I was just curious to here what you guys think about drip rates on driveshafts. I was told to set it at 1 drop per 30 seconds.
Drip Rate on driveshaft
- Thread starter Traumaguard
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Drop in the bucket
You know I tried to research this once, and a cul-de-sac cnsued to ensnare me like a hare in the snare. The packing gland never seem to keep up a steady drip, have to keep setting the watch... I ahve always heard form old salts that 3 to 6 per minute is okay and of course it will be much more when the engine is running with shaft turnning. Dripless are scary, any one with one? Keep a hawk-eye on the hose clamps, oft the screws are of a cheaper stainless and rust out, if the hose clamp goes on a dripless the vessel can sink.
You know I tried to research this once, and a cul-de-sac cnsued to ensnare me like a hare in the snare. The packing gland never seem to keep up a steady drip, have to keep setting the watch... I ahve always heard form old salts that 3 to 6 per minute is okay and of course it will be much more when the engine is running with shaft turnning. Dripless are scary, any one with one? Keep a hawk-eye on the hose clamps, oft the screws are of a cheaper stainless and rust out, if the hose clamp goes on a dripless the vessel can sink.
I've gotten so I tighten it by hand and at first
drip rate seems about 1-3 per minute. As Capt. Ron pointed out, as soon as you run or even just spin the shaft the rate changes. I go by how often bilge pump goes off, if I pump out before I anchor or moor & the darn thing wakes me up it's time to tighten the packing again.
drip rate seems about 1-3 per minute. As Capt. Ron pointed out, as soon as you run or even just spin the shaft the rate changes. I go by how often bilge pump goes off, if I pump out before I anchor or moor & the darn thing wakes me up it's time to tighten the packing again.
Also depends on the packing you use
I believe Hunter (newer models) uses a type of packing that doesn't require any drip. This topic has been round and round here, but the new stuffing box I bought from Hunter says it has dripless packing.
I believe Hunter (newer models) uses a type of packing that doesn't require any drip. This topic has been round and round here, but the new stuffing box I bought from Hunter says it has dripless packing.
Packing
I have always heard the 3 to 6 per minute, and seems to work for me. As for the dripless, they are great unless they fail. You can stuff almost anything into a packing gland and at least slow it down. Anyone had a dripless fail and try to slow it down. From what I hear, if a dripless fails, you are in deep doo doo. I think I will stay with a regular packing gland.
I have always heard the 3 to 6 per minute, and seems to work for me. As for the dripless, they are great unless they fail. You can stuff almost anything into a packing gland and at least slow it down. Anyone had a dripless fail and try to slow it down. From what I hear, if a dripless fails, you are in deep doo doo. I think I will stay with a regular packing gland.
Whats to fail
On a Pss seal that there isnt on a conventional packing seal ? Theres hose and clamps on either . I choose a Pss and to have a dusty bilge .
On a Pss seal that there isnt on a conventional packing seal ? Theres hose and clamps on either . I choose a Pss and to have a dusty bilge .
What type packing is the issue
As someone else mentioned, it depends on what kind of packing you have. The slightly more expensive teflon impregnated stuff allows you to tighten the gland as much as you want to stop the dripping without scoring the shaft so it is essentially a dripless shaft without the disadvantages of the bellows-type dripless system. Don
As someone else mentioned, it depends on what kind of packing you have. The slightly more expensive teflon impregnated stuff allows you to tighten the gland as much as you want to stop the dripping without scoring the shaft so it is essentially a dripless shaft without the disadvantages of the bellows-type dripless system. Don
Gore GFO packing
I've been using the gore packing for the last year and set it to where it hardly ever drips, even with the shaft turning. It doesn't drip at all when the shaft isn't turning. The box stays cool and there have been no problems.
I've been using the gore packing for the last year and set it to where it hardly ever drips, even with the shaft turning. It doesn't drip at all when the shaft isn't turning. The box stays cool and there have been no problems.
Add to this Gore
I wrote this a few years ago. http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-stuffing-box.html
I wrote this a few years ago. http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-stuffing-box.html
Drips, what drips?
My condolences to anyone who puts up with a dripping packing gland. I can’t help getting on the PSS bandwagon again. I insist on an absolutely dry boat with no condensation, mold or mildew. What’s the preferred drip rate of the shaft seal? Any drip on my boat is considered a LEAK. I remember looking in the bilge of an inboard powered boat years ago and seeing 6 inches of water. I asked the salesman what was wrong with this new boat that it had water in it. “Oh, that’s normal, he said, from the packing gland and such.” I’m glad we’ve reached a time when there are solutions to this kind of thing. I’ve heard the opinions that when a conventional packing gland fails, you can stuff rags in it or something to slow the flow of water. I don’t see any reason I can’t stuff rags into a PSS seal (stern tube) if it fails either. Any way, congratulations to those using dripless packing material, like Gore, if you have achieved dryness with that method.
My condolences to anyone who puts up with a dripping packing gland. I can’t help getting on the PSS bandwagon again. I insist on an absolutely dry boat with no condensation, mold or mildew. What’s the preferred drip rate of the shaft seal? Any drip on my boat is considered a LEAK. I remember looking in the bilge of an inboard powered boat years ago and seeing 6 inches of water. I asked the salesman what was wrong with this new boat that it had water in it. “Oh, that’s normal, he said, from the packing gland and such.” I’m glad we’ve reached a time when there are solutions to this kind of thing. I’ve heard the opinions that when a conventional packing gland fails, you can stuff rags in it or something to slow the flow of water. I don’t see any reason I can’t stuff rags into a PSS seal (stern tube) if it fails either. Any way, congratulations to those using dripless packing material, like Gore, if you have achieved dryness with that method.
Jon W - I disagree
The last time I had trouble with a 'shaft seal' was half way to Bermuda and almost nothing that we tried would stem the flow (at a few 'gallons per minute) until we cut some hose and built a 'sleeve' around the whole shaft seal and prop shaft, etc. to 'stem the flow'. I have to tell you its not nice laying in water up to your ears trying to fiddle futz with a system that when it fails, fails catastrophically. When you make an 'emergency repair' on a shaft seal it usually means that you can no longer use the engine !!!!!!!!! Give me an old fashioned stuffing box .... you can jam buttered string or shoe laces into it in a pinch ... and then soon be on your way again. KISS. <g>
The last time I had trouble with a 'shaft seal' was half way to Bermuda and almost nothing that we tried would stem the flow (at a few 'gallons per minute) until we cut some hose and built a 'sleeve' around the whole shaft seal and prop shaft, etc. to 'stem the flow'. I have to tell you its not nice laying in water up to your ears trying to fiddle futz with a system that when it fails, fails catastrophically. When you make an 'emergency repair' on a shaft seal it usually means that you can no longer use the engine !!!!!!!!! Give me an old fashioned stuffing box .... you can jam buttered string or shoe laces into it in a pinch ... and then soon be on your way again. KISS. <g>
I've always read less is better !
I use teflon impregnated flax, tighten up the packing gland until it doesn't drip, then start the engine and check for one to two drips a minute, maximum. I've been doing this for 17 years on my Hunter Vision 32 and have never had an issue. Shaft is still in good shape, and I get minimal water in the bilge. Water does NOT have to drip while the engine is off. What are you trying to lubricate when the shaft isn't turning? One to two drips a minute while the shaft is turning is more than enough lubrication to keep from scoring the shaft. IMHO, Mike
I use teflon impregnated flax, tighten up the packing gland until it doesn't drip, then start the engine and check for one to two drips a minute, maximum. I've been doing this for 17 years on my Hunter Vision 32 and have never had an issue. Shaft is still in good shape, and I get minimal water in the bilge. Water does NOT have to drip while the engine is off. What are you trying to lubricate when the shaft isn't turning? One to two drips a minute while the shaft is turning is more than enough lubrication to keep from scoring the shaft. IMHO, Mike
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