have every tried and does work over SEA GLOW. The boat should be hauled when used (water based product is difficult to use in water and care in application necessary to avoid streaks). New Glass (available though this site is equivalent,in quality. THere is also Vertlglass TSRW, Port O'London, and I saw an acrylic product from Starbright at West Marine recently. WHile the acrylic surface is generally more durable - like any clear coat surfae preparation is important. Professionally sprayed clear coats are always done after extensive degreasing and wet-sanding. THese "do it yourself" products should also be applied only after all traces of wax etc are removed- otherwise peeling, cracking, flaking etc. There is also a rumor about yellowing (typical even onautobody clear coats) so be careful on white surfaces. Possibly initial SEA GLOW treatment may prevent this. The third way is a combined sealant coating/wax proprietary to Island GIrl called SIMPLY BRILLIANTT. You only need one, possibly 2 coatst and no special applicator. WHen hard can be "buffed up" if necessary and Silkenseal can be used for periodic shine. Since it is not water based it will bond to the IG conditioned surface and can be touched up. Can be applied in the water and the boat used right away. It is more durable then regular wax (it has special resins) will not last as long as an acrylic but (unilke an acrylic" you are not "stuck with it" (requiring wet sanding to completely remove and no peeling etc can occur. Hope this if some help Jim Willis
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