Has anyone had any BAD experiences with installing and in-service use of a dripless shaft seal, similar to a PSY??? I'm thinking of installing one on my H34, but I've heard that they can wear out and leak. I've also heard that when they do leak, it's pretty bad. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks!
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gushing
Mine was a factory installation, an open tube run up to the top of the engine box. It wouldn't leak, but rather would gush, at high rpms in reverse. I only discovered it after my engine started rusting a few months after the boat was commisioned. My dealer's solution was to cap it off, (and to refuse to deal with the rust) but I talked to the manufacturer of the packing gland and discovered that this solution could trap air in the gland itself after a diver had scrubbed the bottom or after a haul-out. It's possible to burp the air, but they suggested that the line be spliced into the engine's raw water cooling system. This ended up being a simple job; I had my Yanmar mechanic do it but probably could have done it myself had I not been worried about voiding warranties.......... By the way, I sure wish people would sign their posts. We have no way of knowing whether that previous post came from an actual boat owner or some boatless waif wanting to show off his/her acuity with foreign languages. People on this site invest lots of $$$ depending on the experience of other OWNERS, so I don't think it's too much to ask people to take responsibility for their opinions.
Mine was a factory installation, an open tube run up to the top of the engine box. It wouldn't leak, but rather would gush, at high rpms in reverse. I only discovered it after my engine started rusting a few months after the boat was commisioned. My dealer's solution was to cap it off, (and to refuse to deal with the rust) but I talked to the manufacturer of the packing gland and discovered that this solution could trap air in the gland itself after a diver had scrubbed the bottom or after a haul-out. It's possible to burp the air, but they suggested that the line be spliced into the engine's raw water cooling system. This ended up being a simple job; I had my Yanmar mechanic do it but probably could have done it myself had I not been worried about voiding warranties.......... By the way, I sure wish people would sign their posts. We have no way of knowing whether that previous post came from an actual boat owner or some boatless waif wanting to show off his/her acuity with foreign languages. People on this site invest lots of $$$ depending on the experience of other OWNERS, so I don't think it's too much to ask people to take responsibility for their opinions.
Salt water damage on engine
John, I also had the open tube running up to the top of the engine box. It also gushed salt water all over my engine. My dealer also capped it off (a little too late) and after almost a year of persistance, the engine is going to be removed from the boat, and completely refurbished including replacement of all electrical parts. Their initial solution was to spray paint over the rust with a rattle can. John, keep calling your dealer, hunter, and anyone who will or won't listen. It is not fair for you to settle for a rusty engine because of a manufacturer's mistake. Has anyone else had this problem?
John, I also had the open tube running up to the top of the engine box. It also gushed salt water all over my engine. My dealer also capped it off (a little too late) and after almost a year of persistance, the engine is going to be removed from the boat, and completely refurbished including replacement of all electrical parts. Their initial solution was to spray paint over the rust with a rattle can. John, keep calling your dealer, hunter, and anyone who will or won't listen. It is not fair for you to settle for a rusty engine because of a manufacturer's mistake. Has anyone else had this problem?
Strange Sounds, But No Leaks
Joe, I put the seal on in June. So far, no leaks. The bilge stayed dry for a couple of weeks. I noticed some water after the rain we had a week or so ago. I must have a leak somewhere else. I am trying to get the boat dry and keep it that way so it won't smell musty. We went to Petaluma a couple of weeks ago and when we got back I noticed a big black stripe all the way around the interior of the hull and under the aft berth plywood. I don't know if that was related to a normal break-in since that was the first sustained operation after bringing the boat back from Svendsen's. The other thing that is weird are the sounds we now get. I don't know if there are now some new resonances since the shaft is only supported at the cutlass bearing and the engine coupling as opposed to being held captive by the old stuffing box, but it sounds different. Certain RPMs are the most pronounced. At times it is very quiet and other times (like when turning the boat to starboard) there is all kinds of noise. I checked the TIR on the shaft and it is around 0.003". It is not rubbing on the stern tube as far as I can tell and it is well aligned in the strut. Check the previous posts under my name an you will see a rather detailed description of how my wife and I realigned the strut after changing the old cutlass bearing. I also added the Drive Saver. It is a flexible spacer that is added between the flanges of the coupling. It pushes the prop back about an inch. I did not cut the shaft off to compensate. I hope that extra inch that the prop is now back from the strut isn't causing any undue flexinng of the shaft. I haven't tried running with the new seal and no Drive Saver. Overall, I am happy with the dripless seal. It appears to be operating as advertised. I just need to resolve or accept the noise factor. It was pretty easy to install. If you are going to do it yourself, start soaking the coupling with a penetrant as that is the hardest part to remove. Since we are next door marina neighbors, you are welcome to come over and check it out. We can take it out for a spin. Regards, Allan "Alchemie" H34 Alameda (OYC)
Joe, I put the seal on in June. So far, no leaks. The bilge stayed dry for a couple of weeks. I noticed some water after the rain we had a week or so ago. I must have a leak somewhere else. I am trying to get the boat dry and keep it that way so it won't smell musty. We went to Petaluma a couple of weeks ago and when we got back I noticed a big black stripe all the way around the interior of the hull and under the aft berth plywood. I don't know if that was related to a normal break-in since that was the first sustained operation after bringing the boat back from Svendsen's. The other thing that is weird are the sounds we now get. I don't know if there are now some new resonances since the shaft is only supported at the cutlass bearing and the engine coupling as opposed to being held captive by the old stuffing box, but it sounds different. Certain RPMs are the most pronounced. At times it is very quiet and other times (like when turning the boat to starboard) there is all kinds of noise. I checked the TIR on the shaft and it is around 0.003". It is not rubbing on the stern tube as far as I can tell and it is well aligned in the strut. Check the previous posts under my name an you will see a rather detailed description of how my wife and I realigned the strut after changing the old cutlass bearing. I also added the Drive Saver. It is a flexible spacer that is added between the flanges of the coupling. It pushes the prop back about an inch. I did not cut the shaft off to compensate. I hope that extra inch that the prop is now back from the strut isn't causing any undue flexinng of the shaft. I haven't tried running with the new seal and no Drive Saver. Overall, I am happy with the dripless seal. It appears to be operating as advertised. I just need to resolve or accept the noise factor. It was pretty easy to install. If you are going to do it yourself, start soaking the coupling with a penetrant as that is the hardest part to remove. Since we are next door marina neighbors, you are welcome to come over and check it out. We can take it out for a spin. Regards, Allan "Alchemie" H34 Alameda (OYC)
Putting dripless on Hunter 40
I just bought a Hunter 40, its hauled out and having bottom done etc. The local Hunter dealer and former owner both recommended the dripless fitting, and I was planning to install it until I read these posts. Would really appreciate any more info, I'm planning an extended Caribean cruise next season and may just stay with the original fitting based on these posts. Many thanks in advance.
I just bought a Hunter 40, its hauled out and having bottom done etc. The local Hunter dealer and former owner both recommended the dripless fitting, and I was planning to install it until I read these posts. Would really appreciate any more info, I'm planning an extended Caribean cruise next season and may just stay with the original fitting based on these posts. Many thanks in advance.
Chris - Do It!
I just did on a 40.5 and the installation was easy. I did a post on HOW it was done. Just follow the PYI instructions on installing the PSS plus use a bag of ice on the shaft with a towel over it during the removal of the coupling from the shaft and again during the insertion of the shaft into the coupling. I have talked to 20+ sailors who use PSS and know others who have used them, some for many years, and they all report good results (NO salt water in the bilge). I did hear a rumor of a rip in the bellows that required a replacement (haulout). I think a LOT of duct tape might stem the flow until you could haul her out.
I just did on a 40.5 and the installation was easy. I did a post on HOW it was done. Just follow the PYI instructions on installing the PSS plus use a bag of ice on the shaft with a towel over it during the removal of the coupling from the shaft and again during the insertion of the shaft into the coupling. I have talked to 20+ sailors who use PSS and know others who have used them, some for many years, and they all report good results (NO salt water in the bilge). I did hear a rumor of a rip in the bellows that required a replacement (haulout). I think a LOT of duct tape might stem the flow until you could haul her out.
I have been happy with the dripless fitting
I have been happy with the dripless fitting with the exception of the open tube which ran up above the engine. The purpose of the tube is prevent you from having to burp the seal during a haulout. I would definitely get a dripless fitting again, but if it has the tube make sure it is plumbed correctly. Mine is currently plugged, but I will look into replumbing it like john farnsworth suggests.
I have been happy with the dripless fitting with the exception of the open tube which ran up above the engine. The purpose of the tube is prevent you from having to burp the seal during a haulout. I would definitely get a dripless fitting again, but if it has the tube make sure it is plumbed correctly. Mine is currently plugged, but I will look into replumbing it like john farnsworth suggests.
Installed a PSY myself
on my H34, 84. Have had it for 4 years and average about 1200 km /year under the keel. Never had a problem. Have no idea what someone was talking about regarding a tube to the top of the engine. I burbit when I drop in & burp it when I haul out, Chicago winters you know. I do follow the instructions about adding a little dish solution as a coating to the fitting at burp time. Had to take the prop off to install and the best way to reinstall the shaft back in to the flange that bolts the the transmission flange was to but a piece of wood on the end of the prop shaft to keep it from being rounded, then use another long 2 x 4 as a battering ram. You seem to get more force than with a hammer, & if you miss the wood/shaft you will minimize damage to the strut etc. BOL PJ
on my H34, 84. Have had it for 4 years and average about 1200 km /year under the keel. Never had a problem. Have no idea what someone was talking about regarding a tube to the top of the engine. I burbit when I drop in & burp it when I haul out, Chicago winters you know. I do follow the instructions about adding a little dish solution as a coating to the fitting at burp time. Had to take the prop off to install and the best way to reinstall the shaft back in to the flange that bolts the the transmission flange was to but a piece of wood on the end of the prop shaft to keep it from being rounded, then use another long 2 x 4 as a battering ram. You seem to get more force than with a hammer, & if you miss the wood/shaft you will minimize damage to the strut etc. BOL PJ
PJ: Not sure but.........
I think the tube that they are complaining/talking about is for the high speed shaft seals. This makes them auto-burping. And yes I can see that you may just have salt water spraying all over your engine? I think that the ones that are for sailboats don't have this. This is their low speed model. Someone can pipe in here if I am blowing seawater.
I think the tube that they are complaining/talking about is for the high speed shaft seals. This makes them auto-burping. And yes I can see that you may just have salt water spraying all over your engine? I think that the ones that are for sailboats don't have this. This is their low speed model. Someone can pipe in here if I am blowing seawater.
Thanks Everyone...I'll order it!
I'll order the low speed version without the tube. Allan...I'll give you a call to make a date when I can come over and see your installation. Thanks! Joe
I'll order the low speed version without the tube. Allan...I'll give you a call to make a date when I can come over and see your installation. Thanks! Joe
yep
You're right, Steve. It's the high-speed shaft seal that I have on my boat. Mine is now plummed into the raw water exhaust, just upstream of the vent. Solves the problem of the salt water gushing over the engine in reverse, and keeps the gland from having to be burped manually. All it took was splicing a T into the water line, but I don't remember exactly what fittings were used. Standard plumbing stuff. Not a difficult job.
You're right, Steve. It's the high-speed shaft seal that I have on my boat. Mine is now plummed into the raw water exhaust, just upstream of the vent. Solves the problem of the salt water gushing over the engine in reverse, and keeps the gland from having to be burped manually. All it took was splicing a T into the water line, but I don't remember exactly what fittings were used. Standard plumbing stuff. Not a difficult job.
Piece of Cake
Joe, I installed the PSS shaft seal on my 450 myself this spring as recommended by the manufacturer and it is the type without the extra tube. You can make life very easy by buying a two arm gear puller at Sears for around $25. I installed my in about 4 hours. The toughest part was getting the old hose off of the shaft log, they have it put on with some pretty strong adhesive. I cut the hose and then peeled it around the nipple. Make sure you align the bellows around the shaft when you are near the end, this is very important. You do have to burp the bellows in the spring, very easy, just pull it back from the face until water runs through. I have not had one single drip of water through the seal this summer with over 60 hours of engine time. A great addition to the boat once I got over the first few weeks fear of sinking. Would do it again on any boat I owned.
Joe, I installed the PSS shaft seal on my 450 myself this spring as recommended by the manufacturer and it is the type without the extra tube. You can make life very easy by buying a two arm gear puller at Sears for around $25. I installed my in about 4 hours. The toughest part was getting the old hose off of the shaft log, they have it put on with some pretty strong adhesive. I cut the hose and then peeled it around the nipple. Make sure you align the bellows around the shaft when you are near the end, this is very important. You do have to burp the bellows in the spring, very easy, just pull it back from the face until water runs through. I have not had one single drip of water through the seal this summer with over 60 hours of engine time. A great addition to the boat once I got over the first few weeks fear of sinking. Would do it again on any boat I owned.
Rip in Bellows
My two teay old 450 came with the PYI Dripless Shaft Seal. Up until now, it lived up to its name. I have had no water in the bilge due to a leaking seal. Last week however, I noticed the bilge pump coming on quite frequently. The bellows on the seal had sprung a leak at one of the "folds". It is a small tear or rip about 1/4" long. Some black electrical tape stopped the leak until the new seal is installed. The mechanic says he will change the bellows without having to haul the boat. The shaft only needs to be pulled back about 16" to do the job. Even with this problem, I am happy with the seals performance. I am going to ask PYI if they have had a "batch" of defective bellows.
My two teay old 450 came with the PYI Dripless Shaft Seal. Up until now, it lived up to its name. I have had no water in the bilge due to a leaking seal. Last week however, I noticed the bilge pump coming on quite frequently. The bellows on the seal had sprung a leak at one of the "folds". It is a small tear or rip about 1/4" long. Some black electrical tape stopped the leak until the new seal is installed. The mechanic says he will change the bellows without having to haul the boat. The shaft only needs to be pulled back about 16" to do the job. Even with this problem, I am happy with the seals performance. I am going to ask PYI if they have had a "batch" of defective bellows.
G. Fletcher - I Spoke with Rep
I spoke with a PSS rep this weekend and he said the life expectancy on the bellows is several years. There are some commercial applications that have been on for 11 years. I don't know the warranty period, but it sems that yours should fall under warranty.
I spoke with a PSS rep this weekend and he said the life expectancy on the bellows is several years. There are some commercial applications that have been on for 11 years. I don't know the warranty period, but it sems that yours should fall under warranty.
For what it is worth - - -
Dealer's mechanic chnaged the "bellows" in about two hours. No haul out needed. Diver/mechanic pulled the shaft back far enough to remove the old bellows and replace it with the new one. I too, am now, "dripless" again.
Dealer's mechanic chnaged the "bellows" in about two hours. No haul out needed. Diver/mechanic pulled the shaft back far enough to remove the old bellows and replace it with the new one. I too, am now, "dripless" again.
DRIPLESS STUFFING BOX
I had a PSS seal instalaled on my H42 in the fall of 95. No drips and works well. No need to install the high speed version, they are intended for power boats. No need to burp on haul out, only after launch. Takes two minutes, Just push the bellows back slightly and let the air out. Very well satisfied with this superior product.
I had a PSS seal instalaled on my H42 in the fall of 95. No drips and works well. No need to install the high speed version, they are intended for power boats. No need to burp on haul out, only after launch. Takes two minutes, Just push the bellows back slightly and let the air out. Very well satisfied with this superior product.
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