A good project for all boat owners is to epoxy seal every single hole drilled in the deck since none of the boat builders go to this trouble and cause a lot of rot problems. Remove each deck fitting screw and bore the hole oversize and then epoxy fill in the hole and redrill it. Many ways to do this but it is a good thing to do if you want to keep your boat for a long time and avoid problems. Another drying technique is to use a vacuum pump. Vaporization of water is based on the vapor pressure of the ambient atmosphere. It is a classic thermodynamics problem involving pressure, temperature, and saturation levels of the ambient air. Evaporation will increase dramatically with reduced pressure so duct tape some plastic to the deck, duct tape over the inside of the deck to seal it, then run a hose to a vacuum pump (like a wet vac) and duct tape it to the plastic enclosed area. Turn it on and let it run until you are happy. Increased temperature will also help as will the dehumidification previously posted.
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LaDonna Bubak - Catalina Owners
Rebedding is a must
I definitely concur that everyone should rebed the original fittings. It can be a long job but worth it in the end. LaDonna
I definitely concur that everyone should rebed the original fittings. It can be a long job but worth it in the end. LaDonna
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Anthony Bavuso
What epoxy do you recommend?
What type of epoxy do you recommend to fill the deck holes? Also my boat previous owner drilled a 1" diameter hole in the wood cored deck as a through deck for the electrical wiring. I was thinking about your post this morning and it seem to me that it would be a good idea to fill this hole with epoxy and then redrill it. So that even if water does leak through the deck fitting it will still never get to the core. What type of epoxy would you recommend for this job?
What type of epoxy do you recommend to fill the deck holes? Also my boat previous owner drilled a 1" diameter hole in the wood cored deck as a through deck for the electrical wiring. I was thinking about your post this morning and it seem to me that it would be a good idea to fill this hole with epoxy and then redrill it. So that even if water does leak through the deck fitting it will still never get to the core. What type of epoxy would you recommend for this job?
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David Lewis
What Epoxy to Use
I am very partial to WEST System epoxy resins. These can be mixed with a variety of additives to give you an assortment of strength and viscosity options depending on the job. This epoxy is very expensive...about $85 - 90.00 per gallon for the resin and hardener but it is worth the money!!! You can but quarts also. The key is that the core in a deck should never be exposed to moisture. Any leak in any screw hole will cause the core to become saturated and wet rot and require a major costly repair. This is inevitible for all new boats since they don't seal the screw holes. There are three techniques to filling in the holes. 1. Only machine out the core oversize, then fill the core area with epoxy resin, then stick a screw or a piece of stock the diameter of the screw in the hole coated with release agent or a thin film of plastic like saran wrap. When cured remove the screw. 2. Drill the hole oversized all the way thru then put the screw in the hole with release agent and fill it with epoxy. 3. Drill the hole oversized, fill it completely with epoxy, then drill it out afterward. The key is the new hole needs to line up with your fittings after completing the job. This will allow any leaks to leak into the interior where you can see them but not allow the core to become saturated. Of course all the screws and fittings should be bedded when reinstaled with good bedding compound.
I am very partial to WEST System epoxy resins. These can be mixed with a variety of additives to give you an assortment of strength and viscosity options depending on the job. This epoxy is very expensive...about $85 - 90.00 per gallon for the resin and hardener but it is worth the money!!! You can but quarts also. The key is that the core in a deck should never be exposed to moisture. Any leak in any screw hole will cause the core to become saturated and wet rot and require a major costly repair. This is inevitible for all new boats since they don't seal the screw holes. There are three techniques to filling in the holes. 1. Only machine out the core oversize, then fill the core area with epoxy resin, then stick a screw or a piece of stock the diameter of the screw in the hole coated with release agent or a thin film of plastic like saran wrap. When cured remove the screw. 2. Drill the hole oversized all the way thru then put the screw in the hole with release agent and fill it with epoxy. 3. Drill the hole oversized, fill it completely with epoxy, then drill it out afterward. The key is the new hole needs to line up with your fittings after completing the job. This will allow any leaks to leak into the interior where you can see them but not allow the core to become saturated. Of course all the screws and fittings should be bedded when reinstaled with good bedding compound.
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Anthony Bavuso
West Marine suggested #404 or #406
I called my local West Marine outlet and for my application, i.e. filling in the 1" diameter hole, the guy there suggested using #404 or #406 additive into the #105 resin and #205 hardener. Do you'all agree with this suggestion?
I called my local West Marine outlet and for my application, i.e. filling in the 1" diameter hole, the guy there suggested using #404 or #406 additive into the #105 resin and #205 hardener. Do you'all agree with this suggestion?
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David Lewis
Additives
Tony, Go to the WESTSYSTEM.com web page and you can get a ton of information about their products and also order books that tell you how to do all kinds of repairs. 406 is colloidal silica, make sure you wear a mask, it's very fine and goes airborn when you use it, you don't want to breathe this dust, I have used it extensively and it should be good for this, it is tough to wet out but makes a very workable mixture.
Tony, Go to the WESTSYSTEM.com web page and you can get a ton of information about their products and also order books that tell you how to do all kinds of repairs. 406 is colloidal silica, make sure you wear a mask, it's very fine and goes airborn when you use it, you don't want to breathe this dust, I have used it extensively and it should be good for this, it is tough to wet out but makes a very workable mixture.
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Justin - O'day Owners Web
403, then 407
I'd use 403 to fill the hole just short of flush, then 407 to top it off and fair with. If I were going to just use one, I'd use the 403. West System additives go from strongest/least sandable to weakest/easiest to sand. Even the tough stuff can be sanded, though its harder. I would use the strong stuff, given the choice, just to be obsessive. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
I'd use 403 to fill the hole just short of flush, then 407 to top it off and fair with. If I were going to just use one, I'd use the 403. West System additives go from strongest/least sandable to weakest/easiest to sand. Even the tough stuff can be sanded, though its harder. I would use the strong stuff, given the choice, just to be obsessive. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
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