Dripless packing bearing dripping

[crosswind]

Happy Sunday to all...

I purchased a 79 H30 a cpl years ago making me the 3rd owner.

When purchased, I received extremely limited info on past history.

Having run across the usual issues.. Compression post, window seals, wiring harness, etcetera... I'm now dealing with a dripless hub that is now spraying water from it where the metal meets the rubber on the engine side.

Is this time for replacement or as one friend suggested; adjust the sleeve to re tighten the seal?

Anyone have knowledge in this area?

 

[wufibugs]

Dealing with the same issue. I tried adjusting the sleeve and that did reduce, but not eliminate the leak. Haven't run the engine after the adjustment because of other fuel related projects, but possible that putting the seal into service might mate the faces and eliminate the leak. Anything on the sealing face or any pitting will prevent this from being truly dripless. My conclusion is that because the consequences are potentially catastrophic, and haul out for bottom paint is imminent, replacing the seal is the safer course. For the 1" shaft, the kit is about $240.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

If you don't know the maintenance history, that should give you all the info you need to start your own (maintenance). Why try tightening a packing with no knowledge of its age, integrity, etc?

 

[Bill Roosa]

don't think they have packing on the drip-less Don
The more I read posts about problems with drip-less glands leaking and the hundreds of $$$ to fix the more I like my old re-packable gland.
Time tested, mother approved and CHEAP to repair

 

[seadaddler]

Did that

Yes compress the rubber 1/2 inch but if still leaking must put very fine
sand paper in between to clean it nice and smooth surface,do this only if
the compression doesn't stop the leak the sand paper cleaning goes in between
the metal round ring and the hard plastic piece.
Go to PSS web page for all the info about the 4 set screws remove,yes water will pour out when doing this but don't.
Nick

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

don't think they have packing on the drip-less Don
The more I read posts about problems with drip-less glands leaking and the hundreds of $$$ to fix the more I like my old re-packable gland.
Time tested, mother approved and CHEAP to repair

I interpreted, maybe incorrectly, what he said about packing to mean "drip less".

My mistake.

Often, some folks assume drip less packing will prevent leaking rather than focusing on the "less" part of the nomenclature.

 

[seadaddler]

leaking

Mine was leaking also and sanded both pieces so they were with out
pitting on surface and just used fine sand paper until nice and smooth
and put back together and nice now and compressed rubber 1/2 inch
and everything works fine and no leaks that all that's needed for sure,I did replace with new set screws too.
nick

 

[crosswind]

Very excellent knowledge base.

Always reading as my 79 H30 is always challenging me with something new.

I have found all service manuals of the yanmar series engines I f anyone is interested.

I will try the sandpaper route using some 600 grit paper I have in an effort to smooth the surface of the ring. Also I will reseat the seal a bit as feels right. The 1/2" stated in this thread sounds about right based on how much I can retract it by hand. Yes I do get a rush of water when doing so, but flushing the bilge isn't a bad thing to do eh?

Thank you all for your replies. I will report back with the results once accomplished.

 

[Benny17441]

Whether it is a dripless or an old packing gland It is my feeling that when it gets to the point that water is spraying when the shaft turns that it is best to replace the whole system. A packing gland will usually give you a heads up when they start a more frequent drip; on the other hand the dripless may fail with no warning. By the time they are spraying water they have failed. In a pinch they could be repaired but for the trouble and peace of mind I would rather replace them.

 

[seadaddler]

Dripless

I did redo my dripless when I hauled for new bottom paint and was very easy
to sand the 2 pieces when no water was rushing in.
I was told by some one else he just slipped sand paper in between and turning shape did work to make better seal and than replace 2 of the four set screws,
you do know the stainless ring has 4 set screws and recommended to put 2 new
inner set screws when compressing in 1/2 inch.
I did think to change back to regular gland packing but than decided to keep
what I had and since cleaning with sand paper and compressing it has been good just like new again.
Nick

 

[crosswind]

Good point regarding the fail characteristics of a dripless vs. Old style.

I'm thinking its time for an out haul and just replace it while inspecting the existing post mortum.

Does anyone have a good source for this particular unit?