Could try heating up the collar so it expands around the bolt holes. Don't go near the fiberglass.
Fiberglass rudder stock so it might be difficult to use heat without compromising that....
Looks like enough room (gap) to zipcut the bolts, then work on the quadrant/lever halves to get whats left of the bolts out in a vise and a much better working space.... and away from the rudder stock.
Is the through-pin loose/removable?
Looks like enough room (gap) to zipcut the bolts, then work on the quadrant/lever halves to get whats left of the bolts out in a vise and a much better working space.... and away from the rudder stock.
Is the through-pin loose/removable?
As per @Justin_NSA, heat the surrounding aluminum. Aluminum has a higher coefficient of expansion than SS so mild heating of the aluminum casting around the problem bolt with a handheld propane torch may be all that you need. Keep the flame on the aluminum around the problem bolt. Keep feeling the aluminum surrounding the FG post to avoid any heat damage. Hot to the touch should be all you need and then work quickly on the problem bolt. If you repeat this process (and you likely will, many times), cool everything down to ambient before you start again.
If that doesn't work after many, many tries then, as a LAST RESORT, heat it VERY QUICKLY to ensure the aluminum gets hot but the bolt stays cooler than the aluminum. No temperature extremes here, just work as quickly as possible. Ideally use an oxy-acetylene torch with a small tip and heat the aluminum near the bolts (10 seconds max.) Use lots of precautions. Protect the FG post with insulation i.e. wet rags surrounded by aluminum foil. Work fast and soak the collar with water if things get too hot.
When they do come out, grease them before they go back in and avoid ever going through this again. Just like the $%^#@& manufacturer does for your convenience. BASTARDS !
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If you resort to heat try using beeswax to loosen the bolt. see my previous posts for more info
Good luck! Dano
Good luck! Dano
I believe you have a lower collar under the quadrant that actually supports the rudder . If you have removed that pin ,which it sounds like you have the weight of the rudder is now on the quadrant . You remove the quadrant first and then pull the lower pin last to drop the rudder. With the nuts off the 4 bolts and the weight of the rudder back on the lower collar , using a piece of aluminum drive the upper pin out . If you used a steel hammer you have most likely mushroomed the pin and it will never go thru the quadrant without a file or dremel. With the pin out the quadrant will split in 2 without the bolts being removed using a coupling of screw drivers in the split
Agree wth Mechone, wrong sequence. You have to remove weight of the ruder from lower bearing, quadrant, bolts and pins before removing them.
I made sling with ropes attached to cockpit winches allowing to lift or lower the rudder as required. After lifting ruder (without undoing control cables) back slightly nuts on the quadrant, drive quadrant pin out and remove back of the quadrant (2nd pic). After this drive the lower pin out and lower the ruder. As you can see, bolts in the quadrant are not “press fit”.
I made sling with ropes attached to cockpit winches allowing to lift or lower the rudder as required. After lifting ruder (without undoing control cables) back slightly nuts on the quadrant, drive quadrant pin out and remove back of the quadrant (2nd pic). After this drive the lower pin out and lower the ruder. As you can see, bolts in the quadrant are not “press fit”.
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Update! I have widened the gap in the collar. Bolts and top pin still won't budge. I believe if you disconnect the rack and pinion it may come apart. If not I'm considering using a zip saw to cut the bolts. Does anyone know how to disconnect the rack?
I finally tool grinder to my quadrant to get it all apart. Stainless steel, aluminum, and salt water have done it in. Ordered new quadrant from Lewmar and only took 13 weeks to get out of UK. Now must get it machined to fit.