Drilling stainless rail

[Seattle Scott]

I bought a couple of handrails that will thru bolt on the sides of my dodger, thru the 1" tubing. So how do I "set" the bit so it won't walk all over the place, when drilling for the treaded studs. I can't smack it with a punch since the frame will flex.Scott

 

[Rick Webb]

Jig

You can make one with a scap of 2X4 and clamp it onto the rail

 

[Larry Long]

Use the correct bit

Use a "split point" bit. When you go to your hardware store if you look closely some of them will say split point. They won't walk and they will also drill better because only the better bits will be worth the manufacturer going to the trouble of sharpening with the split point. When I put handrails on my bimini I used Jaw Slides for mounting because I didn't want to weaken the frame by drilling holes in it. I can stand on my bimini without damaging it (192 pounds).

 

[Don12364]

An Automatic Centre Punch

Scott,Two suggestions:-Try an automatic centre punch. This is a small steel tool rather like a thick pencil which you press onto the workpiece until it gives a loud click and impresses the metal with the necessary indentation.Alternatively can you find a short piece of scrap tubing and punch it and drill it? Then saw it into two halves, clamp these over your tubing and drill through the pilot hole.Remember stainless 'work hardens' so you need a slow speed drill, plenty of oil and a very firm pressure so that the drill always cuts metal. If you allow it to just rub on the surface the metal will get hot and harden to a point where it is harder than the drill. Then the drill will need resharpening and the hole will be much more difficult to drill.

 

[Doug_Meyer]

use a proper drill bit

Stainless steel is hard, and as said earlier it work hardens if it heats up. Usually a regular carbon steel drill bit won't do the job efficiently, if at all. Get a cobalt steel bit, especially if you plan on drilling more than one hole.

 

[higgs]

Good advice already and here is a little more

All suggestions posted are very good. I use a pointed punch and a hammer to give me a starting point. When you're drilling, realize that what you are really doing is chipping away at the hole. You are not looking for those long strands you would get going into aluminum. Buy two bits.

 

[robert taylor]

dremmel tool

you could use a dremmel tool to grind a depression or a flat. there are a lot of different bits for a dremmel. what ever you try, try it on a scrap piece first and perfect the approach. also, get a good cutting fluid to keep the drill bit cool and lubricated while drilling.

 

[Ross]

A sharp file

will do the job of making a small flat on the round tube. When drilling stainless steel it is important to maintain a steady pressure on the drill, if you allow the drill to just rub without enough pressure to cut a chip then the surface will work harden. Often it is easier to drill a small hole first as a pilot hole and then go to your finish size. A little spray lubricant also will help. Stainless steel is not so much hard as it is tough and it will make long, very sharp chips. Be careful not to try to clear the chips when the drill is turning.

 

[Rich]

Cobalt bits essential

I'll emphasize what Doug said, because I've been drilling a lot of stainless pieces lately and for most pieces only a cobalt bit is hard enough to penetrate. Even with cobalt if you use a tiny bit to start the hole you may still break the bit (they're usually only coated, after all). Titanium bits are pretty hard, but stainless is just a bit harder and you may not even get the hole started with them.

 

[Seattle Scott]

Thanks All

I'll print the thread and do a "bit" of shopping.

 

[Paul]

stainless steel rail

to your question about drilling stainless steel, go to your machine shop supply store and purchase 2 quarter inch centering bits, tape this ss tubing with tuck tape, use a center drill - it will not run so you can drill with confidence, take a good quality standard bit, reduce the angle back cut the cutting edge, and do not over speed the bit. use WD 40 or light oil. that should take care of your problems.

 

[Ed Hanley14076]

Drilling stainless

I just finished modifying my bimini which required 8 holes in 1" stainless. I used the edge of a small triangular file to make a small "X", followed by a 1/8" bit for a pilot hole, and #28 final. Neither bit had to deal with much of the hard ss surface. The bits were far from new and did all 8 holes before going back in the drawer.

 

[scott]

Split tip cobalt worked like a charm

did 1/8th pilot holes, no walking with the bit, and then did the final 5/16th with another cobalt bit. Thanks. Scott

 

[Morrie]

I drilled a bunch

I recently drilled 40 holes in 1" stainless tubing. All were for #10 machine screws to through bolt. I drilled them all with the same carbon steel bit without sharpening. I'm lucky that my dad is a retired tool and die maker so I ask him to help me. I said "Don't we need some kind of special bit or something?" He said "na, this'l work fine." The tricks were: We used a drill press (not always possible on things attached to your boat). We started with a light tap with a sharp center punch, then used a center drill first, and finally the regular high quality carbon steel bit. We kept it cool with a bit of three-in-one oil. The rest is the same as a few of you have already said (slow drill speed, steady pressure (not too heavy but not too light), and make sure it doesn't get hot. I have since drilled a couple the same way only with my trusty 19.2 volt battery operated Sears drill motor on slow speed. Worked fine. You probably wouldn't have to be quite so careful with a cobalt bit.