My new 36 is coming to the dealer the end of jan and thinking of adding dripless packing,has anyone else done this.
Dripless Packing-356-36
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two perspectives
On one hand, they are very popular and there are few, if any, problems. They do require minimal maintenance and don't leak so the bilge stays dry (unless there are other water leaks which almost any boat will have eventually). On the other hand, if the set screw loosens or the outer band moves, the leak can be catastrophic. Although rare, it has happened. The usual argument for using one is comparatively no maintenance and no water ingress. The usual counter-argument is little maintenance and no water ingress with the traditional teflon impregnated flax packing which can be tightened so as to safely preclude any leaking. I'm sure you'll hear recommendations on both sides but I would ask you how difficult it is to gain access to the stuffing box on your new boat? - the answer may dictate which one you go with
On one hand, they are very popular and there are few, if any, problems. They do require minimal maintenance and don't leak so the bilge stays dry (unless there are other water leaks which almost any boat will have eventually). On the other hand, if the set screw loosens or the outer band moves, the leak can be catastrophic. Although rare, it has happened. The usual argument for using one is comparatively no maintenance and no water ingress. The usual counter-argument is little maintenance and no water ingress with the traditional teflon impregnated flax packing which can be tightened so as to safely preclude any leaking. I'm sure you'll hear recommendations on both sides but I would ask you how difficult it is to gain access to the stuffing box on your new boat? - the answer may dictate which one you go with
Seadadler - Changing mine to Dripless Packing
I am changing mine to dripless packing in the stuffing box (not the PYI dripless unit) made of teflon. Suppossedly, it allows one to tighten the stuffing box for no leaks and hopefully a dry bilge. One of the charactistics of the 356-36 bilge is that there is no way to pump the last inch of water out of the bilge because the hose has to rise up and out and when the pump cuts off, the water in the vertical section of hose flows back into the bilge. The two things that can make it dry are to eliminate leakage at the stuffing box, and route your consensing pan water from the HVAC to the shower sump pump. I made a drain for the condensate, ran hose over to the shower sump and connected it to the sump. No more HVAC condensate in the bilge. I use biocide tablets in the condensate pan to eliminate growth in the pan and the hose. My boat is on the hard for three months now. While my dealer is changing out the thru-hulls, I am also replacing the stuffing box flax with the dripless teflon packing. I am anxious to see if this works next season to have a dry bilge. If anyone has made this modification, please advise on how well it worked? The link below is to the product on West Marine.
I am changing mine to dripless packing in the stuffing box (not the PYI dripless unit) made of teflon. Suppossedly, it allows one to tighten the stuffing box for no leaks and hopefully a dry bilge. One of the charactistics of the 356-36 bilge is that there is no way to pump the last inch of water out of the bilge because the hose has to rise up and out and when the pump cuts off, the water in the vertical section of hose flows back into the bilge. The two things that can make it dry are to eliminate leakage at the stuffing box, and route your consensing pan water from the HVAC to the shower sump pump. I made a drain for the condensate, ran hose over to the shower sump and connected it to the sump. No more HVAC condensate in the bilge. I use biocide tablets in the condensate pan to eliminate growth in the pan and the hose. My boat is on the hard for three months now. While my dealer is changing out the thru-hulls, I am also replacing the stuffing box flax with the dripless teflon packing. I am anxious to see if this works next season to have a dry bilge. If anyone has made this modification, please advise on how well it worked? The link below is to the product on West Marine.
Dry Bilge
I have a few friends that swear by GFO packing so I think I will try it when I repack. As for now I inspect my stuffing box regularly and keep a medium size grout sponge wedged under the front where the shaft exits. The few drops are caught by the sponge and evaporate. Thus far no problem with mold, mildew or smell. Seems to dry quite quickly and my bilge has been dry for two years. Jerry, I solved the a/c problem by installing the Mermaid condensator, works by drawing the condensate into the pump stream discharge. No extra pump, no moving parts...super product IMHO.
I have a few friends that swear by GFO packing so I think I will try it when I repack. As for now I inspect my stuffing box regularly and keep a medium size grout sponge wedged under the front where the shaft exits. The few drops are caught by the sponge and evaporate. Thus far no problem with mold, mildew or smell. Seems to dry quite quickly and my bilge has been dry for two years. Jerry, I solved the a/c problem by installing the Mermaid condensator, works by drawing the condensate into the pump stream discharge. No extra pump, no moving parts...super product IMHO.
Dripless Packing on a 356
I installed the PSS Shaft seal on my 2003 356 when it was new and never had a problem with it. The issue around a potential catastophic leak if the set screws back out is easily resolved by installing a 1" zinc on the prop sfaft just forward of the seal,( between the rotating face and the engine) leaving about a 1/8 inch gap. If the seal were to become loose it would only move the 1/8 of an inch toward the zinc still well within the expansion capability of the bellows. The reason for the 1/8 gap is that you can periodicly inspect the gap to be sure that the seal has not moved. I am very comfortable with the seal and its ability to keep the bilge dry that I am installing one on our new boat.
I installed the PSS Shaft seal on my 2003 356 when it was new and never had a problem with it. The issue around a potential catastophic leak if the set screws back out is easily resolved by installing a 1" zinc on the prop sfaft just forward of the seal,( between the rotating face and the engine) leaving about a 1/8 inch gap. If the seal were to become loose it would only move the 1/8 of an inch toward the zinc still well within the expansion capability of the bellows. The reason for the 1/8 gap is that you can periodicly inspect the gap to be sure that the seal has not moved. I am very comfortable with the seal and its ability to keep the bilge dry that I am installing one on our new boat.
Another approach is to install a grease fitting on
the conventional stuffing box. Not hard to do, since the bronze is easy to drill and tap. I have seen several of these, especially on commercial fishboats. Some big old fishboats have a copper pipe that comes up to a convenient spot so you can get the grease gun to the zerk fitting easily. If there are a few tons of fish and ice on top of the stuffing box access, this may be a good idea. With a grease fitting on the stuffing box, you keep a small grease gun with waterpump or waterproof grease (Lithium grease is usually waterproof), and pump in a bit maybe twice a season. The Teflon shaft packing would be good in this application, but old fashioned packing works fine. If the shaft heats up the packing from friction, the grease melts a bit and lubricates it. When the boat will be idle for a while, you can pump in a bit of extra grease and it makes an extra seal to keep water out. I have friends whose boat flooded from a bit of seaweed that got into the dripless system. When they asked around their (Vancouver) marina, they were told "only one boat here sank from that in the last ten years, so they're really safe." I don't think any boats had sunk in that marina EVER from the old stlye stuffing box.
the conventional stuffing box. Not hard to do, since the bronze is easy to drill and tap. I have seen several of these, especially on commercial fishboats. Some big old fishboats have a copper pipe that comes up to a convenient spot so you can get the grease gun to the zerk fitting easily. If there are a few tons of fish and ice on top of the stuffing box access, this may be a good idea. With a grease fitting on the stuffing box, you keep a small grease gun with waterpump or waterproof grease (Lithium grease is usually waterproof), and pump in a bit maybe twice a season. The Teflon shaft packing would be good in this application, but old fashioned packing works fine. If the shaft heats up the packing from friction, the grease melts a bit and lubricates it. When the boat will be idle for a while, you can pump in a bit of extra grease and it makes an extra seal to keep water out. I have friends whose boat flooded from a bit of seaweed that got into the dripless system. When they asked around their (Vancouver) marina, they were told "only one boat here sank from that in the last ten years, so they're really safe." I don't think any boats had sunk in that marina EVER from the old stlye stuffing box.
What Size GFO
I am a new Hunter 37.5 owner and looking to improve the stuffing box by replacing the stuffing with GFO. I looked in the owners manual and it does not say what the dimension is between the O.D. of the shaft and the ID of the box. Is this a standard size for HUNTER or different from size to size. What is the size if you know?
I am a new Hunter 37.5 owner and looking to improve the stuffing box by replacing the stuffing with GFO. I looked in the owners manual and it does not say what the dimension is between the O.D. of the shaft and the ID of the box. Is this a standard size for HUNTER or different from size to size. What is the size if you know?
GFO Packing
I have been using GFO packing now for over 5 years and highly recommend it - it is virtually dripless as advertised and a lot cheaper than a dripless shaft seal unit. The packing size for my Hunter 35.5 is 3/16 although I found that 1/4 inch in the GFO packing would have been a better fit. Ask Hunter Tech - they will tell you what size packing to use for the 37.5.
I have been using GFO packing now for over 5 years and highly recommend it - it is virtually dripless as advertised and a lot cheaper than a dripless shaft seal unit. The packing size for my Hunter 35.5 is 3/16 although I found that 1/4 inch in the GFO packing would have been a better fit. Ask Hunter Tech - they will tell you what size packing to use for the 37.5.
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