Dropping the Keel

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Carter Leary

In reading some of the past post on "Keel Dropping" to replace the caulking , which I have to do , it has been stated to loosen the keel bolts, raise the boat and let the keel lower itself from the boat,then replace the caulking and reverse the process.With all that said ,my question or problem is ,that in removing the old caulking, I see and feel what seems to be resin or some other hard material behind it. Is this just fill or part of the keel structure that will break off if I lower the keel? Thanks for any input. Carter S/V Irish Fox
 
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Richard Bennett

Keel dropping

I replaced the keel bolts and replaced the sealant at the same time. Boat : First 305 Proceedure: raise boat on stand. put jacks at front and back of keel put props either side of keel. remove bolts lower keel on the jacks. (there is a bilge pot recessed into the keel so keel has to be lowered 200 mm. all the old sealant can then be removed. clean hull back to bare gel coat. clean keel back to bare metal and prime with zinc rich primer paint. apply polurethane adhesive to keel. jack up keel put bolts into keel. continue to jack up and tidghten bolts together. the polyurethane sealant sqeezes out every where! Leave for a couple of days with the keel hanging on the bolts till sealant cured.
 
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S. Sauer

Keel Joint Sealant

If all you need to do is replace the sealant; and I am assuming you have no leaks at your keel bolts into your bilge; why would you go to all the trouble of dropping the keel and risk creating such a problem at the keel bolts? If you take a box cutter and cut out all the sealant you can reach; then using a narrow wire wheel on a drill, and/or a Dremmel tool, you should be able to completely clean out the hull to keel joint and re-install a new seal of 5200 or whatever else you may prefer.
 
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Augie Byllott

Keel joint

I heartily agree with you. My '78 Catalina 30 has had the "Catalina Smile" for all of the 14 years I have owned her. It's difficult to mold the hull and the keel to match exactly at every point. When the boat and keel are mated, a layer of the manufacturer's favorite plastic filler is smeared on and the bolts are drawn tight. Over time, some of the filler will be washed out. As long as there is no keel movement or leakage into the boat, dig out any loose stuff, fill it, paint it, and go sailing. Catalina publishes a paper on this. You can e-mail a request for a copy.
 
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Johnny

Did it on an SJ-24,,,once

I also highly suggest that you find the Specs on te Proper Torque Settings when Resetting the Keel. 50lbs to much and you risk cracking the Structure, Pulling a Bolt or Breaking the Bolt loose. Course the 50lbs is just a guess as I have no idea what the specs are for your vessel, so is just a reference not a fact. Main point is get the Required Specs for those Bolt Torques so all goes well.
 
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