I am a new sailor as of last year and we are thinking of selling our nice but tender o'day 25 for a hunter 28.5. Will the three extra 3' make a big differance in healing? My wife hates it and in winds over 15 knots we are both nervous. Also the 28.5 has the yanmar 18 hp. Any comments on that motor. And lastly, the ad {i've yet to see the boat} say's the 28.5 has a dripless stuffing box. What's that? Thanks in advance for any advice to a novice. Jack
dripless stuffing box
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I am a new sailor as of last year and we are thinking of selling our nice but tender o'day 25 for a hunter 28.5. Will the three extra 3' make a big differance in healing? My wife hates it and in winds over 15 knots we are both nervous. Also the 28.5 has the yanmar 18 hp. Any comments on that motor. And lastly, the ad {i've yet to see the boat} say's the 28.5 has a dripless stuffing box. What's that? Thanks in advance for any advice to a novice. Jack
PSS
Hi Jack, Welcome to the Hunter family if you buy the boat. I'm on my second Hunter, as I just sold my H34 a few months ago and bought a H40.5. Boats with inboard engines have to provide a way to allow the prop shaft to go through the hull. The opening around the shaft is then sealed by using a stuffing box, keeping most of the water on the outside; a good thing for boats. The stuffing box contains a material such as flax or a tephlon clay, and this prevents water from entering the bilge. The stuffing box however does require a slight drip to keep it cool while the shaft turns, and as part of the maintenance, you have to adjust the packing nut to control the amount of water that drips into the boat The dripless seal is a specially designed shaft seal that eliminates this dripping. The advantage is that there is almost no maintenance, and your bilge stays dry meaning less odors. I installed one on my boat and I really like it a lot. I have the link to the PYI site, as they are the leading manufacturer of dripless seals. Hope that helps.
Hi Jack, Welcome to the Hunter family if you buy the boat. I'm on my second Hunter, as I just sold my H34 a few months ago and bought a H40.5. Boats with inboard engines have to provide a way to allow the prop shaft to go through the hull. The opening around the shaft is then sealed by using a stuffing box, keeping most of the water on the outside; a good thing for boats. The stuffing box contains a material such as flax or a tephlon clay, and this prevents water from entering the bilge. The stuffing box however does require a slight drip to keep it cool while the shaft turns, and as part of the maintenance, you have to adjust the packing nut to control the amount of water that drips into the boat The dripless seal is a specially designed shaft seal that eliminates this dripping. The advantage is that there is almost no maintenance, and your bilge stays dry meaning less odors. I installed one on my boat and I really like it a lot. I have the link to the PYI site, as they are the leading manufacturer of dripless seals. Hope that helps.
PSS
Hi Jack, Welcome to the Hunter family if you buy the boat. I'm on my second Hunter, as I just sold my H34 a few months ago and bought a H40.5. Boats with inboard engines have to provide a way to allow the prop shaft to go through the hull. The opening around the shaft is then sealed by using a stuffing box, keeping most of the water on the outside; a good thing for boats. The stuffing box contains a material such as flax or a tephlon clay, and this prevents water from entering the bilge. The stuffing box however does require a slight drip to keep it cool while the shaft turns, and as part of the maintenance, you have to adjust the packing nut to control the amount of water that drips into the boat The dripless seal is a specially designed shaft seal that eliminates this dripping. The advantage is that there is almost no maintenance, and your bilge stays dry meaning less odors. I installed one on my boat and I really like it a lot. I have the link to the PYI site, as they are the leading manufacturer of dripless seals. Hope that helps.
Hi Jack, Welcome to the Hunter family if you buy the boat. I'm on my second Hunter, as I just sold my H34 a few months ago and bought a H40.5. Boats with inboard engines have to provide a way to allow the prop shaft to go through the hull. The opening around the shaft is then sealed by using a stuffing box, keeping most of the water on the outside; a good thing for boats. The stuffing box contains a material such as flax or a tephlon clay, and this prevents water from entering the bilge. The stuffing box however does require a slight drip to keep it cool while the shaft turns, and as part of the maintenance, you have to adjust the packing nut to control the amount of water that drips into the boat The dripless seal is a specially designed shaft seal that eliminates this dripping. The advantage is that there is almost no maintenance, and your bilge stays dry meaning less odors. I installed one on my boat and I really like it a lot. I have the link to the PYI site, as they are the leading manufacturer of dripless seals. Hope that helps.
Tenderness in an older sailboat...
.. sounds like older 'blown-out' sails. I'll bet some tweaking by a loft or new sails would reduce that 'tenderness'. If the 28.5 hasn't had the sails replaced or recut I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't have a bit of a tenderness issue too. Anyway, that's something to look out for.
.. sounds like older 'blown-out' sails. I'll bet some tweaking by a loft or new sails would reduce that 'tenderness'. If the 28.5 hasn't had the sails replaced or recut I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't have a bit of a tenderness issue too. Anyway, that's something to look out for.
Tenderness in an older sailboat...
.. sounds like older 'blown-out' sails. I'll bet some tweaking by a loft or new sails would reduce that 'tenderness'. If the 28.5 hasn't had the sails replaced or recut I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't have a bit of a tenderness issue too. Anyway, that's something to look out for.
.. sounds like older 'blown-out' sails. I'll bet some tweaking by a loft or new sails would reduce that 'tenderness'. If the 28.5 hasn't had the sails replaced or recut I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't have a bit of a tenderness issue too. Anyway, that's something to look out for.
To answer your questions,
Heeling is part of sailing. My wife hates it too, but she is getting used to it. Try to relax and enjoy. If your heeling more than 15 degrees, and the wind is over 15 knots it is about time to start trimming and reefing (you might know this already). There are books on this (look in chandlery) and the topic has been addressed many times before. I can't say whether the extra three feet will make a difference. I moved up from a 23 foot swing-keel boat to a Hunter 30 and the performance and handling difference is remarkable. The capsize screen on a Hunter 28.5 is 2.19. Ideally, it should be below 2.0. I wouldn't worry about though. That Hunter won't dump you in the water. The Yanmar is a very reliable and serviceable engine. Maintain it correctly and you will be pleased with its performance. 18 hp should be about right for the Hunter 28.5. The packing sleeve question has been answered admirably.
Heeling is part of sailing. My wife hates it too, but she is getting used to it. Try to relax and enjoy. If your heeling more than 15 degrees, and the wind is over 15 knots it is about time to start trimming and reefing (you might know this already). There are books on this (look in chandlery) and the topic has been addressed many times before. I can't say whether the extra three feet will make a difference. I moved up from a 23 foot swing-keel boat to a Hunter 30 and the performance and handling difference is remarkable. The capsize screen on a Hunter 28.5 is 2.19. Ideally, it should be below 2.0. I wouldn't worry about though. That Hunter won't dump you in the water. The Yanmar is a very reliable and serviceable engine. Maintain it correctly and you will be pleased with its performance. 18 hp should be about right for the Hunter 28.5. The packing sleeve question has been answered admirably.
To answer your questions,
Heeling is part of sailing. My wife hates it too, but she is getting used to it. Try to relax and enjoy. If your heeling more than 15 degrees, and the wind is over 15 knots it is about time to start trimming and reefing (you might know this already). There are books on this (look in chandlery) and the topic has been addressed many times before. I can't say whether the extra three feet will make a difference. I moved up from a 23 foot swing-keel boat to a Hunter 30 and the performance and handling difference is remarkable. The capsize screen on a Hunter 28.5 is 2.19. Ideally, it should be below 2.0. I wouldn't worry about though. That Hunter won't dump you in the water. The Yanmar is a very reliable and serviceable engine. Maintain it correctly and you will be pleased with its performance. 18 hp should be about right for the Hunter 28.5. The packing sleeve question has been answered admirably.
Heeling is part of sailing. My wife hates it too, but she is getting used to it. Try to relax and enjoy. If your heeling more than 15 degrees, and the wind is over 15 knots it is about time to start trimming and reefing (you might know this already). There are books on this (look in chandlery) and the topic has been addressed many times before. I can't say whether the extra three feet will make a difference. I moved up from a 23 foot swing-keel boat to a Hunter 30 and the performance and handling difference is remarkable. The capsize screen on a Hunter 28.5 is 2.19. Ideally, it should be below 2.0. I wouldn't worry about though. That Hunter won't dump you in the water. The Yanmar is a very reliable and serviceable engine. Maintain it correctly and you will be pleased with its performance. 18 hp should be about right for the Hunter 28.5. The packing sleeve question has been answered admirably.
MANY THANKS TO YOU ALL l!!!!!!!
Wow!, What quick responds from you folks. I worked late yesterday,came home and pounded out a bunch of questions and when I woke {a 4:00 am} all of the answer's were there. Many thanks and what a great site. I will take my sails in to be checked, the money I save in sales tax alone should pay for any repairs needed to my sails. How ever if they check out ok I will trade my boat in and look forward to joining the Hunter Family. thanks again, Jack
Wow!, What quick responds from you folks. I worked late yesterday,came home and pounded out a bunch of questions and when I woke {a 4:00 am} all of the answer's were there. Many thanks and what a great site. I will take my sails in to be checked, the money I save in sales tax alone should pay for any repairs needed to my sails. How ever if they check out ok I will trade my boat in and look forward to joining the Hunter Family. thanks again, Jack
MANY THANKS TO YOU ALL l!!!!!!!
Wow!, What quick responds from you folks. I worked late yesterday,came home and pounded out a bunch of questions and when I woke {a 4:00 am} all of the answer's were there. Many thanks and what a great site. I will take my sails in to be checked, the money I save in sales tax alone should pay for any repairs needed to my sails. How ever if they check out ok I will trade my boat in and look forward to joining the Hunter Family. thanks again, Jack
Wow!, What quick responds from you folks. I worked late yesterday,came home and pounded out a bunch of questions and when I woke {a 4:00 am} all of the answer's were there. Many thanks and what a great site. I will take my sails in to be checked, the money I save in sales tax alone should pay for any repairs needed to my sails. How ever if they check out ok I will trade my boat in and look forward to joining the Hunter Family. thanks again, Jack
Question
My H376 has the dripless packing, I remember when it was surveyed and hauled out that you had to do something special when the boat was re-launched, the surveyor said he needed to "burp" the dripless packing. Unfortunatly I didn't see what he did, I was topside and figured that the manual would reference it but I could never find mention of it. Anybody ever heard of this?
My H376 has the dripless packing, I remember when it was surveyed and hauled out that you had to do something special when the boat was re-launched, the surveyor said he needed to "burp" the dripless packing. Unfortunatly I didn't see what he did, I was topside and figured that the manual would reference it but I could never find mention of it. Anybody ever heard of this?
Question
My H376 has the dripless packing, I remember when it was surveyed and hauled out that you had to do something special when the boat was re-launched, the surveyor said he needed to "burp" the dripless packing. Unfortunatly I didn't see what he did, I was topside and figured that the manual would reference it but I could never find mention of it. Anybody ever heard of this?
My H376 has the dripless packing, I remember when it was surveyed and hauled out that you had to do something special when the boat was re-launched, the surveyor said he needed to "burp" the dripless packing. Unfortunatly I didn't see what he did, I was topside and figured that the manual would reference it but I could never find mention of it. Anybody ever heard of this?
Reply to David Ochoa
Yes, and you can double check by doing it yourself. All it entails is to grab the bellows and push it back aft away from the collar until enough water flows out so as to evacuate any trapped air. It's a ten-second deal. Rick D.
Yes, and you can double check by doing it yourself. All it entails is to grab the bellows and push it back aft away from the collar until enough water flows out so as to evacuate any trapped air. It's a ten-second deal. Rick D.
Reply to David Ochoa
Yes, and you can double check by doing it yourself. All it entails is to grab the bellows and push it back aft away from the collar until enough water flows out so as to evacuate any trapped air. It's a ten-second deal. Rick D.
Yes, and you can double check by doing it yourself. All it entails is to grab the bellows and push it back aft away from the collar until enough water flows out so as to evacuate any trapped air. It's a ten-second deal. Rick D.
H28.5
I bought a 1986 H28.5 last year and love the boat. I suggest you read all the owners reviews on this site and you'll get a full range of opinions, pro and con, about the boat. I think Hunter packed a lot of value into this model boat. My boat has the original nylon stuffing box and I'm thinking of replacing it with the PSS Dripless Gland. You may want to Google PSS dripless gland (it may be uner PYI, not sure) and get a good sense of it and how it works. My boat has the Yanmar diesel and its been a great engine; easy to service, plenty of power, very efficient. The shoal H28.5 (4 ft draft) will heel more than the deep draft model (5 ft 2 in), but is easy to control and lets you gunkhole in places where you can't go with deep draft model. I would only recommend the deep draft model if you are a serious PHRF racer. Let me know if you need more details.
I bought a 1986 H28.5 last year and love the boat. I suggest you read all the owners reviews on this site and you'll get a full range of opinions, pro and con, about the boat. I think Hunter packed a lot of value into this model boat. My boat has the original nylon stuffing box and I'm thinking of replacing it with the PSS Dripless Gland. You may want to Google PSS dripless gland (it may be uner PYI, not sure) and get a good sense of it and how it works. My boat has the Yanmar diesel and its been a great engine; easy to service, plenty of power, very efficient. The shoal H28.5 (4 ft draft) will heel more than the deep draft model (5 ft 2 in), but is easy to control and lets you gunkhole in places where you can't go with deep draft model. I would only recommend the deep draft model if you are a serious PHRF racer. Let me know if you need more details.
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