Dripless Shaft Packing

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Feb 6, 1998
11,723
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Sorry to disagree, but you're simply parroting an old wife's tale which seems determined not die in this generation and maybe not even the next :naughty:.

Ralph,

What has worked in your n=1 does not necessarily make for good science... These old wives tales are quite often true for a reason. The fact remains that your box is getting lubrication even though it may not visibly drip... Problem is this is a fine line to attain and could lead someone with lesser skills into trouble.
 
Nov 22, 2011
1,277
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
Please be VERY, VERY careful attempting to run a stuffing box completely dry or dripless not just drips-less. There is HUGE difference between bone dry, and water lubed but no "visible" dripping. This is a very, very tight margin to attain.

<snip>
This parallels my stuffing box experiences exactly, limited though they are in comparison to yours.

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I was able to get the Goretex packing adjusted to where it would "weep" just a bit from the front of the shaft when in gear and then not drip with the shaft at rest. (By "weep" I mean you can see the water glistening on the front of the shaft but there are no visible drips falling off the bottom of the shaft.) But I have also experienced the issue you mentioned, i.e., where all of a sudden the temps would spike, apparently out of nowhere. I wondered what might be the cause of that until I ran across the info on your site. So now, rather than trying to maintain the fine line, I err on the side of letting it drip a bit to give me a safety margin so it doesn't overheat.

I monitor the temp with a cheap digital temp. meter with remote sensor made by AEI. It's only $24. http://www.amazon.com/Digital-tempe...0KVFQ/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2OXMMY6UKNCC
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,723
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
This parallels my stuffing box experiences exactly, limited though they are in comparison to yours.

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I was able to get the Goretex packing adjusted to where it would "weep" just a bit from the front of the shaft when in gear and then not drip with the shaft at rest. (By "weep" I mean you can see the water glistening on the front of the shaft but there are no visible drips falling off the bottom of the shaft.) But I have also experienced the issue you mentioned, i.e., where all of a sudden the temps would start to rise, apparently out of nowhere. I wondered what might be the cause of that until I ran across the info on your site. So now, rather than trying to maintain the fine line, I err on the side of letting it drip a bit to give me a safety margin so it doesn't overheat.

I monitor the temp with a cheap digital temp. meter with remote sensor made by AEI. It's only $24. http://www.amazon.com/Digital-tempe...0KVFQ/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2OXMMY6UKNCC
This is a near perfect adjustment, just a ring of water between the shaft and nut interface. As you found out however it may not always be enough lube on all boats especially if prone to air entrapment.....

I have found an ideal margin (with synthetic packings) to be 1 drip about every three minutes or so. I place a rag under the nut and the engine heat drys it so there is no water in the bilge.

During testing I have actually physically melted two temp sensors when they mistakenly got set to "temp 2" and the box spiked.....
 
Nov 22, 2011
1,277
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
This is a near perfect adjustment, just a ring of water between the shaft and nut interface. As you found out however it may not always be enough lube on all boats especially if prone to air entrapment.....

I have found an ideal margin (with synthetic packings) to be 1 drip about every three minutes or so. I place a rag under the nut and the engine heat drys it so there is no water in the bilge.

During testing I have actually physically melted two temp sensors when they mistakenly got set to "temp 2" and the box spiked.....
You know, I spent a bunch of time trying to attain the dripless "holy grail" and finally came to the conclusion that a small amount of dripping is no big deal anyway, and I'd rather err on the side of making sure the shaft is cool. So personally, I have no concerns about a few drips a minute with the turning shaft, so long as I can get it "virtually dripless" when the shaft is stationary. Practiallly speaking I don't get a great deal of water in the bilge from this anyway, so I've stopped worrying about it.
 
Oct 17, 2011
2,809
Ericson 29 Southport..
Well snot. I might back it up a flat. Or half. I thought I had reached that "perfect" adjustment, but it's starting to sound like the margin for catastrophic error is too high. So..

When are we gonna get a crack at that packing Maine?
 
Jan 30, 2012
1,150
Nor'Sea 27 "Kiwanda" Portland/ Anacortes
Yes. How about a package marked "experimental - no warranty express or implied." Just like your average homemade air plane.

That way dollars saved on Gore or Duramax Ultra-X are automatically available to fund the Compass Marine R & D.

Charles
 
Oct 17, 2011
2,809
Ericson 29 Southport..
Dohh. Aw, I was thinking something else brand new..

(And I think I'm gonna try and talk the ol' lady into trying to burp the box).
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,441
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Ralph,

What has worked in your n=1 does not necessarily make for good science...
Maine Sail,

As always, hate to disagree, but you'll find that n>1 if you look at all the replies to previous packing threads that have appeared here in which the writers agree with running their packing dry.

Actually, I thought my science was pretty good in my write up:

-teflon as a lubricant is much better that water. Simple enough. (and I certainly hope no one mentions a hydraulic wedge as there's no diminishing gap here).

-three drips of water/min. provides cooling ? ? ? ? Doubtful when you look at a calculation for heat removal:

REMOVAL OF FRICTIONAL HEAT

1 drop of water = 0.1 ml.

3 drops/min.=0.3 ml./min = 0.00066 lb/min.

given a 100 deg. rise = 0.066 BTU/min.

- shows that there's not much heat being generated if three drops/min. keep the shaft cool. And that's allowing for a 100 deg. rise which never happens. I don't think a 1" shaft is going to have too much trouble conducting 0.07 BTU/min. into the cold, cold sea. That's why my shaft runs at 62 deg. F with no lubrication.

I've seen the number of shafts which you've posted showing damage due to supposedly running dry. However, I still maintain it has more to do with the condition of the packing, most likely old,old rock hard packing which is just tightened for all its worth to reduce the inrush of water. Heavy silt in the water probably wouldn't help in other cases.

Careful packing of the gland is mandatory if you want to run dry but I think it's completely realistic. Western Pacific Trading says so, other member's experiences say so, science says so .................. so good enough for me.

INHO, a wet, humidifying bilge is just too big a negative to a well kept boat to allow a packing gland to leak.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,723
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Maine Sail,

As always, hate to disagree, but you'll find that n>1 if you look at all the replies to previous packing threads that have appeared here in which the writers agree with running their packing dry.

Actually, I thought my science was pretty good in my write up:

-teflon as a lubricant is much better that water. Simple enough. (and I certainly hope no one mentions a hydraulic wedge as there's no diminishing gap here).

-three drips of water/min. provides cooling ? ? ? ? Doubtful when you look at a calculation for heat removal:

REMOVAL OF FRICTIONAL HEAT

1 drop of water = 0.1 ml.

3 drops/min.=0.3 ml./min = 0.00066 lb/min.

given a 100 deg. rise = 0.066 BTU/min.

- shows that there's not much heat being generated if three drops/min. keep the shaft cool. And that's allowing for a 100 deg. rise which never happens. I don't think a 1" shaft is going to have too much trouble conducting 0.07 BTU/min. into the cold, cold sea. That's why my shaft runs at 62 deg. F with no lubrication.

I've seen the number of shafts which you've posted showing damage due to supposedly running dry. However, I still maintain it has more to do with the condition of the packing, most likely old,old rock hard packing which is just tightened for all its worth to reduce the inrush of water. Heavy silt in the water probably wouldn't help in other cases.

Careful packing of the gland is mandatory if you want to run dry but I think it's completely realistic. Western Pacific Trading says so, other member's experiences say so, science says so .................. so good enough for me.

INHO, a wet, humidifying bilge is just too big a negative to a well kept boat to allow a packing gland to leak.
Ralph,

As you well know the "drips" do not provide the cooling effect they only ensure your shaft is riding on a thin film of water. Better packing materials require less of a film but they are all still water lubricated. It is the thin film of water the shaft rides on between the packing and the shaft that limits the heat build up. Lose the thin film and heat builds up very fast.

I just yesterday met with the owner and chief engineer of my US braider and went over the latest testing data. One of these tests was to adjust for zero drips but still thin film lubed. They do not recommend this on any of their 80+ packing variations. Their general recomendation for all industries is 8 drops per minute. Braid specific recommendations vary and can be as little as 1 drip or less per minute, based on temp. At low shaft speeds, slower than sailboat shafts turn, in testing we could maintain the thin film without it dripping, just a faint bead around the shaft and gland, but as speed was increased the water would evaporate and send the temps spiking. A thick bead between shaft and gland resulted in slightly incresed temps at sailboat shaft speeds but it remained lubed. The margin for this adjustment however is very tricky. The adjustment for this type of use is critical and likely why Gore and Duramax DO NOT say their packings can be adjusted to run dry.

This is not much different than how a cutlass bearing works. Rubber on a metal shaft with only water..? Water is a poor lubricant... Yes, it is but a thin film of it works like magic. Run a cutlass dry out of the water and you'll smoke it in very short order yet put it in the water and the thin film of water allows it to run at about the same temp as the ocean.

As I mentioned before my bilge is BONE DRY. In fact my bilge is drier than every one of the hundreds and hundreds of boats I step onto. I am allergic to mold so a dry bilge, as in dust down there, is critical. I am using a shaft packing not a PSS.

With careful adjustment I have no water in my bilge or in my engine compartment. This does not mean my packing is not water lubed. As I said a blanket suggestion to run it drip free or dry can be dangerous and folks need to understand that braided packings are intended to be water lubed.

To my braider the marine market is peanuts. These guys ship out millions of pounds of packing per year to industry, military and pharmaceutical and food processing. They have over 35 years of testing. Braided packings are water lubed and this was driven home to me yesterday quite hard by the owner of the company.

"Don't you think industry has pestered us and requested leak free packings? If it was possible we are the company that can do it. It is not possible to run dry on a rotational shaft spinning at the FPM you require."



Trust me I want to sell a drip-free packing but it is not going to happen. Thousands of dollars in testing, at the shaft speeds I requested, have confirmed this. Gore and Duramax are spot on with their terms "virtually no water" and "virtually drip free".

I am in no way suggesting you can not have a "dry" or "virtually dry" bilge with braided packings. You can. My main concern is that many boaters will not understand the fine line between dry and water lube but not dripping.

This a representation of the adjustment margin on actual in-water testing on a boat:
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,441
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
As you well know the "drips" do not provide the cooling effect they only ensure your shaft is riding on a thin film of water.
Glad to see that we've finally done away with the old wive's tale that the few drips/ minute is cooling the packing. I've seen the dripping cooling theory presented in almost every article I've read on the packing of shaft glands.

We're going to have to agree to disagree on the idea of a water film doing the lubrication as opposed to plain and simple dry lubrication using teflon. But film or no film, dripping is just not necessary on the low shaft surface speeds one finds on a sailboat. Anything above that yes, sailboats no.

Thanks for the interesting discussion.
 
Nov 22, 2011
1,277
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
To summarize, here is what we know about conventional kinds of packing in a standard stuffing box:

1. All shafts/packing require water for lubrication. They cannot be run “bone dry.” This is confirmed both by packing and by stuffing box manufacturers.

2. A thin film of water can provide sufficient lubrication.

3. It is possible to adjust a stuffing box so that this thin film of water is present without actual dripping. However, this requires a very precise and limited range of adjustment which, even when achieved, could be compromised (on some boats at least) due to air entrapment that may occur unexpectedly after this ideal adjustment has been achieved. (This was the case with my old Catalina 30, and corresponds to MaineSail’s testing as well.)

4. Therefore, if one does not want to run the risk of air entrapment and still maintain the ring of water between the shaft and nut interface--which is *required* to keep the nut cool--allowing an occasional drip while the shaft is in rotation will accomplish this.
 
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